DIY

If you’re looking for a way to hide the side of a refrigerator that doesn’t involve building cabinetry around it, you might like this creative idea for disguising a fridge! It uses paint and magnetic panels you can make yourself!

Since we moved into this house, the oversized refrigerator has really bothered me. It is enormous and sticks out like a sore thumb against the rest of the kitchen.

Back in 2020 and 2021 when I painted the kitchen cabinets, replaced the countertop and backsplash, and made some other cosmetic modifications like disguising the soffits and converting the kitchen desk to pull out trash, I should have tackled the refrigerator.

But . . . I am a lifetime member of the 95% complete club, so I left it as-is. LOL.

Fast forward to January 2025 and I finally decided to do something about this behemoth of a refrigerator. Something that did not require me to rip out the cabinets above the fridge and build an enclosure.

I can’t wait to show you my solution!

Supplies Used to Hide Refrigerator

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Refrigerator Painting Supplies

• Krud Kutter Prepaint Cleaner
• Orbital sander with 120 grit sandpaper
• Stix Adhesion Primer
• Benjamin Moore Advance Paint (satin)
• Paint roller
• Paint tray
• Paint brush
• Dropcloth
• Paper towels

Magnetic Refrigerator Panels Supplies

• Oak toe kick panels
• Circular saw
• Magnets (9x3mm neodymium)
• High-temp hot glue
• Tape measure
• Pencil

Part 1: How to Paint Refrigerator Sides

This first part of this refrigerator makeover involves my most favorite type of DIY project: paint!

Step One: Clean the Refrigerator

I started by thoroughly cleaning the sides of the refrigerator with Krud Kutter Prepaint Cleaner. I have used regular Krud Kutter for years for painting, and I decided to try this new formula that’s specifically made for painting projects. I’m not sure what the difference is, honestly.

All I can say is “dang!” The sides of my fridge were dirty.

Step Two: Sand the Sides of the Refrigerator

The sides of my refrigerator were pretty glossy, so I used 120-grit sandpaper and my orbital sander to gently scuff sand the sides.

Once I finished sanding, I wiped down the sides to remove the dust.

Step 3: Prime the Fridge Sides

I’m no stranger to painting tricky surfaces that typically aren’t painted (like when I painted tile walls and painted a fireplace hearth), so I know that high-quality adhesion primer is essential for projects like this!

I used Stix Adhesion Primer all over the fridge sides. This primer has not failed me in the past – it really works well!

Step Four: Paint the Refrigerator Sides

The last part of this phase of the project was painting the sides of the refrigerator.

Because there is some texture there, I did the first coat of paint in a matte finish (tinted to the same color as the cabinets) to minimize the look of that texture. BUT THAT WAS A MISTAKE.

The matte paint color was slightly different than the cabinet enamel color, and it was making me crazy.

So, I went over that paint with the exact same paint I used to paint the cabinets: Benjamin Moore Advance in Hampshire Taupe (satin finish). It was perfect! And thankfully the texture really did not show up any more than it did with the matte paint.

Once the paint dried, I pushed the fridge back into place. On this side it looked just fine!

And on the opposite side I thought “well this looks dumb.”

I didn’t like the gap between the bottom of the upper cabinets and the top of the fridge. Instead of the refrigerator blending in with the cabinets, it looked like the same fridge with a painted side.

I mean, I guess it was better than before, but it still wasn’t doing it for me.

Part Two: How to Make Magnetic Fridge Panels

Because this beast of a fridge butts up to the door leading into the dining room, I didn’t have room to build a wall or put in a real panel to hide the fridge.

I also really didn’t feel like doing anything like that, to be honest.

So I decided to try making magnetic trim pieces to frame out the refrigerator and make it look more like part of the cabinetry than before.

Step One: Cut Toe Kick Pieces

I purchased three 4.5″ wide (1/4″ thick) oak cabinet toe kick pieces and got to work! If you have better tools than me, you could cut down plywood to size instead.

I measured the top of the refrigerator from side to side and cut that panel with my circular saw. Don’t be jealous of my sophisticated “buckets as sawhorses” setup.

I then used super hot glue to attach strong magnets to the back of that section of toe kick. I put it in place and it held great!

I then repeated this process for the bottom piece, and then each side. I worked one piece at a time to make sure the measurements were as close as I could get them. I knew I could not caulk any gaps, so I needed these to be as close as possible.

(NOTE: At the request of my husband, I also tried thin magnetic tape. It was not as strong as the magnets I used and it (surprisingly) did not bring the panel pieces any closer to the refrigerator than the magnetic discs did. I do not recommend using magnetic tape.)

Step Two: Prime and Paint the Trim Pieces

I took down each piece of magnetic trim and wrote the placement of each on the backs.

I then primed and painted the trim with the same primer and paint I used on the sides of the refrigerator.

Step Three: Place the Trim

Once dry, I popped the magnetic trim pieces back into place on the side of the refrigerator.

And then, to be extra fancy, I put magnets on the back of a piece of framed art and popped that onto the side of the fridge. I also put magnetic hooks there and hung some decorative serving boards.

The Completed Faux Fridge Panel

The magnetic trim pieces did the trick! They really helped bridge the gap between the upper cabinets and the refrigerator.

The gigantic fridge is no longer the first thing I see when I walk into the house, and that makes me so happy!

It also blends much better now with the kitchen as a whole.

I think if you wanted to take it a step further, you could cut a piece of plywood to the same size as the side of the fridge, attach trim pieces to that (which you could caulk to remove any gaps), and then attach that to the refrigerator with magnets or mounting strips.

Since I like to drag projects out as long as possible, maybe I’ll try that in five years. Wink.

If you’re looking for a quick and easy way to add privacy to a deck, patio, balcony, or other outdoor space, this is it! This privacy screen planter box is weather resistant and maintenance-free!

Our lake cottage has an awesome deck, which is one of the things we love most about it. Spending quality time outdoors with the family is pretty much THE reason we wanted a cottage in the first place!

Part of it is really (I mean REALLY) close to our next door neighbors’ patio though. And while they are the loveliest people, we wanted to have a little privacy on the deck and afford them the same on their patio.

I have built a freestanding privacy screen planter box before, so I considered doing something similar here. But, building a similar fence or slat wall would take me too long, and we wanted to be able to enjoy this deck ASAP!

Because of that, I decided to take the easy way out and use all-weather planter boxes and artificial trees to create a green screen on the deck, which looks awesome and functions just how we wanted it to!

Full disclosure: this privacy screen solution cost more than I typically would spend on such a project. BUT – the convenience was worth it to me. And, the fact that it is zero maintenance was also a huge way for me to justify the expense.

How to Set Up an Outdoor Privacy Screen with Planters and Artificial Trees

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I chose these Veradek all-weather planter boxes because they get amazing ratings online and are rated for use in all weather types: including harsh winters like we have here in Wisconsin.

I also liked that they were very tall and had a box inside the main planter box so that you don’t have to fill the entire thing with dirt or filler. The planter boxes’ height is very helpful for creating a privacy screen that is tall (aka: effective)!

Place the Planter Boxes

I started by placing them along the deck railing. These large planter boxes are lightweight and easy to carry – unlike similar ones that are made of corten steel!

I left the drainage holes open so that water can run out, and then I placed a patio paver stone in the base of each planter box. I did this so that they would have some weight and not tip over easily.

Fluff the Artificial Trees

Next, I placed two 5′ artificial cedar trees in each planter box. These planter boxes could accommodate three faux trees, but I was trying to save some money, so I only did two.

I fluffed out each of the branches and found these fake trees to be actually quite realistic! The variation in colors of the “needles” really helps them look authentic!

These artificial trees are UV treated for outdoor use, but I plan to spray each tree with my favorite artificial plant UV sealer, too, just to be extra safe! I want these to look good for as long as they possibly can!

Fill the Planter Boxes with Soil or Gravel

Once the trees were in each of the planter boxes, I filled in the boxes with soil.

UPDATE: A couple of months later, my husband was able to help me fill the planter boxes with landscaping rocks. This added extra weight, which helped keep the trees from shifting in the strong winds we’ve been having.

In just under one hour, I had a complete wall of privacy. The longest part of this project was breaking down the cardboard boxes after I had everything in place.

I couldn’t be happier with this green screen or privacy screen on my deck. It looks very natural and gives us the buffer we needed between our home and our neighbor’s patio.

It’s also beautiful to look at from inside the cottage!

I think this privacy screen solution would be perfect for a balcony, apartment, anywhere that it’s difficult to grow trees, neighborhoods that don’t allow fences, and more.

It’s also a totally renter-friendly outdoor privacy screen because you can bring it with you when you leave!

Now, a few months after putting this up, I can still say that I love this solution. The artificial trees even look beautiful in the winter!

Let me know if you have any questions in the comment section below. I am always happy to help!

Looking for a creative garden hose storage idea? Head to the thrift store and DIY your own hose storage basket!

In an effort to amp up the curb appeal of our home, my husband and I installed a flagstone patio near our front door, and I stained and stenciled the concrete porch.

It was looking good, but what WASN’T looking good was the ugly hose storage cart we had sitting out there. It was front and center and not doing it for me. It didn’t even roll well!

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

I’d been telling my family about these retractable hoses I’d seen all over TikTok. And then on Mother’s Day, I received a gift of . . . you guessed it . . . a new hose. LOL.

But it wasn’t a retractable hose like I’d been talking about. It was an expandable garden hose. I almost returned it, but I’m glad I didn’t because I actually love it! (It’s really lightweight and compact. Much easier to use!)

And, I decided it would be perfect to have out front, to take the place of our traditional outdoor hose on the cart.

I almost bought a hose pot on Amazon, but they were either too plain or too expensive.

So when I went to Goodwill a different day, I had a lightbulb moment! I decided to turn a basket into a hose pot! I found the perfect one – it wasn’t floppy and it was tall enough to store my hose.

DIY Hose Storage Basket Supplies

These are the supplies you’ll need to make your own creative basket hose storage.

• Basket
• Oscillating Tool (if you don’t have one, you could try using a utility knife but be careful!)
• Waterproofing Spray
• Recommended: expanding hose (I think a regular garden hose could be too bulky and heavy)
• Sharpie marker

How to Make a DIY Garden Hose Storage Basket

Start by placing the basket in front of the hose spigot. Then, mark where the hose spigot is on the back of the basket.

Where you drew the mark is where you’ll want to cut part of the basket for the hose to go through. (If the spigot is higher than the basket, just make the hole near the top of the basket, but not so close to the top that it breaks the basket.)

Use an oscillating tool to cut out part of the basket so that the end of the hose can fit through. If you don’t have an oscillating tool, you could use a utility knife, but be VERY careful!

Spray the basket inside and out with waterproofing spray. This is very important because your basket will break down very fast if you don’t waterproof it.

Make sure to follow the directions on the can. Don’t oversaturate it, and let it dry long enough before getting it wet.

Place the hose in the basket and run the end through the hole so that you can connect it to the spigot.

And that’s all you have to do to create your own DIY garden hose storage pot!

After using the hose, you should let it hang out of the basket so that excess water can drip out instead of into the basket. Even though it’s waterproofed, it’s probably best to shield it from as much water as possible.

And, I shared a video of this project on social media . . . and people in other areas of the country expressed concern about snakes and lizards living in a hose basket. I guess if that’s an issue for you, you should get a lidded basket! (Couting my blessings we don’t really have those up here!)

Time to go water my plants! 🙂