After I painted my kitchen tile backsplash, my husband and I started Part 2 of our kitchen revamp: our DIY kitchen soffit makeover.  Our goal was to disguise the kitchen soffit (the part of the ceiling over the cabinets; sometimes called a ‘bulkhead’ or a ‘fur down’) and make it look more like it is part of the cabinets and less like wasted space. 

I am painting the kitchen cabinets and the soffit the same color to make them blend together (you’ll see the reveal in a few weeks), but this post is intended to show you how this kitchen soffit makeover made our kitchen look better, and how you can do the same! 

Supplies Used for This Kitchen Soffit Makeover

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

Tools Used:

• Miter Saw
• Brad Nailer
• Mallet
• Level
• Tape Measure

Wood Used:

• 2.25″ crown molding
• 1×2 wood
• 1×3 wood
• 1×4 wood

Supplies Used:

• Caulk
• Wood Filler
• Pencil

How to Disguise a Kitchen Soffit

Before I jump in to give you all the details on this project, let me show you the “BEFORE” photo of the kitchen.  This shows the backsplash tile has already been painted, but we hadn’t yet begun making over the soffit.

Over the course of a couple of weekend days we transformed the soffits, using multiple sizes of boards and molding.  Here is the step-by-step!

Step 1: Attach Crown Molding to Top of Soffit

For the first part of our soffit makeover, we installed 2.25″ crown molding at the top of the soffit – connecting the soffit and the ceiling – with the brad nailer.

Because of the steps that came later in this process, we first attached small pieces of 1×2″ wood to the back of each crown molding section.  We did this so that the crown molding would sit flush with the boards we attached to the soffit later in the project.

This means that the crown molding was sitting out farther than the soffit – and that is just what we needed for the next step to look right.

Step 2: Attach 1×3″ Horizontal Boards to Soffit

Next, we cut 1×3″ boards with the miter saw, and attached them directly below the crown molding installed in Step 1, and also on the lower front of the soffit.

Because the crown molding was mounted on the 1×2 pieces, the molding and the 1×3 boards were flush together.  We cut the 1×3 boards with straight cuts at the end of each soffit, and beveled cuts in the inner corner.

Step 3: Attach Vertical 1×3″ Boards to Soffit

Once the horizontal 1×3 boards were in place, we measured the distance between the 1×3’s at every corner, and we cut 1×3″ pieces to attach in the corners.  It was interesting how different the measurements were!  The soffits were definitely not the same size in all spots.

As in Step 2, we cut the outer corners with straight cuts, and did bevel cuts for the inner corner.  We attached the vertical blocks at every corner.

The soffits were already looking better at this point!

Step 4: Attach 1×4″ Boards to Connect Cabinets and Soffit

Finally, we removed the small piece of trim or molding that was at the top of our cabinets and the base of the soffit.  You can see it hanging down in this photo.

We then used the brad nailer to attach 1×4″ boards to the base of the soffit (at the top of the cabinets), so that approximately 1″ of wood extended beyond the base of the soffit.

By having this piece stick out farther than the soffit, it actually made the soffit and the cabinet boxes look like they are the same (or similar) depth, as opposed to the soffit sticking out farther than the cabinets.  It’s a crazy visual trick!

Step 5: Caulk!

So . . . my husband did an incredible job on this soffit makeover, but he is not a carpenter by trade.  Because of that, we had a lot of caulking to do before priming!  

I used Alex Flex caulk because it said it’s the best for molding and trim, but I’m not a caulk expert (bummer!), so I don’t know if this more expensive caulk was truly necessary.

After caulking and priming, I’ve now started painting the cabinets and soffit, and it’s looking SO GOOD!  I don’t have a final painted cabinets makeover to show yet (I hope to finish right around Thanksgiving), but here is a little sneak peek of how this is all coming together!

I really think our attempt to disguise our kitchen soffit is working and making our kitchen look much nicer than it did before!  

I hope this post is helpful to you, too!  As always, let me know if you have any questions or comments!

-Bre

At one point or another, most of us will have spaces in our homes that are in perfectly great condition but not exactly our style.  My kitchen is one of those spaces!  The cabinets, countertops, and backsplash are all in good shape, but the look isn’t what I’m after.  I’m going to overhaul it without a renovation, and I accomplished the first part of the makeover by painting my kitchen tile backsplash.

To some, it might sound crazy to paint a kitchen backsplash!  Tile can be tricky to paint (hello, adhesion issues!), and the kitchen is an especially messy area, which makes cleanable surfaces a must.  However, painting a tile backsplash is such an inexpensive and relatively mess-free way to update a kitchen that it makes a lot of sense. (And I am NOT one to shy away from painting tricky surfaces.  Check out my painted countertop here and my painted marble fireplace hearth here!)

I will show you exactly how to paint a backsplash for a finish that lasts.  My kitchen backsplash is a mosaic of glass and stone tiles, but this method will work on any type of tile.

Supplies Needed to Paint a Kitchen Tile Backsplash

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

• Krud Kutter cleaning spray
• Paper towels
• TSP
• Mixing bucket and rag
• Rubber gloves
• Sandpaper (I used 220 grit)
• Painters tape 
• Multi-surface adhesion primer (I used less than a quart)
• Latex enamel paint (I used less than a quart)
• 2″ angled brush
• 3″ roller with 1/4″ nap roller cover (I used mohair)
• Screwdriver (to remove outlet covers)

How to Paint a Tile Backsplash

You guys know that kitchens are prime spots for messes.  Because of that, I fully advocate for a two-step cleaning process when painting your tile backsplash!  Your paint job is only as good as your prep work, so prep right!

Start by scrubbing the backsplash with Krud Kutter.  Krud Kutter is a non-toxic cleaner that is great at removing grease. 

Once the entire backsplash is clean and dry, gently sand the tiles to rough them up a bit.  I used 220-grit sandpaper on my little hand sander, but you can use plain sandpaper if you don’t have an electric sander.  (PS not sure why my hands are soaking wet in this photo. :-)).

I painted glass and stone tiles, and obviously glass is slippery and benefits from the sanding process more than the stone tiles.  However, even if you’re painting rough tiles, make sure to sand.  It really helps the primer stick better!

Then it’s time for MORE cleaning!  For this very important part of the preparation, mix up a batch of TSP according to the package directions, and wash the tile backsplash again.

It’s a good idea to protect your countertop during this cleaning so that you don’t accidentally damage it.

Once the backsplash is dry, tape off any areas you don’t want paint to get on.  I highly recommend Frog Tape over blue painters tape as I think it is much better at preventing paint seepage.

Remove your outlet faceplates and then you’re ready to begin painting your backsplash!

Start with a multi-surface adhesion primer like the one I used.  I know this primer works because I used it as the primer on my painted marble fireplace hearth, too.  

I used a brush to apply the primer so that I could be sure to get it in all of the grout lines.  You will be so happy if you’re not painting a mosaic backsplash like me, as you will have fewer grout lines to contend with!

The primer will look thin in some areas and will make you think you’ve destroyed your kitchen.  But do not fear: it will be okay once you start painting!

The multi-surface adhesion primer I used is great because it has a fast dry time to topcoat.  After just one hour of drying it is ready for paint!

The paint I used for my painted tile backsplash is the leftover paint from my mirrored built-in makeover.  Although it is labeled as cabinet and trim paint, I used it here because it’s an enamel paint, which means it dries to a hard, durable finish.  I used a semi-gloss finish (color is Manchester Gray), and I think you could even do a gloss finish if you want more shine.

I rolled it on and then went back in with my brush to grout areas that the roller missed.

I applied two coats of paint to the backsplash, let it dry overnight, and then put the outlet covers back on.

What a difference!

It feels calmer to me now.  The tile isn’t competing with the granite (which also has a lot of “movement” as the designer folks say).  

And when I paint the cabinets, it’s going to all come together and give me all the heart eyes and happiness!  (UPDATE: November 2020: I have completed the second part of my kitchen makeover, and am sharing my Kitchen Soffit Makeover / How to Disguise a Kitchen Soffit in this post!  Also, I have started painting and it’s looking AMAZING!  I’m using my tried and true method and planner set out in my DIY Cabinet Painting Pro ebook and guide, which you can learn about at the link!  If you’re thinking of painting your cabinets, this resource will be so helpful to you!)

How to Clean a Painted Tile Kitchen Backsplash

Because I know somebody is going to ask me, I’m going to tell you how to clean a painted tile kitchen backsplash, too!  And I know because I’ve already done it!  (Now that my tile is painted a light color, it shows the food crud much more than it used to.)

For messes that I notice immediately, I wipe them with a soft cloth.

For food that has hardened on somewhat, or grease, I clean with dish soap and a soft rag.

It’s that easy!

Well, I hope that gives you enough information to paint your own tile backsplash, if you’ve been thinking of it!  Let me know what you think of my makeover or if you have any questions in the comments section below.  I’m happy to help!

-Bre

You May Also Like Part 2 of my Kitchen Makeover: How to Disguise a Kitchen Soffit

Our house had a vibrant orange front door, which I actually loved.  But when we repainted the exterior this summer, the orange door wasn’t right.  I decided I wanted a wood front door to coordinate with our wood-look garage door and wood-accent exterior lights, but I did not want to strip and restain the door: too messy!  I became determined to figure out how to paint a door to look like wood so that I could get the wood look without all of the hassle.

FULL DISCLOSURE: I totally messed this up at first!  Because of my mistakes, I probably did not save myself any time and could’ve stripped and re-stained in the same amount of time.  That being said, I perfected the faux wood finish technique and can now share it with you, so it isn’t a total loss!

How NOT To Paint a Door to Look Like Wood (My Mistakes!)

Before we get to the good stuff and how to really achieve a convincing faux wood finish, I HAVE to show you how badly I messed this up the first time around.  I was trying to get a wood finish with orange undertones . . . 

So I applied two coats of gel stain right over the orange paint.  And it was awful – so bad that I could only laugh about how horrible it was! 

Can you believe this?  It was embarrassing to even close the door for anyone passing by to see.  Ha!

OK so take it from me – you cannot paint a door to look like wood with orange paint.  Not gonna work!

How to Paint a Door to Look Like Wood

Now that we’ve gotten THAT out of the way, let me show you how I redeemed myself and actually painted my door to look like wood!  You can read my step-by-step tutorial in this post and watch the video I’ve put together that shows you how this all went down!

Supplies Needed to Paint a Door to Look Like Wood

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

• Flat latex paint in a shade of brown
• Gel stain in the color of your choice (I used this brand and color)
• Varathane Ultimate Spar Urethane
• Stain pads
• 1.5″ or 2″ angled paint brush
• Small artist brushes
• 3″ chip brushes
• Painters tape
• Cardstock or cardboard with a straight edge
• Drop Cloth
• Sandpaper
• **May need primer if your door has never been painted

Step One: Sand and Tape Off Hardware or Remove Hardware

Before you start, make sure to protect your door hardware with painters tape, or to remove it.  

You’ll also want to spread a drop cloth underneath the door to protect surrounding surfaces and the floor beneath.

Then, lightly sand the door to remove any glossy surfaces, and wipe the door clean.

Step Two: Paint the Door Brown

OK so after my orange paint plus gel stain disaster pictured above, I realized that the gel stain wasn’t the problem; the orange paint was.  I went to my basement and found a gallon of flat latex paint in a soft brown shade.  It was left by the previous homeowners and I considered it a gift from God.

I painted over all of my ugly orange mess with the flat latex paint. 

Even my dog looks sad in this photo. 

Thank goodness that ugliness was gone!

**If you’re painting a door that has never been painted, make sure to prime it first!

Step Three: Apply a Coat of Gel Stain to the Entire Door

Once the paint dried, I started applying gel stain right over the paint.  I began by using a 1″ foam brush to spread the gel stain but quickly switched to a stain pad, as it was much easier to get it in all the nooks and crannies. 

For the tight corners I used artist paintbrushes to spread the gel stain. 

Once the whole door was covered in gel stain, I let it sit overnight to dry. It already looked better than it ever did with the orange base color, but it still wasn’t great.

Step Four: Apply a Second Coat of Gel Stain

Here’s where the magic starts to happen.  For this next step, I worked rectangle by rectangle, and then row by row, and then column by column, to create the look of wood grain with gel stain.

I will show you how I did this in a rectangle part of the door.  I started by applying a coat of gel stain in a rectangle with my stain pad, and I got into the corners with the artist brush. 

Then, I took the 3 inch chip brush, and I gently ran it over the flat part of the rectangle, from bottom to top, to remove some of the gel stain and to add a woodgrain pattern to the door. 

I varied how I moved the brush: in some rectangles it was straight down to up, and in others I did a little bit of a curve as you see in woodgrain sometimes. 

I did this “apply gel stain and then remove some of it” process all across the door.  I used thick card stock at the edges of each row or column to create a barrier between the edges of each section, since the woodgrain travels in different directions in these different pieces.  This made the junctions crisp, just like a regular wood door. 

Here you can see the second coat of gel stain and woodgraining process on the entire door, except the outer columns.  The second coat of gel stain is necessary for getting a wood look finish!

Step Five: Seal the Door to Protect the Faux Wood Finish

After I applied the second coat of gel stain to the entire door, I let it sit overnight so that it could totally dry.  Then, I applied three coats of this sealer to the door throughout the course of one day (no sanding in between coats needed).

I let the door dry for the time recommended on the sealer, and in the end, I succeeded at painting my door to look like wood!

It’s hard to believe I was able to fix that disaster I created the first go-round!  

Questions About Painting a Door to Look Like Wood

I feel like there will be some questions about this process, so I’m trying to anticipate them!

Does this process work on metal doors or fiberglass doors?

Yes!  Although my door is wood, you can use the exact same process and products to paint your metal door to look like wood, or to finish your fiberglass to look like wood.  Awesome!

Can you use this process to paint a garage door to look like wood?

Yes!  This exact same process will work to paint a garage door to look like wood.

Can I use gel stain to refinish a wood door that hasn’t been painted?

Yes!  You can, and I’ve done it before! Check out my post on refinishing an exterior door with gel stain for all of the info you’ll need.

Any other questions?  Ask them in the comments section and I will do my best to answer them!

-Bre

Earlier this year I totally transformed my 1970s orange rock fireplace with limewash.  Because that project went so well, I decided to try my hand at a DIY limewash stone exterior makeover of the same 1970s orange rock on the outside of our house, too! (This orange rock musta’ been on sale in 1977!) 

This limewashed stone project was the first part of our outdoor overhaul (which you can see here!), and was an absolutely PERFECT DIY project that significantly updated my home’s exterior!  Limewashing is definitely the easiest way to change the color of a home’s stone facade or rock facade.

What Supplies Do You Need to Limewash Exterior Stone?

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

Listed here are all of the supplies I needed to limewash my exterior stone column.  Some of the items I needed may not be required for your job – especially if your stone or rock is low to the ground.  I have noted those items with an asterisk (*) in the list.  The rest of the items are actually quite inexpensive, so this job can be done on a budget.

• Romabio Classico Limewash (I used two of the one quart containers of the Riposo Beige color to complete my large stone column) (**Limewash comes in many colors.  Make sure to choose a shade that coordinates with your home’s paint colors, roof color, etc.)
• Masonry brush
• 3″ Chip brushes
• Water spray bottle
• Paint stir sticks
• Mixing bucket
• Hose with spray attachment
• Terry shop towels
• Drop cloth or tarp
• *Scaffolding (we rented it from a local rental company for around $180 for a week) or ladder
• *Extension pole
• *Lockjaw Tool Holder

How Do You Limewash Stone Outside?

Limewashing exterior surfaces is actually easier than limewashing interior surfaces because you don’t have to be as careful to protect surrounding surfaces (limewash is all natural so it doesn’t harm plants!), and you don’t really have to clean the surface the way you do inside.

Now that you know that, let me show you how it’s done!

Mixing Limewash

Begin by mixing the limewash for the first section of your project.  I mixed one quart at a time to keep the limewash “liquidy” the entire time I was using it. 

I emptied the one quart container of limewash into my mixing bucket, and thinned it with three cups of water.  When mixing your limewash, check to see what dilution ratio you’d like.  The product contains instructions for how much water to add.  I diluted this batch of limewash more than the limewash I mixed for my fireplace makeover, because I wanted to let a little more of the rock show through. 

I made sure to stir until all the lumps and clumps at the bottom had dissolved.  Once everything’s mixed, it’s time to get to work.

For me, that meant climbing the scaffolding.  I was scared to do this!  When my husband could sense my fear and said (in a nice and caring way) that he didn’t think I was going to be able to do this, I got the jolt I needed and climbed right up.  Once I was up there, I was fine (see – I’m smiling!).

Wetting the Stone or Rock

To start the actual limewashing of the stone, I sprayed a small section of the rock with the garden hose.  As Romabio (the manufacturer) recommends, I worked from top (left to right), on down.

Within each section, I used my water spray bottle to re-dampen stones prior to applying limewash, where necessary.  I found that as I got to the end of a section I’d sprayed with the garden hose, the sun had dried up much of the water.  So, the water bottle was a great way to get the stone wet again to accept the limewash, without wetting it too much with the garden hose.  

Applying the Limewash to the Stone

With a small section wet, I began applying the limewash to the stone.  My scaffolding didn’t get me high enough to reach the top left corner of the stone column, so I used my extension pole and brush extender to reach that corner with the masonry brush. 

I used the masonry brush to cover the large stone pieces and rocks, and then I got into the grout and crevices with the 3″ chip brushes.  I find the masonry brush too unwieldy to get into the grout, but the chip brushes make this part of the job easy.

Because the sun was pretty hot on the day I was painting, I was wiping off excess limewash pretty soon after applying it to the rock.  I didn’t have to do too much of that, however, because the rock was so crevicey and jagged that a lot of the natural stone was showing through anyway.  The terry towels worked great to cover my bucket of limewash and catch drips, too.

I worked section by section, going down the column, making sure to keep the application uniform and to pay attention to parts that were easy to miss, like the sides of rocks and bottom parts of rocks.

I finished the entire column in a day of work (about 7 hours, including a lunch break), and saved myself a lot of money by limewashing the exterior stone myself.

Admittedly, the Riposo Beige limewash doesn’t look fantastic with the 1970’s brown siding of the house.  I think it’s too stark of a contrast.  It does, however, look FABULOUS with the new color of our house (which you can see in my 1970s exterior makeover post)!  Here’s a teaser to whet your appetite!

Why Limewash Exterior Stone Instead of Painting It?

I know you’re probably wondering why I chose to limewash my exterior stone column to change its color instead of painting it or whitewashing it, and I have lots of good answers for you!

First of all, limewashed rock – unlike painted rock or whitewashed rock (whitewash is just thinned down paint) – has a much more natural appearance.  It is ultra matte, just like rocks and stone, and allows the natural patina to show through (where desired).  I did not want a totally polished or covered look that paint would have given, so limewash was the natural choice here!

Next, limewash can be removed within 5 days of application!  So, I knew that if I limewashed the stone column and hated it, I could rent a powerwasher and remove it.  That “insurance policy” is huge, in my opinion!

I also like that the limewash will continue to patina and age with time, unlike paint.  I didn’t want to destroy the rock – just update it to work with our new color scheme – and that is easily accomplished with limewash.

Finally, limewash poses no harm to the environment or surrounding surfaces.  I didn’t have to worry about some of it dripping on the bushes or grass below the stone, because it’s totally natural and non-toxic and washed away as soon as it rained.  It was nice not having to think about any of that!

This limewash finish will last approximately 10-15 years, which is the same as an exterior paint job.  So, I will have to re-do it at some point to maintain the look, but that is the case with any painted finish.

Let me know if you have any questions about the limewashing process at all.  I am such a huge fan of this material and want to sing its praises from the highest mountain!  It is so DIY friendly and makes such an impact at a low price.  It’s amazing.  🙂

Make sure to come back in a week or two to check out the entire exterior makeover reveal!

-Bre

Over the years I’ve used gel stain on many home maintenance and furniture makeover projects, and I’ve learned a lot!  Gel stain is an amazing tool for reviving wood, but it can be tricky to use if you’re not prepared.  Because of that, I am sharing my most helpful gel stain tips and tricks that will make a difference in the quality of your gel stain projects.

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

What is Gel Stain?

Since you’re visiting this post, you probably already know what gel stain is.  But, just in case you don’t, gel stain is a thick stain that sits on top of the wood finish instead of penetrating the wood like regular stain does.

It is awesome to use on previously-stained wood, as it allows you to change the color of the wood and refinish it without stripping it to bare wood.  For example, at my old house, I refinished my front door with gel stain, and in my new house, I’ve refinished stair railings, stair treads, and a china cabinet top.  Most recently, I painted my front door with gel stain to make it look like wood!

Gel stain can also be used on raw wood or unfinished wood, but you’ll need to take some extra steps, which I’ll fill you in on below!

Why Use Gel Stain?

In my opinion, the main reason why you would use gel stain instead of traditional stain is if you’re changing the color of wood that’s previously been stained.  It is easy to re-stain wood with gel stain, but requires a lot more work to re-stain wood with traditional penetrating wood stain.

If you are staining raw wood, I personally would use penetrating stain as it is less expensive than gel stain and gives a better finish on raw wood than gel stain. I personally do not like how dark gel stain looks on raw wood.

Gel Stain Tips and Tricks

OK, enough of the background info!  Let’s get down to the best gel stain tips and tricks, which I’ve compiled over the last several years of working with gel stain on various projects.

Wear gloves while working with gel stain.

You do not want to get gel stain on your hands.  I repeat, you do not want to get gel stain on your hands!  It is sticky and difficult to get off of your skin.  Because of that, make sure to wear rubber gloves or disposable latex gloves while applying gel stain!  

What is the best way to apply gel stain?

For large swaths of wood (like a tabletop), I like to use stain pads to apply gel stain.  Stain pads allow you to cover a large area of wood while maintaining a lot of control over the application.

For smaller areas, foam brushes are my gel stain applicator of choice.  Foam brushes are great because they’re disposable, and gel stained brushes are a mess I personally would not want to clean up.  Foam brushes also apply gel stain evenly and don’t leave brushstrokes in the finish.

How long do I leave gel stain on before wiping off excess?

Make sure to read the directions on the gel stain can, as it will tell you how long to leave on the gel stain before wiping off.

Generally, I wait around 3 minutes before wiping off.

If you wipe off too soon, you will not see a difference in wood color.

If you wait too long to wipe off, the gel stain will start to dry and will become very difficult to remove.

How do I get the right shade or color of gel stain?

Generally speaking, it is MUCH easier to use gel stain to achieve a darker wood color on a previously finished piece of wood than it is to get a lighter color.

Layering coats of gel stain (per manufacturer directions), will result in a more opaque finish that is darker and shows less of the woodgrain.  This type of finish looks more like paint than stain.

Also, you can layer different colors of gel stain, or mix different colors of gel stain, to achieve custom shades.  This is especially useful if you’re trying to color match an existing wood tone.

How do I fix areas of gel stain that have dried too quickly?

If you have gel stain that has started to get tacky before you were able to wipe it off, dip a rag in mineral spirits and apply a little bit to the problem area.  The excess gel stain should come up easily.  Once the area has dried, recoat with gel stain and wipe off within the proper timeframe.

Be careful not to apply gel stain to areas where the gel stain was not removed with mineral spirits or you will create an uneven finish.

If the gel stain has totally dried, sand it off and start the process over again.

Do I need to sand before applying gel stain?

For previously finished wood, yes, you need to sand before applying gel stain.  Generally, you need to sand enough to scuff up the existing finish and make the surface even.  You DO NOT need to sand down to bare wood.  This is what makes using gel stain an advantage on previously finished wood.

For raw wood, yes, you also need to sand before applying gel stain.  This will open up the grain and allow the gel stain to create an even richer and more even color.

Do I need to use Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner with Gel Stain?

If you’re applying gel stain to previously stained wood, you probably do not need to use pre-stain wood conditioner.  You may consider it if your wood piece, once sanded, seems uneven or damaged.  The wood conditioner will not hurt anything but can only help.

If you’re applying gel stain to raw wood, you absolutely need to use pre-stain wood conditioner!  Pre-stain conditioner helps prevent blotchy absorption and/or patchy spots in your finish.  As I said earlier, I wouldn’t use gel stain on raw wood, but if you are doing it for some reason, make sure to use a pre-stain conditioner first!

Should I seal or topcoat gel stain?

Yes! You should definitely seal or topcoat gel stain projects.

Once dry, gel stain has a naturally “glossed” look, which may lead some to believe it does not need to have a topcoat applied.  However, it really must be protected with polyurethane or some other “tough coat” or “performance topcoat,” in order to give it the protection it needs.  

I like to use fast-drying polyurethane or this performance topcoat for indoor surfaces, and Spar Urethane for outdoor surfaces like doors.

***

Those are my top gel stain tips and tricks, and I hope they help you achieve a finish that you love!  Let me know if you have any to add.  I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!

-Bre