DIY

How to Upgrade a Bookcase with Wrapping Paper {IKEA Gersby Hack}

January 18, 2017 by Bre 14 Comments

Last November, I shared my Office Space Makeover with you. I’m happy to report that I am 100% in love with this space, and since I’m working from home now, the timing of that makeover could not have been better!

Part of that makeover involved me adding bookcases to flank the window on the west side of the room. We needed some additional storage in there and thought bookcases seemed like the right choice. Smart people seem to have a lot of bookcases in their homes. Before these, we had one . . . in my son’s room. So yeah, read between the lines . . . we needed some bookcases.

Take your IKEA Gersby bookcase from basic to beautiful with this tutorial on how to upgrade a bookcase with wrapping paper.

Anyway, I found the perfect-sized bookcases at IKEA. The IKEA Gersby bookcase is almost too good to be true! Now I’m not going to pretend like these are pretty bookcases. They are not. There is nothing interesting about them; the screws are exposed on the sides, and the bookcase backing is cardboard that has big seams running down it.

But they’re a good value, so I decided to upgrade them a little bit by doing the easiest IKEA hack ever – adding wrapping paper to the backing to hide those seams and bring up the style on the Gersby bookcases. If you have plain Jane bookcases in need of some style (Gersby or not), this idea will be perfect for you!

Supplies Needed to Upgrade the Gersby Bookcase

Some of these links are affiliate links, which means I earn a small commission at no added cost to you, if you purchase through them. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

Wrapping paper (make sure the wrapping paper you choose is thick, and wide enough and long enough to cover the entire backing of the bookcase)
Spray adhesive
Rotary cutter
Self-healing mat
Dropcloth

How to Line a Bookcase with Wrapping Paper

These instructions assume you’re adding the wrapping paper to the bookcase during the assembly process. If you’ve already assembled your bookcase, search on Pinterest for tutorials that deal with after-the-fact upgrades. There are great ways to do that with paper that’s been mounted to poster board.

Anyway . . . moving right along. Protect your workspace and lay the wrapping paper face down. Once it’s as flat as you can get it, spray the first third of it with spray adhesive.

Starting at the top, carefully place the unrolled end of the wrapping paper onto the bookcase backing. Then slowly roll it down the first third of the bookcase backing where you’ve applied the spray adhesive.

If you go slowly, you will minimize any bubbling or wrinkling. Also, the thicker the wrapping paper, the easier this will be.

Once you’ve reached the end of the first spray adhesive application, gently lift the wrapping paper roll and spray the next part of the bookcase backing. Gently roll the paper down the bookcase backing. Repeat this process until you get to the end of the bookcase backing.

Once you’ve covered the entire bookcase backing, flip the backing over. Use the rotary cutter on the self-healing mat to remove the excess paper from all sides of the backing.

You could try to do this with scissors, but I think it would be pretty difficult, and I’d be worried about pulling the paper up from the backing. The rotary cutter makes removing the excess paper really easy!

Once all the excess paper has been removed, you can attach the bookcase backing to the assembled bookcase per IKEA’s instructions. Add your bookcase essentials and enjoy your pretty new bookcase!

And that is just how easy it is to give a bookcase a pretty new look with wrapping paper! Can you believe it?

I bet you have a plain bookcase in your home that is waiting for some wrapping paper attention, am I right? Get to it!

-Bre

Also Try Updating Built-Ins with Peel and Stick Wallpaper!

How to Paint a Radiator the Easy Way!

July 8, 2016 by Bre 40 Comments

My house has many enormous, old radiators. Slowly but surely, I’ve been painting them to fix years of neglect (think chipping paint and/or rust spots), or poor paint color choices from previous owners (think mustard yellow).

I can honestly say that, until recently, radiator painting was my LEAST FAVORITE JOB IN THE HISTORY OF THE WORLD.

But now I’ve finally figured out how to paint a radiator the easy way, and I am happy to pass along my tips to you!

Before I figured out how to paint radiators with the method I’m going to tell you about, I painted them by hand. Each of the medium-sized radiators I brush-painted took about a week of half-day painting sessions to complete.

A week of stinky oil-based paint smell in my house, blocked off areas so that paint would not get smudged, and the mess that accompanies any painting job.

Needless to say, I was really dreading painting the radiators in my living room, which were gigantic yellow monstrosities. Here’s one . . .

And here’s the other. . .

I figured that each of these yellow beasts would take me about two weeks to refinish. And that’s why painting these radiators kept getting pushed to the bottom of the to-do list.

But now I know the SECRET of how to paint a radiator the easy way, and I am so glad to tell you that this method is life-changing. Seriously!

Supplies Needed to Paint a Radiator the Easy Way

Thank you to HomeRight for providing the product used in this post. The project and opinions are all my own. Also, this post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

The KEY to painting a radiator is a spray painter. I am telling you that it makes all the difference in the world (and is MUCH cheaper than hiring a painter to tackle your radiators). I used the HomeRight Finish Max Sprayer for the first radiator I refinished in this room, and the HomeRight Super Finish Max Sprayer for the second radiator I refinished in this room. Both sprayers worked great for refinishing radiators, but you can read about why I liked the Finish Max Extra Fine Finish Sprayer more in the updated portion of this post near the end!
3M Advanced Masking Film
Scotch Blue Painter’s Tape
Spray Painting Mask (I wore a head sock like this; no joke. I didn’t post a photo of myself in it because I looked a little bit like a murderer or a terrorist.)
Rustoleum Metal Primer
Rustoleum Protective Enamel (I used a Satin finish)
Acetone (for thinning the oil-based paint to use in the sprayer) (NOTE: if you use the HomeRight Super Finish Max Sprayer I talk about in the updated section of this post below, you will not need Acetone.)
Mineral spirits (for cleaning up the sprayer once you’re finished)
Wire brush
TSP pre-paint cleaner
Vacuum with a hose extension or long feather dusters
Recommended: lead paint testing kit

Instructions for How to Paint a Radiator

Before you do anything, make sure the radiator is turned off! Painting radiators is a job best done in the spring or summer, when you’re not using them.

Step One: Remove Loose Paint

Begin by scraping any loose paint areas from the radiator using the metal brush.

VERY IMPORTANT: YOUR RADIATOR COULD HAVE LEAD PAINT ON IT. MAKE SURE TO USE ALL PROPER PRECAUTIONS BEFORE SCRAPING PAINT, AS INHALATION OF LEAD PAINT CAN HAVE SERIOUS HEALTH CONSEQUENCES. TO LEARN MORE, PLEASE VISIT THIS LINK.

Step Two: Clean the Radiator

Next, clean the radiator like the Queen of England is coming to visit, and her butler will be giving the place a white-glove inspection.

Begin by vacuuming as much dust off of it as you can, and then washing it down with TSP. Once it’s dry, dust it again. I promise you, it will still be dirty.

Step Three: Protect Surrounding Surfaces

After you’ve cleaned the radiator, protect the entire area around the radiator with the masking film. Tape it everywhere. The last thing you want is oil-based paint all over your walls or floors.

The masking film is actually really easy to hang and goes up pretty quickly. I told my kids it was our new curtains; they were not impressed.

Step Four: Prime the Radiator

Once you have the entire area protected, set up your sprayer and thin the primer according to the manufacturer’s directions. (NOTE: if you use the HomeRight Super Finish Max Sprayer I talk about in the updated section of this post below, you will not need to thin the primer.)

Then spray the entire radiator with primer. It will already look a million times better!

(TIP: If you’ve never before used the sprayer you’ll be using for this job, you should test it out on a piece of cardboard first.)

(TIP: Oil-based paint smells REALLY, REALLY bad. Make sure you have the windows open and a fan going when you do this.)

Step Five: Paint the Radiator

Let the primer dry according to the manufacturer’s directions, and then spray the protective enamel as the topcoat. Smile at your spouse or significant other because you’re so happy with the way this project is going! Seriously – you will not believe how much time you’re saving because of using the paint sprayer.

Once the entire radiator is sufficiently covered, clean the paint sprayer like the Queen’s butler will also be giving it the white glove inspection. Prepare yourself that it will be a pain, simply because you’ve used oil-based paint for your radiator painting project, and oil-based paint is chronically frustrating and time-consuming to clean up.

Still, even though the clean-up process is a bit involved, the entire project can be completed in less than a day, which is SO MUCH FASTER than hand brushing a radiator.

The finish is SO smooth (unlike the finish on the radiators that I hand-brushed), and I am thrilled with the result! I vow to NEVER paint a radiator by hand again. Never.

Thank goodness the mustard yellow radiator paint is gone!

I still have one of the radiators in my living room left to paint, but I’ll get that done in the next month or so. I wanted to make sure this method actually worked before I tackled both of the yellow beasts at once!

Update: Radiator Painting with HomeRight Super Finish Max Sprayer

Although I planned to spray paint that second radiator last fall, I didn’t get around to it before we turned the heat back on. It all worked out in the end, however, because HomeRight came out with a new version of the Finish Max Sprayer, the HomeRight Super Finish Max Sprayer, which has a few more features that made radiator painting even easier than when I originally wrote this post!

The feature I liked best about this new version of the sprayer is that I didn’t have to thin the primer, and I only thinned the radiator paint a tiny bit (and just as a precaution).

I don’t even think thinning the paint was necessary; I only thinned it a little because I still had acetone left from the radiator I spray-painted last year. Not having to thin the paint and do straining tests to see if it will work in the sprayer was a huge timesaver!

I also really liked that this new version of the sprayer has a flow control dial built right in, so I could easily adjust the amount of paint coming out of the sprayer depending on which part of the radiator I was working on.

The Super Finish Max Sprayer also comes with different nozzles and air caps so it can be used on a wide array of projects like cabinets, furniture, fences, decks, and more. (I most recently used it to paint my oak kitchen cabinets!)

I took my yellow radiator from this . . .

to this . . .

even faster than I did the first time around.

I cannot emphasize how much easier the HomeRight Finish Max Sprayer and the HomeRight Super Finish Max Sprayer made this job. Anyone who knows me has heard me complain about hand-painting my radiators in the past. I promise that all anyone’s heard about this project is how wonderfully easy it was!

If you have any radiators to paint in your home, I absolutely recommend that you use this approach to paint them – do not hand-paint them. You will want to pull your hair out!

How to Stencil Fireplace Tile

June 8, 2016 by Bre 29 Comments

The patterned cement tile look is still going strong, but not everyone can go ripping out their tile to get the look. Because of that, I figured out how to stencil fireplace tile to give my hearth a new look at a fraction of the price! And, this process also works to stencil fireplace tile surrounds.

Let me show you how I gave my plain Jane fireplace tile a faux cement tile look at a fraction of the price!

The Fireplace Tile Before Stenciling

Here’s the BEFORE photo – as you can see, the tile was a solid color. Nothing too exciting at all. It’s original to the house (built in 1927), and was super dingy with random black marks all over it. (And just so you all know and don’t leave me a comment that I could burn my house down by painting the hearth tile since it’s flush with the fire box, the fireplace doesn’t work.)

Check out this post to see how I painted the marble fireplace hearth in my new home!

Supplies Needed to Stencil Fireplace Tile

Thank you to Royal Design Studio for sponsoring this post. The project and opinions are all my own. Also, this post contains affiliate links for your convenience; please click here to see my full disclosure policy.

Here are the supplies I used for this stenciled fireplace makeover:

How to Stencil Fireplace Tile Hearths and Surrounds

The hardest part about stenciling tile is having patience! It’s important to do the right prep work and allow each tile to dry before moving on to another, or you might smear the paint! You’ll see what I mean later on.

Step One: Clean the Fireplace Tile

I started by giving my tile a hardcore cleaning with TSP (Trisodium Phosphate), which is a special cleaning agent that you should use before painting things that are really dirty, like a dingy fireplace hearth that was covered in old ash and grime. When cleaning with TSP, you definitely want to wear rubber gloves.

After I scrubbed and scrubbed, a lot of the disgustingness came off (thank goodness), and I was embarrassed that I hadn’t cleaned that tile sooner. Shame.

I let the tile sit overnight to dry, just to make sure it was SUPER DUPER dry.

Step Two: Tape Off a Tile

Then the next day, I got down to business. I started by using this painter’s tape to tape off the grout of one tile.

Step Three: Stencil the Fireplace Tile

Next, I studied the contents of my Mediterranean Tile Set from Royal Design Studio and decided which of the four patterns included in the set I wanted to use on my fireplace hearth. While I loved all of the options included (and could have used all of them in this project), I ultimately settled on the one I did because it goes best with my home’s style and era!

Once the decision was made, I gave the back of the stencil a light spray of this spray adhesive.

I pressed the stencil into place on the tile and made sure that all of the edges were firmly on the tile.

Then I mixed up a batch of these ivory and white chalky finish paints (only because I didn’t have enough of one color), and applied a light coat over the stencil with a tiny foam roller.

Once that first coat of paint dried, I applied another light coat. Before the second coat was completely dry, I removed the stencil from the tile. (In my experience, it’s easier to remove the stencil before the paint is totally dry because it comes off cleaner and there’s less of a chance of removing paint than when the paint is dry.)

Step Four: Repeat the Process

I repeated the taping, spray adhesive application, and rolling process across all of the tiles. I had to work on the tiles in a random order because I had to be careful about placing tape on or too close to fresh paint.

I made sure to stencil all of the regularly shaped tiles first, and then I moved on to the trickier ones in the corners. For some of them I simply had to bend my stencil and press it into place where it wouldn’t lie flat.

On the parts of the design that I couldn’t use my foam roller, I drew in the design with a pencil on the tile and free painted those spots with a small artist’s brush.

And then, for the really tricky tiles that were not square or rectangular, I cut the stencil to fit.

When I needed the stencil that had been cut for another tricky tile, I just pressed the pieces back together and onto the tile. It worked like a charm, but I am so glad I saved the cutting until it was absolutely necessary.

Step Five: Seal the Stenciled Tiles

I let the painted fireplace tiles sit overnight to fully dry, and then I applied three coats of matte finish polycrylic over them to ensure that they will be durable and properly sealed.

The Completed Stenciled Fireplace Makeover

And then my fireplace tile looked so refreshed!

I am absolutely in love with the finished product, and could not be happier that I have the trendy cement tile look in my home as a result of stenciling my fireplace tile.

I think this stenciled tile fireplace makeover was a huge success! Although I loved the look of my fireplace before, I am even more in love with it now. The subtle character the stenciled tile adds brings it up a notch, in my opinion.

If you want to get the cement tile look for less or want to add some pattern to plain or ugly fireplace tile, I definitely recommend checking out Royal Design Studio’s tile stencil kits and giving your tile a makeover, too!

And if you enjoyed this post and think you might give stenciled tile a try in your home, please make sure to pin this post for later!

-Bre

How to Transform a Ceiling Medallion Into a Mirror

March 22, 2016 by Bre 8 Comments

Sometimes when I’m at a place like Home Depot or Lowe’s, I wander around and look at stuff that I have no need for (oftentimes because I have no idea what the things I’m looking at actually are). Because of this, I can look at objects these places sell and think of ways to use them that aren’t their intended uses (like in my Pipe Strap Kitchen Art and Trim Corner Pumpkins). Kind of a blessing and a curse, I think! So it’s no surprise that when I spotted some pretty ceiling medallions at Home Depot, I immediately decided to turn one into into a ceiling medallion mirror. It was a simple project that turned out really pretty!

Supplies Needed to Make a Ceiling Medallion Mirror

Some of the links included here are affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here. Also, thank you to DecoArt for providing the paint I used in this project!

10″ Ceiling Medallion (I purchased this one)
Chalky Finish Paint in this color and this color
Foam paint brush
Super adhesive glue (I love this kind!)
Round craft mirror
Display Easel (for tabletop display) or 3M Command Strips (for hanging)

How to Make a Ceiling Medallion Mirror

If you’re going for a vintage or antique look, begin by painting your ceiling medallion with a dark color of chalky finish paint. I used this color and painted the entire medallion.

Once the paint dried, I lightly applied a top coat of chalky paint in this color. I did not paint it on as thick as the darker base coat, because I wanted some of that gray paint to show through.

Once the top coat of paint dried, I flipped the medallion over and put this glue all around the opening in the center of the medallion. Then I gently pressed my craft mirror into place over the glue and I let the whole thing dry according to the directions on the glue.

And that was it! Super easy and quick, but very pretty nonetheless!

Ceiling medallions come in many sizes, so you could make as large of a mirror as you want or need! Before buying a medallion, however, I’d recommend that you make sure you can purchase a round craft mirror in the size of the medallion’s center opening.

I plan to hang this little mirror up in my basement bathroom. I think it will look perfect in there!

-Bre

DIY IKEA Bar Cart from a Rast Dresser

October 26, 2015 by Bre 23 Comments

This IKEA bar cart hack will have you saying “sip sip hooray!” OK, sorry, I know that’s cheesy, but I couldn’t help myself! I’m so pumped to show you how to transform an IKEA Rast dresser into a portable bar cart for the home.

A big thanks to both Hickory Hardware and Pittsburgh Paints for providing some of the materials I used on this project! This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

Why turn the IKEA Rast into a bar cart?

When assembled, the IKEA Rast dresser is extraordinarily basic and very small in scale. Honestly, it’s more like a nightstand than a dresser.

Perhaps because of its small stature, it is priced at only $59.99! (That’s the current price at the time of updating this post in 2026.)

It’s SO plain that it’s the perfect piece to hack into a bar cart with ample storage for everything you need in a bar cart! The drawer is especially handy for storing things, too.

Because of that, I knew I wanted to transform the Rast dresser into a bar cart. Let me show you why and how!

Supplies Needed for This IKEA Bar Cart Hack

With the basic shape of my bar cart in mind, I set aside some supplies I had on hand and also went shopping at my new Menards (which is amazing, by the way), to take my IKEA Rast from Plain Jane to amazing.

Here’s what I used to transform my Rast dresser into a fabulous bar cart:

Wood filler (paintable and stainable)
Putty knife
Nails & screws
Hammer
Drill
Wood glue
Clamps
Miter box and saw
Circular saw
Jigsaw
Paint
Primer
Paint brushes
Beadboard
Three 1″ x 36″ square dowels
Precut section of 1/2″ thick birch plywood
Four casters
Two Hickory Hardware Williamsburg 3″ Narrow Cup Pulls
Two Hickory Hardware Williamsburg 3″ Drawer Pulls

How to Make This DIY IKEA Bar Cart Hack

Step One: Assemble the Majority of the Rast Dresser

So with the help of my three-year-old son and his plastic tools (yes, seriously), I assembled the majority of the dresser, but left off the back particle board, the bottom two drawers, and the bottom lip (that goes under the bottom drawer). I assembled everything else according to IKEA’s directions.

Step Two: Fill Holes

Next, I used wood filler to fill in the preexisting hardware holes in the drawer and along the inside of the dresser (where the bottom two drawers would have been).

Step Three: Create the Wine Bottle Holder

Next, using the jigsaw, my husband helped me cut semi-circles out of the bottom lip of the dresser to create the wine bottle holder! You can see in the photo below that I traced semi-circles where I wanted him to cut.

Once it was all cut, I then put that piece onto the bottom of the dresser, right in its designated spot.

Step Four: Cut the Bar Cart Backboard and Bottom

Next up, my husband cut the beadboard (for the back of the bar cart), and birch plywood (for the bottom of the bar cart), to size for me. (I wish I had the dimensions for you, but I’m sorry that I didn’t write that down!)

He was not thrilled about this and kept lecturing me about how I need to learn to use the power tools. I bought him some beer to calm him down. (UPDATE: Now (2021) I could totally do this myself.)

Step Five: Sand and Prime

Next, I primed everything with a coat of oil-based primer. (Remember, I was using the oil-based trim and door paint that is no longer available. Depending on the paint you choose, you may not need oil-based primer!)

Step Six: Attach the Backboard and the Bar Cart Bottom

Once the primer dried, I nailed the beadboard into place for the back of the bar cart, and screwed the bottom onto the cart.

Step Seven: Create the Bar Cart Top Tray

Then came the worst part. I had to do a lot of measuring (I really do not like math), in order to make a tray-type trim around the top of the bar cart. My husband was cracking up at me trying to “measure twice, cut once” and took this lovely photo of me. (OK, he actually took like 50 because it took a super long time. You don’t need to see all of those.) And even with all the time spent, I still messed up a couple of times. Good thing I had an extra dowel.

And then, I think simply for his own amusement, he had me hand saw the square dowels in the miter box so that I’d get a perfect fit for the tray trim on top. I seriously think I pulled a muscle from all that sawing. But I have to admit that he was right – using the miter box was the way to go. (Another 2021 update: now I would’ve used my Ryobi Miter Saw).

I glued the dowels to the top of the dresser/bar cart with a thin layer of wood glue and clamped (and weighted) them down to make sure they’d really stick. (Can you see the bribery beer in the top right of this picture?)

Step Eight: Drill Holes

After I was convinced my dowels were not going anywhere, I drilled holes for my new hardware in the drawer and on the left and right side of the dresser/bar cart, drilled holes for my casters on the bottom, and got ready to add some color!

Step Nine: Paint the Bar Cart

I gave the dresser/bar cart two coats of Pittsburgh Paint Trim Door and Furniture Paint in Charcoal, and that was it. Because it’s a gel-type consistency with a hard finish, no topcoat was needed! (Again, this paint is no longer available!)

Step Ten: Add the Hardware and Casters to the Bar Cart

After letting it thoroughly dry, I popped in my new hardware from Hickory Hardware and my casters, and rolled my bar cart inside! Isn’t she cute?!?

She’s so perfect for a small at-home bar, too! Wine rests in the bottom scalloped shelf, and glassware fits right in the little shelf above.

The drawer is the perfect spot for storing things like bottle openers, wine stoppers, martini shakers, coasters, etc. And I just LOVE how the gorgeous hardware pops against the charcoal finish of the piece!

The drawer pulls I added to each side are a great place to hang tea towels. They also serve as handles for moving the bar cart around. Double duty!

And the little tray-edging I added around the top is a great way to prevent things from falling off the cart when it’s moving.

I’m so happy with how my IKEA bar cart hack turned out! Can we raise a glass and cheers to that?
I really hope you enjoyed this IKEA Rast hack! Now go have a drink. Cheers!

– Bre

DIY Plywood Picture Frame

October 14, 2015 by Bre 20 Comments

If you’re looking for an inexpensive way to “frame” a poster, art, or large photograph, I have the solution for you! This DIY Plywood Picture Frame is not only the easiest thing to make, but it’s super inexpensive, too!
I made this plywood picture frame so that I could hang an awesome vintage wrapping paper map of Chicago in my basement. It prettied up a wall down there as part of my Basement Makeover that I just finished! I thought that guests who are staying down there might enjoy checking out the lay of the land!

Also, it was totally inexpensive and a very simple project – just how I like it.

Supplies Needed for a Plywood Picture Frame

Some of these links are affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

1/4″ birch plywood, cut to desired size (approximately 3-4″ wider and taller than the poster to be framed)
Wood stain (I used Minwax Dark Walnut – my fave), or paint
Spray adhesive
Decorative furniture tacks
3M Command Large Picture Hanging Strips

How to Make a DIY Plywood Picture Frame

Now, guys, I have to apologize here for a MAJOR BLOGGER FAIL. I recently started a new photo organization system and somehow I am completely DISorganized as a result. I have searched everywhere and I cannot find my tutorial photos for this project! I think I may have accidentally deleted them; they are nowhere to be found. So I’m really sorry, but I don’t have step-by-step photos. I think it’s OK though because it is seriously SO simple!

Step One: Cut the Plywood to Size

First, go to Home Depot’s precut wood aisle (sometimes called “project panels”), and find the 1/4″ thick birch plywood. This wood is thin, but sturdier than other types of plywood. Then have one of their employees cut it to the desired size for you. Alternatively, cut if yourself if you are skilled with the saw!

Step Two: Sand and Stain the Plywood

Sand down the rough edges and stain it or paint it.

Step Three: Apply Spray Adhesive

Once it’s fully dry, apply spray adhesive to the back of the picture or poster you want to display. Also carefully apply a thin layer of spray adhesive to the plywood, but be careful not to spray it on the edges of the plywood that will not be covered with the poster. Press the poster into place, making sure to gently smooth out any wrinkles.

Step Four: Add Pushpins or Tacks

For a decorative touch, add furniture tacks or push pins to the corners of the poster. I used furniture tacks, which were longer than the depth of the plywood. Because of that, I let them stick out so that they wouldn’t push through the back of the wood.

Step Five: Hang the Plywood Picture Frame

Finally, I hung the plywood poster frame with Command Large Picture Hanging Strips. They work perfectly for this type of project! Since the wood is so thin, it would have been difficult to hang the frame with regular picture hangers.

That’s it! So easy, right? Almost as easy as popping a picture into a real frame, but a little more unique!