Over the years I’ve used gel stain on many home maintenance and furniture makeover projects, and I’ve learned a lot! Gel stain is an amazing tool for reviving wood, but it can be tricky to use if you’re not prepared. Because of that, I am sharing my most helpful gel stain tips and tricks that will make a difference in the quality of your gel stain projects.
This post contains affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.
What is Gel Stain?
Since you’re visiting this post, you probably already know what gel stain is. But, just in case you don’t, gel stain is a thick stain that sits on top of the wood finish instead of penetrating the wood like regular stain does.
It is awesome to use on previously-stained wood, as it allows you to change the color of the wood and refinish it without stripping it to bare wood. For example, at my old house, I refinished my front door with gel stain, and in my new house, I’ve refinished stair railings, stair treads, and a china cabinet top. Most recently, I painted my front door with gel stain to make it look like wood!
Gel stain can also be used on raw wood or unfinished wood, but you’ll need to take some extra steps, which I’ll fill you in on below!
Why Use Gel Stain?
In my opinion, the main reason why you would use gel stain instead of traditional stain is if you’re changing the color of wood that’s previously been stained. It is easy to re-stain wood with gel stain, but requires a lot more work to re-stain wood with traditional penetrating wood stain.
If you are staining raw wood, I personally would use penetrating stain as it is less expensive than gel stain and gives a better finish on raw wood than gel stain. I personally do not like how dark gel stain looks on raw wood.
Gel Stain Tips and Tricks
OK, enough of the background info! Let’s get down to the best gel stain tips and tricks, which I’ve compiled over the last several years of working with gel stain on various projects.
Wear gloves while working with gel stain.
You do not want to get gel stain on your hands. I repeat, you do not want to get gel stain on your hands! It is sticky and difficult to get off of your skin. Because of that, make sure to wear rubber gloves or disposable latex gloves while applying gel stain!
What is the best way to apply gel stain?
For large swaths of wood (like a tabletop), I like to use stain pads to apply gel stain. Stain pads allow you to cover a large area of wood while maintaining a lot of control over the application.
For smaller areas, foam brushes are my gel stain applicator of choice. Foam brushes are great because they’re disposable, and gel stained brushes are a mess I personally would not want to clean up. Foam brushes also apply gel stain evenly and don’t leave brushstrokes in the finish.
How long do I leave gel stain on before wiping off excess?
Make sure to read the directions on the gel stain can, as it will tell you how long to leave on the gel stain before wiping off.
Generally, I wait around 3 minutes before wiping off.
If you wipe off too soon, you will not see a difference in wood color.
If you wait too long to wipe off, the gel stain will start to dry and will become very difficult to remove.
How do I get the right shade or color of gel stain?
Generally speaking, it is MUCH easier to use gel stain to achieve a darker wood color on a previously finished piece of wood than it is to get a lighter color.
Layering coats of gel stain (per manufacturer directions), will result in a more opaque finish that is darker and shows less of the woodgrain. This type of finish looks more like paint than stain.
Also, you can layer different colors of gel stain, or mix different colors of gel stain, to achieve custom shades. This is especially useful if you’re trying to color match an existing wood tone.
How do I fix areas of gel stain that have dried too quickly?
If you have gel stain that has started to get tacky before you were able to wipe it off, dip a rag in mineral spirits and apply a little bit to the problem area. The excess gel stain should come up easily. Once the area has dried, recoat with gel stain and wipe off within the proper timeframe.
Be careful not to apply gel stain to areas where the gel stain was not removed with mineral spirits or you will create an uneven finish.
If the gel stain has totally dried, sand it off and start the process over again.
Do I need to sand before applying gel stain?
For previously finished wood, yes, you need to sand before applying gel stain. Generally, you need to sand enough to scuff up the existing finish and make the surface even. You DO NOT need to sand down to bare wood. This is what makes using gel stain an advantage on previously finished wood.
For raw wood, yes, you also need to sand before applying gel stain. This will open up the grain and allow the gel stain to create an even richer and more even color.
Do I need to use Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner with Gel Stain?
If you’re applying gel stain to previously stained wood, you probably do not need to use pre-stain wood conditioner. You may consider it if your wood piece, once sanded, seems uneven or damaged. The wood conditioner will not hurt anything but can only help.
If you’re applying gel stain to raw wood, you absolutely need to use pre-stain wood conditioner! Pre-stain conditioner helps prevent blotchy absorption and/or patchy spots in your finish. As I said earlier, I wouldn’t use gel stain on raw wood, but if you are doing it for some reason, make sure to use a pre-stain conditioner first!
Should I seal or topcoat gel stain?
Yes! You should definitely seal or topcoat gel stain projects.
Once dry, gel stain has a naturally “glossed” look, which may lead some to believe it does not need to have a topcoat applied. However, it really must be protected with polyurethane or some other “tough coat” or “performance topcoat,” in order to give it the protection it needs.
I like to use fast-drying polyurethane or this performance topcoat for indoor surfaces, and Spar Urethane for outdoor surfaces like doors.
***
Those are my top gel stain tips and tricks, and I hope they help you achieve a finish that you love! Let me know if you have any to add. I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!
-Bre
Loft Boarding says
Thanks for the informative article on gel stain! I especially appreciate the tips on using a pre-stain conditioner and sealing the finished product. I’m also interested in learning more about how to choose the right applicator for different types of projects. Have you ever written a post about that?
Bre says
Hi! Thank you! I haven’t written a post like that, but I will add it to the list!
Kimberly D. says
Does it matter whether you use oil based or water based wood conditioner before applying gel stain? Which is preferred?
Sonya Pontack says
Question please,
Our molding stain and sealed with polyurethane in a old fashion brown. We want to change to a grey stain. Can we use gel stain with just a light sanding then reseal with polyurethane??
Bre says
Hi! It’s typically pretty hard to change the color that dramatically with gel stain alone. You could try it in a small section, but my hunch is that you’ll probably need to paint the molding gray, and then run a coat of gray gel stain over it to give it the wood finish look again. A lot of work . . .
Angela says
I’ve been doing a lot of research on gel stain so that I can stain an antique pine door that has been very resistant to traditional stain. The guys at general finishes suggest a “slip coat” of mineral spirits on raw wood to help the stain glide on easier and not get too sticky too fast. I’m crossing my fingers on this one. It took me days to get all the coats of paint off of the door. I don’t want to screw this up!
Tina says
Amateur here, so I really appreciate your thorough explanations. But I do wonder why some people advocate applying gel stain and letting it dry, then adding more layers to achieve their perfect shade, while others apply and then wipe off the excess before it dries? What is the difference in the end result? What would you say is the best practice?
Bre says
Hi, Tina! This is a great question and I think it depends on the finished look that you’re after! If you leave the stain on there to dry totally and add more on top, you’ll get an very opaque finish closer to paint than stain. Conversely, if you are wiping off the excess, it will look more like stain. One thing to note is that if you do not wipe off excess stain, it could have a tough time drying properly, and it will definitely take longer to dry than if you were to remove the excess. I hope this helps answer your question! Thanks for stopping by!
Nydia says
On maple bare wood I’m using gel stain because I tried penetrating oil based stains and it resulted in blotchiness. I used a pre conditioner.
Any advice in preparation . I have sanded, do I need a primer?
Bre says
Hi, Nydia! Yes – on bare wood definitely use prestain conditioner before applying gel stain. It will make all the difference in the world! I just did this on my front staircase. It’s a must!
Katie T's Home says
Hi Bre! Thanks for the info! These tips helped me on a DIY farmhouse headboard project and it came out great! I actually mixed acrylic paint with the gel stain to achieve a lighter color. Thanks again 🙂
https://katietshome.com/creative-diy-headboard-makeover-idea/
Bre says
Hi, Katie! Thank you so much! I can’t wait to check out your headboard. Going there now!!!
Angie Perry says
My project begins with a new smooth fiberglass entry door that has a headboard pattern in the middle. Wasn’t my choice, it was what I got stuck with. I would like to use minwax aged oak and because it doesn’t have the wood grain look to it, I’m nervous about staining it all together. Correct me if I’m wrong, I was thinking of using a foam or rag to put the gel stain on with and after a 2-3 minutes, wipe it off with a clean rag. ? I don’t want a dark color. I’m trying to reach a soft light color with the aged oak. Any suggestions? Thanks
Bre says
Hi, Angie! I think my blog post on how to “paint” a door to look like wood is just what you need! Check this out: https://averageinspired.com/2020/08/how-to-paint-a-door-to-look-like-wood.html
Mary says
How soon can you apply topcoat? Oil based gel coat and water based poly.
Bre says
Hi! The product should give you a minimum time before you can apply it, but generally the gel stain needs to have no stickiness left to it.
virginia says
Hi, after sanding my “finished” dresser just to the dulling point, I gel stained it with a couple of coats to even the finish, but am not happy with the shine. I was going to apply a fast drying polyurethane MATTE clear coat. Will that dull it a little? Option: Could I lightly sand with 220 b4 applying matte clear coat? Thank you,
Bre says
Hi! Yes, the matte poly should help that out!!
Cassie says
I plan on using honey gel stain on a cherry piece of wood . Do I need to sand it down first ? How difficult do you think it will be to achieve the honey color ?
Bre says
Hi, Cassie- well, unfortunately it is really tricky to take a dark piece of wood like cherry to a lighter color. If you try it, you’ll definitely need to sand it down to raw wood first. Simply putting gel stain over the cherry finish isn’t going to change the color. Also, if you do sand it down, I think you’ll prefer using regular stain instead of gel stain. It’s easier to use on raw wood. I’m not sure how that will end up looking given the red undertones in the wood, so you should test it in an inconspicuous spot first. Good luck!
Mari says
Hi!!
Love this post very helpful! I have a question, I put two coats on of gel stain, on the last coat I was wiping off excess and there is lint everywhere. What do you recommend for this? Should I sand down completely and start over?
Bre says
Hi, Mari – oh no! That is such a bummer!! OK I would try a little bit of mineral spirits over those spots to hopefully remove the dust and lint. Wipe that off with a lint-free cloth. Hopefully the finish will look okay, but if not, you can reapply some gel stain to those areas. Good luck!
Louis says
Hi I am going to tour h some raw wood and after sanding the burnt wood what is a good gel stain to use
Because once stained the wood grain will be exposed and show a lot of characters
Bre says
Hi! I actually wouldn’t use the gel stain for this type of application. I find that regular stain is much better on raw wood, and that gel stain is better for wood that already has a coating on top. Good luck!
Avery Rush says
Thank you SO MUCH for this post – the most helpful I’ve found yet! I have a question. We have golden oak cabinets that I plan to “re-color” with gel stain. The cabinets have a pronounced tiger stipe grain that I don’t want to exaggerate with stain. After a quick sand to scuff the surface, I can apply pre stain conditioner to prevent that? Then apply stain to desired effect and as a final coat, could I use Minwax’s wipe on polyurethane? Or do you think brushing it on would be better? Could I use paste wax instead of poly? Are there any water-based options for this entire process? I am familiar with using many of these products, but before I start this big cabinet project, I want to be sure of what I’m doing (eeeek!). Any advice would be super helpful. Thank you!
Rita says
The project is to Refresh a Danish Modern side chair of teak with a rope seat. My Grandgirl spilled pasta sauce on the rope seat and when cleaning the rope color is now uneven.
What are your thoughts on cleaning again with mineral spirits and then applying a few coats of gel stain?
Lorie J Hostetler says
Hi! I will start this project next week on my front door. What kind of sand paper did you use? Also could you close your door at night?
Thank you!
Lorie
Bre says
Hi, Lorie! I used 220 grit. I hope your project turns out well!!
Cindy says
Have you ever used gel stain on laminate? I want to use gel on my laminate stairs. I’m getting new floors that are darker.
Cindy says
Have you ever used gel stain on laminate? I’m replacing my floors but my stairs are lighter. It’s very expensive to do the stairs too. They are in excellent condition but aren’t real wood. I’ve read some people use primer first but most just sand and stain. Any advice?
Bre says
Hi, Cindy! I’m sorry, but I haven’t used it on laminate. I’m not sure if/how the adhesion would be for that. Wish I could be of more help!
Susan says
I want to do this on a 1960 MCM door I just purchased. It has a 1″ hole drilled through the door about deadlock hole. I need to fill the hole and worry about it being obvious that it has been filled. Do you have a filler suggestion and recommendation on how to get it to blend?
Bre says
Hi! Ugh, it’s always tricky with filler! I really think your best bet would be to fill the hole, paint the filler the same color as the wood of the door that you’re staining over, trying to do a faux grain to blend in with the rest of the door, and then using the gel stain on top. It would be a labor of love. . .
An lee s says
My home had an old beat up worktop in the garage …as a quick fix up I used a small can of dark gel stain, did a wonderful job, looks almost new, although I noticed it remained a bit sticky for a few days …so glad I found gel stain! Ann
Bre says
Hi, Ann! That’s awesome!! So glad it freshened it right up!
Tim says
I have one question and one comment…
The question: Should I sand the gel stained wood before applying polyurethane?
The comment: Poplar does not absorb penetrating stains readily and you will likely get a blotchy, uneven coloring. For this reason, it is best to use a gel stain even if the poplar has never been stained.
Bre says
Hi, Tim! Regarding the question: I never sand it before applying the poly. I am always worried about messing up the finish. Regarding the comment – this is great to know. Thank you!!
Brenda says
Do you happen to know if gel stain can be applied over chalk paint? I plan on layering a dark brown over a taupe color chalk paint. then apply dark grey stain. I appreciate any advice you could give.
Bre says
Hi, Brenda – yes you can do this! I’d suggest doing some searches on YouTube for a video tutorial of how best to do this. Good luck!
Lori says
Gel stain is awful!!!!! It’s been a nightmare!!! I did have to completely strip my cabinets …..it takes forever to dry and I hate waiting!!!! I do like the outcome but I would say gel stain isn’t for a quick weekend redo!!!!
Bre says
Hi, Lori – oh no!!! I’m sorry you had so many problems. I hate it when projects go like that. So frustrating! I’m glad you got a great end result though.
carlene atkins says
Anne i applied one coat of gel stain, looks great. I have found a few rough places do i need to sand over before i use topcoat.
Kimberly King says
I would like to know this answer to because I have the same problem
Bre says
Oh my gosh, I am sorry that I missed the original commenter’s question completely! OK so the answer is “it depends.” I hate to be vague, but how rough are we talking? If it’s minor, then the multiple coats of poly should smooth things out. If it’s pretty rough, your best bet is to very gently sand, apply a small amount of gel stain to that area only, and then topcoat. Good luck!
Anne says
Used gel stain on nightstand. 2 wks later applied Polycrylic & it goes on like water on glass. Not adhering properly? Dried quickly but looks the same. Both are Minwax. Please advise.
Bre says
Anne, I’m so sorry you’re having this problem! That is something I’m not familiar with. I think you should call Minwax’s customer service to see if they can help. I am really sorry!
Carol says
Wish I would have read this years ago before I started using Gel stain. I love gel stain! Have used it on
Dining tables, kitchen cabinets and consoles. Yes gloves are a must!
It’s extremely difficult to get it off your hands or anything! Lesson learned the hard way. Sponge brushes are best and just throw them away. (Get a Dollar stores)
I put the gel I’m using in a small Tupperware and close up when done or take a break. Find that gel stain
doesn’t store very well unless in the can and tightly sealed. Can’t store in the Tupperware for a long
period of time.
Bre says
Carol – I’m glad you agree with the tips! Also good to know that it should definitely be stored in the can. Thanks!
Terri Castonzo says
Hi my. Daughter bought me a real wood table & it’s a year old!! I don’t know what happened but there was a natural stain & it looked like it was getting larger on its own! I looked at Google & they said to use alcohol & water equal parts it didn’t work please don’t laugh I’m a senior I took a picture of it can I send it to you?
Joanna says
Using gel stain for the first time on floating shelves. I’m a total rookie and wish I would have come across your post before I started. First I applied wood conditioner then applied my first coat with a paper towel thinking it would be similar process as regular wood stain. I was totally wrong about that, I know now! All four shelves are different colors and have streaks. It’s been 2 hours since I’ve finished, would you recommend me just sanding them
all down and starting over again?
Bre says
Hi, Joanna! Oh man, I’m sorry! I know that’s frustrating but they will turn out great in the end! Before you sand them all down, you could try applying another coat of gel stain to one of the shelves to see if that evens out the colors and streaks. Sometimes you can do some good blending with gel stain, but it could result in a more opaque finish than you’re looking for. If you try one one and don’t like it, you could sand all and start over. If you’re pressed for time and don’t want to wait to see how that works, your best bet probably is to sand and repeat the conditioning and staining process. GOOD LUCK!!! 🙂
Julia says
I am currently researching stains and sealants for my front door refinishing project. I have really appreciated your findings and recommendations! Thank you!
Bre says
Hi, Julia – that’s awesome! Thanks so much for letting me know. Best of luck with your project!
Diane says
I have sanded my oak bannister down to bare wood. Do you recommend using a wood conditioner before either gel stain or regular stain? Thanks for the great tips.
Bre says
Hi, Diane! Yes, definitely use a wood conditioner before putting down regular stain. It helps so much!! As for gel stain – I don’t recommend using it on bare wood. It is a much more difficult application. Good luck with your project!