DIY

Cozy Cottage Bathroom with Vintage Charm

April 17, 2025 by Bre 1 Comment

A dated lake cottage bathroom gets a cozy makeover with vintage charm.

Although our lake cottage is teeny tiny (around 700 square feet), one of the reasons we chose it is because it has two bathrooms.

Neither is luxurious, but the good thing is that neither was in bad shape or terribly ugly, either!

With some elbow grease, paint, and new accessories, I was able to infuse the main bathroom with some personality and a bit more functionality, too! And it was all on a pretty low budget, which makes it even more impressive (I think).

I’m excited to show to to you and hear what you think!

The Cottage Bathroom Before The Makeover

This main bathroom is right off the living area, and it’s visible from that room.

This is the main bathroom in the lake cottage. It was dated and needed a refresh to make it feel like a pretty but cozy cottage bath.

Its main features were an interesting tile pattern in the shower, a medicine cabinet that was held together with duct tape, and a laminate vanity and over-the-toilet cabinet.

Painting the Builder-Grade Vanity

The vanity was in great shape, but it was not the nicest vanity in the world. The sides were like a sticker – they were not wood veneer like the cabinet fronts.

This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please read my disclosure policy. In addition, some items were generously gifted to me by Lowe’s and Moen. Thank you to those companies for their support!

I cleaned the vanity with Krud Kutter (my favorite pre-paint cleaner), scuff sanded it, and then painted with two coats of my favorite one-step paint.

(In between coats I started to disassemble the medicine cabinet, too!)

I used Heirloom Traditions in Spruce for this vanity, and I LOVE it. It’s a deep blue green shade that looks really sophisticated.

Because the paint is fast drying and doesn’t require a topcoat, I was able to finish the vanity in just a few hours.

Color Drenching the Walls, Ceiling, and Trim

Once my husband was able to come down here with me, he finished up the medicine cabinet and vanity light removal.

When he got that down, we found that the light wiring wasn’t actually centered over the vanity. Great. Another project. Womp womp.

I filled the holes left behind by the medicine cabinet, washed the walls, and got to painting.

I chose Wedgewood Gray by Benjamin Moore, but I had it mixed in Behr paint to save some cash.

I painted the walls, ceiling, trim, and over-the-toilet cabinet all the same color to make it feel extra cozy in here. The designer-types call this color drenching. And apparently it’s great in a small bathroom- from what they tell me.

At this point I was sick of painting and my neck hurt from painting the ceiling, so I decided to put up the new mirror to make me feel better about this bathroom.

Although we need all the storage we can get in here, I couldn’t find a medicine cabinet I love, so I chose a pretty wood mirror instead. I liked the soft wood tone and scalloped corners of this mirror, and when I hung it up I felt so much better about this space!

Changing the Vanity Light and Adding Cottage-Style Details

We came back another day for my husband to move that light box. We also swapped the shower head and added a towel bar under the over-the-toilet cabinet so we’d have a place to hang hand towels.

Then I decided to add the CUTEST scalloped wood trim to the bottom of the cabinet over the toilet.

I really prefer shelves over a toilet, but we had to keep this cabinet. We need the storage! So I figured I’d at least infuse a little of my love for scallops in here! (Check out the adorable DIY scallop shelf I built for our primary bedroom at the cottage!)

My husband walked me through how to hang the vanity light (spoiler alert: it was much easier than I thought it would be), and it only took me buying three lights to finally settle on this brass two-bulb vanity light.

I love how the brass/gold adds more warmth to contrast the cool paint colors and the chrome fixtures.

Then I did a bunch of little things like adding new mother of pearl cabinet knobs, hanging a pretty plaid shower curtain, displaying thrifted art that I’ve been stockpiling, and hanging up cute gingham hand towels (that will only be used for pictures and when we have guests – IYKYK!).

Changing the Faucet

Finally, I had the privilege of partnering with Moen for a video on Instagram, and I changed a faucet for the very first time!

It wasn’t the easiest project, but it wasn’t too awful either. I needed some help from my husband to get the supply lines loosened and then also reconnected at the end. I made a lot of weird faces during the process.

But the swap from that builder-grade faucet to this high-arc chrome stunner actually made a huge difference in here!

The Cozy Cottage Bathroom is Complete

In the end, I’m super happy with how this budget bathroom refresh turned out!

I think I succeeded in giving it some style without going overboard.

Even though all of the “bones” in here are exactly the same, it feels totally different.

Thank you for checking it out and seeing how my hard work came together!

Shop the Bathroom | Items I Used Here

In case it’s helpful, here’s a list of the products I used to bring together this cozy cottage bathroom style.

Thanks for visiting! Be sure to let me know what you think of this makeover or ask me any questions in the comments!

How to Hide The Side of a Refrigerator: DIY Magnetic Fridge Panel

January 29, 2025 by Bre 5 Comments

If you’re looking for a way to hide the side of a refrigerator that doesn’t involve building cabinetry around it, you might like this creative idea for disguising a fridge! It uses paint and magnetic panels you can make yourself!

Since we moved into this house, the oversized refrigerator has really bothered me. It is enormous and sticks out like a sore thumb against the rest of the kitchen.

Back in 2020 and 2021 when I painted the kitchen cabinets, replaced the countertop and backsplash, and made some other cosmetic modifications like disguising the soffits and converting the kitchen desk to pull out trash, I should have tackled the refrigerator.

But . . . I am a lifetime member of the 95% complete club, so I left it as-is. LOL.

Fast forward to January 2025 and I finally decided to do something about this behemoth of a refrigerator. Something that did not require me to rip out the cabinets above the fridge and build an enclosure.

I can’t wait to show you my solution!

Supplies Used to Hide Refrigerator

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

Refrigerator Painting Supplies

Krud Kutter Prepaint Cleaner
Orbital sander with 120 grit sandpaper
Stix Adhesion Primer
Benjamin Moore Advance Paint (satin)
Paint roller
Paint tray
Paint brush
Dropcloth
Paper towels

Magnetic Refrigerator Panels Supplies

Part 1: How to Paint Refrigerator Sides

This first part of this refrigerator makeover involves my most favorite type of DIY project: paint!

Step One: Clean the Refrigerator

I started by thoroughly cleaning the sides of the refrigerator with Krud Kutter Prepaint Cleaner. I have used regular Krud Kutter for years for painting, and I decided to try this new formula that’s specifically made for painting projects. I’m not sure what the difference is, honestly.

All I can say is “dang!” The sides of my fridge were dirty.

Step Two: Sand the Sides of the Refrigerator

The sides of my refrigerator were pretty glossy, so I used 120-grit sandpaper and my orbital sander to gently scuff sand the sides.

Once I finished sanding, I wiped down the sides to remove the dust.

Step 3: Prime the Fridge Sides

I’m no stranger to painting tricky surfaces that typically aren’t painted (like when I painted tile walls and painted a fireplace hearth), so I know that high-quality adhesion primer is essential for projects like this!

I used Stix Adhesion Primer all over the fridge sides. This primer has not failed me in the past – it really works well!

Step Four: Paint the Refrigerator Sides

The last part of this phase of the project was painting the sides of the refrigerator.

Because there is some texture there, I did the first coat of paint in a matte finish (tinted to the same color as the cabinets) to minimize the look of that texture. BUT THAT WAS A MISTAKE.

The matte paint color was slightly different than the cabinet enamel color, and it was making me crazy.

So, I went over that paint with the exact same paint I used to paint the cabinets: Benjamin Moore Advance in Hampshire Taupe (satin finish). It was perfect! And thankfully the texture really did not show up any more than it did with the matte paint.

Once the paint dried, I pushed the fridge back into place. On this side it looked just fine!

And on the opposite side I thought “well this looks dumb.”

I didn’t like the gap between the bottom of the upper cabinets and the top of the fridge. Instead of the refrigerator blending in with the cabinets, it looked like the same fridge with a painted side.

I mean, I guess it was better than before, but it still wasn’t doing it for me.

Part Two: How to Make Magnetic Fridge Panels

Because this beast of a fridge butts up to the door leading into the dining room, I didn’t have room to build a wall or put in a real panel to hide the fridge.

I also really didn’t feel like doing anything like that, to be honest.

So I decided to try making magnetic trim pieces to frame out the refrigerator and make it look more like part of the cabinetry than before.

Step One: Cut Toe Kick Pieces

I purchased three 4.5″ wide (1/4″ thick) oak cabinet toe kick pieces and got to work! If you have better tools than me, you could cut down plywood to size instead.

I measured the top of the refrigerator from side to side and cut that panel with my circular saw. Don’t be jealous of my sophisticated “buckets as sawhorses” setup.

I then used super hot glue to attach strong magnets to the back of that section of toe kick. I put it in place and it held great!

I then repeated this process for the bottom piece, and then each side. I worked one piece at a time to make sure the measurements were as close as I could get them. I knew I could not caulk any gaps, so I needed these to be as close as possible.

(NOTE: At the request of my husband, I also tried thin magnetic tape. It was not as strong as the magnets I used and it (surprisingly) did not bring the panel pieces any closer to the refrigerator than the magnetic discs did. I do not recommend using magnetic tape.)

Step Two: Prime and Paint the Trim Pieces

I took down each piece of magnetic trim and wrote the placement of each on the backs.

I then primed and painted the trim with the same primer and paint I used on the sides of the refrigerator.

Step Three: Place the Trim

Once dry, I popped the magnetic trim pieces back into place on the side of the refrigerator.

And then, to be extra fancy, I put magnets on the back of a piece of framed art and popped that onto the side of the fridge. I also put magnetic hooks there and hung some decorative serving boards.

The Completed Faux Fridge Panel

The magnetic trim pieces did the trick! They really helped bridge the gap between the upper cabinets and the refrigerator.

The gigantic fridge is no longer the first thing I see when I walk into the house, and that makes me so happy!

It also blends much better now with the kitchen as a whole.

I think if you wanted to take it a step further, you could cut a piece of plywood to the same size as the side of the fridge, attach trim pieces to that (which you could caulk to remove any gaps), and then attach that to the refrigerator with magnets or mounting strips.

Since I like to drag projects out as long as possible, maybe I’ll try that in five years. Wink.

DIY Headboard: Repurpose Cabinet Doors

January 6, 2025 by Bre 4 Comments

If you’re looking for a creative way to upcycle cabinet doors, look no further! This DIY headboard is a great way to repurpose cabinet doors in a stylish way.

The stack of cabinet doors sat in my basement for almost five years.

And about every six months my husband would ask, “do we really need to hang onto these doors?”

I had removed them back in 2020 when I refinished our built-in china cabinet and replaced them with an updated style. But I hung onto them “just in case.”

I promised him I’d think of something to use those old doors for . . . I just didn’t say when.

Well . . . finally . . . at the end of 2024 I had an idea for two of them. I would turn them into a wall-mounted twin headboard for the loft space at our cottage!

I loved this idea because it would help “furnish” a really tricky spot in the cottage (low and slanted ceiling), and hardly cost a thing!

Supplies Used to Create an Upcycled Cabinet Door Headboard

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

Cabinet doors (you can find these at Habitat for Humanity ReStores or salvage shops)
1×2 pine board
Wood glue
Wood filler
Clamps
Mending braces
D-ring hangers
Paint
Screws
Electric sander (220 grit sandpaper)
Drill
Circular saw (or hand saw and miter box)

How I Made a DIY Headboard from Cabinet Doors

I started by cleaning and lightly sanding the cabinet doors with my electric sander and 220-grit sandpaper. I did this to scuff up the existing finish so that the doors would be better prepared for paint.

Next, I figured out that a standard twin-sized headboard is 41″ wide. Two of my cabinet doors together were a little over 39″ wide. So, I put a scrap 1×2 in between them and cut it down to the same height as the doors.

Since I only had this one piece of wood and I was nervous about making a jagged cut with my circular saw, I went the old-fashioned route and cut it by hand with a saw and miter box. It wasn’t the most efficient, but I got a clean cut!

Next, I ran a thin line of wood glue on each side of the 1×2, and pressed it between the cabinet doors. I then clamped it all together in two places.

I also put wood filler in the hardware holes.

Once everything was dry, I flipped it over and attached five-inch mending braces to the back. I’m not sure if this was truly necessary, but I figured it couldn’t hurt in holding everything together.

I should have bought longer braces so that they could be screwed into both sides of the cabinet and the 1×2. Because these were too short to do that, I staggered them, with each being fastened into one cabinet door and the 1×2.

I also attached two large D-ring hangers on the upper back corners. This would allow me to hang the headboard on the wall.

Finally, I flipped the piece back over and painted it with one-step paint that was left over from my kids’ bathroom vanity makeover. With two coats of paint, it was ready to go.

The Finished Cabinet Doors Headboard

I installed anchors in the wall and hung the headboard at the perfect height for this loft bed that rests on a 3″ bed frame. (Can you believe they make bed frames that are so low to the ground?)

I mean, come on! Tell me that is not cute!

I am so glad I saved those cabinet doors all those years. It was definitely worth it (to me, at least – ha!).

Watch Me Build This Headboard! See The DIY Cabinet Doors Headboard Video on YouTube.

This DIY headboard project could easily be modified to accommodate any size bed: with the addition of more cabinet doors and/or wider wood pieces, you could make even a King-size headboard!

Alright, so the big question now is what should I make with the four remaining cabinet doors? Tell me in the comments!

DIY Scalloped Shelf with Hooks

November 5, 2024 by Bre 2 Comments

Learn how to make the cutest wall shelf with hooks! This DIY scalloped shelf with hooks is functional and adorable.

When it comes to home decor, nothing is as sweet as scallops! While I, personally, love scalloped detailing on any piece, I have to use it sparingly. My husband is less of a fan – lol!

That didn’t stop me from making this totally adorable scalloped shelf with hooks for our lake cottage, however.

I knew that this was going to add a much-needed place to hang bags, hats, etc., and it would look perfect in our bedroom.

So I got to work making this piece from scrap wood, and I’m happy to fill you in on how to do it, too!

DIY Scalloped Shelf Supplies

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

1×8 pine board
1×4 pine board
circular object (I used a 6″ round wood cutout)
jigsaw
circular saw
large clamps
brad nailer
1″ brad nails
drill
electric sander
80-grit sandpaper
wood glue
wall hooks & screws (these gold flower wall hooks are the ones shown in this post)
wood stain in color of your choice
tape measure
pencil
Optional: hanging hardware like d-ring hangers

How to Make a DIY Scalloped Shelf with Hooks

You can put together this scalloped wall shelf with hooks in an afternoon! It’s a quick project that goes together easily.

Cut Boards to Size

I wanted this shelf to be 30″ long, so I cut a 1×8 pine board to size with my circular saw.

This board was left over from the DIY floating shelves I hung over the basement dry bar I built earlier this year! I stained it at that time with water-based walnut stain.

Then, I cut down the 1×4 pine board to the same length with the circular saw.

Create the Scallop Edge Detail

On the 1×8 pine board, I used a 6″ round wood cutout to trace semi-circles at the bottom of the board.

I found the center of the board (in this case, 15″) and aligned the left edge of the circle at that 15″ mark. Doing this meant that the center of the board had the upper edge of a scallop.

I then traced to the right of that semi-circle. That gave me another full scallop. And then one more time, which gave me a partial scallop at the end of the board.

I repeated this to the left of center, too.

Once I had the scallops drawn on the board, I set the jigsaw to the maximum depth and cut along that edge to create the scallops on the shelf board.

This looked totally awesome (go me!), but to smooth out the scallops a bit, I used my small electric sander with 80-grit sandpaper to make them even more rounded.

Attach Hanging Hardware (if Using)

I decided to attach d-ring hangers to the back of the wall hook board so that I could hang this on the wall without removing any of the wall hooks (more on that below).

BUT . . . I feel like the d-ring hangers aren’t the ideal method of hanging. When hanging objects on the hooks, the backer board moves around more on the wall than I’d like it to. And since I display things on the top shelf, that’s not ideal.

So, I’m going to re-hang this by removing two hooks, putting wall anchors into the wall where two of the hooks go, and attaching the hooks through the wood backer board into the wall.

If that sounds like too much work, then you could use picture hanging hardware like I did.

Attach the Shelf to the Wall Hooks Board

Next up, attaching the shelf to that hook backer board was easy!

I ran a line of wood glue along the top edge of the hook backer board and I put the 1×4 onto that.

I clamped the pieces together to get that glue to bond well, and then I put about six 1″ brad nails in for extra hold.

Put the Hooks Onto the Backer Board

Finally, I measured where I wanted each of the hooks and drilled pilot holes into the wood.

The adorable gold flower coat hooks I used did not come with mounting hardware, so I found screws that fit their openings and screwed those into the pilot holes.

Then I attached the hooks (kind of like how you attach curtain rod hardware to the wall) and finished this project!

The Finished Scalloped Wall Hooks Shelf

I hung up this shelf in one of the cottage bedrooms and I am in love!

The shelf is the perfect spot to display some decor, and the hooks are a wonderful extra bit of storage for this small room!

Even though it has a lot of femininity to it, I think the stained wood finish helps give it a tiny bit of masculinity, too. (Maybe. Maybe not.)

Leave me a comment below and let me know what you think of it! And, don’t hesitate to ask any questions, too!

DIY Teak Table Restoration: a Roadside Rescue

October 29, 2024 by Bre 5 Comments

I’m sharing my process for a DIY teak table restoration. It’s easy though time-consuming, and totally worth it!

I kept driving by this table on the side of the road, wondering why nobody had scooped it up.

Maybe because it looked to be in pretty rough shape? Maybe because it was too unwieldy to stick in the trunk?

Whatever the reason was, I was glad they didn’t take it! My husband and I brought it home so I could fix it up to take to our cottage where we need another outdoor table.

I planned to sand, stain, and seal it. But as I examined the table, I noticed this gold plaque on the bottom, which read “Kingsley-Bate Genuine Teak Furniture.”

Upon Googling this, I found out that this exact table retails new for $1600! I also found out that my makeover plans were NOT the right plans – ha! Teak wood required a much different approach.

Supplies Needed to Restore Teak Wood Furniture

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

Teak Wood Cleaner
Teak Wood Oil
Chip brushes
Heavy-duty scrub brush
Lint-free rags
Hose
Disposable cup
Gloves
Optional: orbital sander and 80 grit sandpaper

How to Restore Outdoor Teak Furniture

This table was in pretty rough shape. The gray color of the teak, the roughness and deep grooves in the wood, and lichen and moss growing all over make me think it was not well cared for.

Apparently teak is super durable (and that’s why it’s loved for outdoor furniture), so I figured I could get it looking much better than how I found it.

Step One: Clean the Teak

I purchased teak cleaner because this table was . . . disgusting.

I applied the cleaner with a chip brush and let it sit for about fifteen minutes. After that, I scrubbed it in the direction of the grain with a heavy-duty scrub brush.

I was AMAZED at how much junk came off the table, and how the brown tones of the teak wood were already showing through!

I worked in small sections so that the teak cleaner didn’t dry on the wood before I had a chance to scrub it.

After I finished scrubbing, I hosed the table down to rinse off all the debris left behind by the scrubbing process.

Step Two: Let the Teak Dry Completely

Next it was a waiting game. I let the teak dry for over 24 hours before moving on to the next step.

You May Also Like This Post

How to Refinish Outdoor Wood Furniture

Step Three: Lightly Sand (if Necessary)

This teak wood was so weathered that it was very rough and had deep grooves.

Because of this, I decided to gently sand it with my orbital sander and 80-grit sandpaper.

I was very careful not to over-sand, as I read that doing so could prevent the teak oil from saturating the wood. Because of that, many of the grooves remain in the wood, but it is smooth to the touch and will not give splinters!

After sanding, I brushed of all the dust (and there was a lot of it).

Step Four: Apply Teak Oil

This part was SO exciting! I applied a thin coat of teak oil to the wood, and it instantly made it shine!

I again worked section-by-section, and waited about 15 minutes to wipe off any oil that hadn’t sunk into the wood.

After a couple of hours, I applied a second coat of teak oil because I knew this table was VERY thirsty. And, I again wiped off oil that didn’t sink into the wood after fifteen minutes or so.

The Outdoor Teak Table Restored

The teak continued to absorb the oil overnight, and it was ready to go the next day!

I love the blend of browns and grays in this teak wood table. It’s just beautiful and I feel so lucky that it’s mine!

To maintain it going forward, I will apply more teak oil as it starts to look weathered. I do plan to cover it when not in use, so that should help with protecting it, too.

Now I just need to get some chairs and a cute umbrella!

Privacy Screen Planter Box for Deck or Patio: Easy Outdoor Privacy Solution

September 30, 2024 by Bre 4 Comments

If you’re looking for a quick and easy way to add privacy to a deck, patio, balcony, or other outdoor space, this is it! This privacy screen planter box is weather resistant and maintenance-free!

Our lake cottage has an awesome deck, which is one of the things we love most about it. Spending quality time outdoors with the family is pretty much THE reason we wanted a cottage in the first place!

Part of it is really (I mean REALLY) close to our next door neighbors’ patio though. And while they are the loveliest people, we wanted to have a little privacy on the deck and afford them the same on their patio.

I have built a freestanding privacy screen planter box before, so I considered doing something similar here. But, building a similar fence or slat wall would take me too long, and we wanted to be able to enjoy this deck ASAP!

Because of that, I decided to take the easy way out and use all-weather planter boxes and artificial trees to create a green screen on the deck, which looks awesome and functions just how we wanted it to!

Full disclosure: this privacy screen solution cost more than I typically would spend on such a project. BUT – the convenience was worth it to me. And, the fact that it is zero maintenance was also a huge way for me to justify the expense.

How to Set Up an Outdoor Privacy Screen with Planters and Artificial Trees

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

I chose these Veradek all-weather planter boxes because they get amazing ratings online and are rated for use in all weather types: including harsh winters like we have here in Wisconsin.

I also liked that they were very tall and had a box inside the main planter box so that you don’t have to fill the entire thing with dirt or filler. The planter boxes’ height is very helpful for creating a privacy screen that is tall (aka: effective)!

BUY THE EXACT PLANTER BOXES AND ARTIFICIAL TREES I USED

Shop All-Weather Planter Boxes

Shop 5 Foot Artificial Trees (similar to ones shown in post)

Place the Planter Boxes

I started by placing them along the deck railing. These large planter boxes are lightweight and easy to carry – unlike similar ones that are made of corten steel!

I left the drainage holes open so that water can run out, and then I placed a patio paver stone in the base of each planter box. I did this so that they would have some weight and not tip over easily.

Fluff the Artificial Trees

Next, I placed two 5′ artificial evergreen trees in each planter box. These planter boxes could accommodate three faux trees, but I was trying to save some money, so I only did two.

I fluffed out each of the branches and found these fake trees to be actually quite realistic! The variation in colors of the “needles” really helps them look authentic!

These artificial trees are UV treated for outdoor use, but I plan to spray each tree with my favorite artificial plant UV sealer, too, just to be extra safe! I want these to look good for as long as they possibly can!

Fill the Planter Boxes with Soil or Gravel

Once the trees were in each of the planter boxes, I filled in the boxes with soil.

UPDATE: A couple of months later, my husband was able to help me fill the planter boxes with landscaping rocks. This added extra weight, which helped keep the trees from shifting in the strong winds we’ve been having.

In just under one hour, I had a complete wall of privacy. The longest part of this project was breaking down the cardboard boxes after I had everything in place.

I couldn’t be happier with this green screen or privacy screen on my deck. It looks very natural and gives us the buffer we needed between our home and our neighbor’s patio.

It’s also beautiful to look at from inside the cottage!

I think this privacy screen solution would be perfect for a balcony, apartment, anywhere that it’s difficult to grow trees, neighborhoods that don’t allow fences, and more.

It’s also a totally renter-friendly outdoor privacy screen because you can bring it with you when you leave!

Now, a few months after putting this up, I can still say that I love this solution. The artificial trees even look beautiful in the winter!

Let me know if you have any questions in the comment section below. I am always happy to help!