At one point or another, most of us will have spaces in our homes that are in perfectly great condition but not exactly our style.  My kitchen is one of those spaces!  The cabinets, countertops, and backsplash are all in good shape, but the look isn’t what I’m after.  I’m going to overhaul it without a renovation, and I accomplished the first part of the makeover by painting my kitchen tile backsplash.

To some, it might sound crazy to paint a kitchen backsplash!  Tile can be tricky to paint (hello, adhesion issues!), and the kitchen is an especially messy area, which makes cleanable surfaces a must.  However, painting a tile backsplash is such an inexpensive and relatively mess-free way to update a kitchen that it makes a lot of sense. (And I am NOT one to shy away from painting tricky surfaces.  Check out my painted countertop here and my painted marble fireplace hearth here!)

I will show you exactly how to paint a backsplash for a finish that lasts.  My kitchen backsplash is a mosaic of glass and stone tiles, but this method will work on any type of tile.

Supplies Needed to Paint a Kitchen Tile Backsplash

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• Krud Kutter cleaning spray
• Paper towels
• TSP
• Mixing bucket and rag
• Rubber gloves
• Sandpaper (I used 220 grit)
• Painters tape 
• Multi-surface adhesion primer (I used less than a quart)
• Latex enamel paint (I used less than a quart)
• 2″ angled brush
• 3″ roller with 1/4″ nap roller cover (I used mohair)
• Screwdriver (to remove outlet covers)

How to Paint a Tile Backsplash

You guys know that kitchens are prime spots for messes.  Because of that, I fully advocate for a two-step cleaning process when painting your tile backsplash!  Your paint job is only as good as your prep work, so prep right!

Start by scrubbing the backsplash with Krud Kutter.  Krud Kutter is a non-toxic cleaner that is great at removing grease. 

Once the entire backsplash is clean and dry, gently sand the tiles to rough them up a bit.  I used 220-grit sandpaper on my little hand sander, but you can use plain sandpaper if you don’t have an electric sander.  (PS not sure why my hands are soaking wet in this photo. :-)).

I painted glass and stone tiles, and obviously glass is slippery and benefits from the sanding process more than the stone tiles.  However, even if you’re painting rough tiles, make sure to sand.  It really helps the primer stick better!

Then it’s time for MORE cleaning!  For this very important part of the preparation, mix up a batch of TSP according to the package directions, and wash the tile backsplash again.

It’s a good idea to protect your countertop during this cleaning so that you don’t accidentally damage it.

Once the backsplash is dry, tape off any areas you don’t want paint to get on.  I highly recommend Frog Tape over blue painters tape as I think it is much better at preventing paint seepage.

Remove your outlet faceplates and then you’re ready to begin painting your backsplash!

Start with a multi-surface adhesion primer like the one I used.  I know this primer works because I used it as the primer on my painted marble fireplace hearth, too.  

I used a brush to apply the primer so that I could be sure to get it in all of the grout lines.  You will be so happy if you’re not painting a mosaic backsplash like me, as you will have fewer grout lines to contend with!

The primer will look thin in some areas and will make you think you’ve destroyed your kitchen.  But do not fear: it will be okay once you start painting!

The multi-surface adhesion primer I used is great because it has a fast dry time to topcoat.  After just one hour of drying it is ready for paint!

The paint I used for my painted tile backsplash is the leftover paint from my mirrored built-in makeover.  Although it is labeled as cabinet and trim paint, I used it here because it’s an enamel paint, which means it dries to a hard, durable finish.  I used a semi-gloss finish (color is Manchester Gray), and I think you could even do a gloss finish if you want more shine.

I rolled it on and then went back in with my brush to grout areas that the roller missed.

I applied two coats of paint to the backsplash, let it dry overnight, and then put the outlet covers back on.

What a difference!

It feels calmer to me now.  The tile isn’t competing with the granite (which also has a lot of “movement” as the designer folks say).  

And when I paint the cabinets, it’s going to all come together and give me all the heart eyes and happiness!  (UPDATE:  I have completed the second part of my kitchen makeover, and am sharing my Kitchen Soffit Makeover / How to Disguise a Kitchen Soffit in this post!  Also, I have finished painting the cabinets, and you can see the totally painted kitchen in this post!)

How to Clean a Painted Tile Kitchen Backsplash

Because I know somebody is going to ask me, I’m going to tell you how to clean a painted tile kitchen backsplash, too!  And I know because I’ve already done it!  (Now that my tile is painted a light color, it shows the food crud much more than it used to.)

For messes that I notice immediately, I wipe them with a soft cloth.

For food that has hardened on somewhat, or grease, I clean with dish soap and a soft rag.

It’s that easy!

Well, I hope that gives you enough information to paint your own tile backsplash, if you’ve been thinking of it!  Let me know what you think of my makeover or if you have any questions in the comments section below.  I’m happy to help!

-Bre

SEE THE OTHER POSTS IN MY KITCHEN MAKEOVER SERIES

• Kitchen Soffit Makeover / How to Disguise a Kitchen Soffit
• How to Convert a Kitchen Desk to Pull-Out Trash
• DIY Painted Oak Cabinets
• The Easiest DIY Under Cabinet Lighting

 

Over the years I’ve used gel stain on many home maintenance and furniture makeover projects, and I’ve learned a lot!  Gel stain is an amazing tool for reviving wood, but it can be tricky to use if you’re not prepared.  Because of that, I am sharing my most helpful gel stain tips and tricks that will make a difference in the quality of your gel stain projects.

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

What is Gel Stain?

Since you’re visiting this post, you probably already know what gel stain is.  But, just in case you don’t, gel stain is a thick stain that sits on top of the wood finish instead of penetrating the wood like regular stain does.

It is awesome to use on previously-stained wood, as it allows you to change the color of the wood and refinish it without stripping it to bare wood.  For example, at my old house, I refinished my front door with gel stain, and in my new house, I’ve refinished stair railings, stair treads, and a china cabinet top.  Most recently, I painted my front door with gel stain to make it look like wood!

Gel stain can also be used on raw wood or unfinished wood, but you’ll need to take some extra steps, which I’ll fill you in on below!

Why Use Gel Stain?

In my opinion, the main reason why you would use gel stain instead of traditional stain is if you’re changing the color of wood that’s previously been stained.  It is easy to re-stain wood with gel stain, but requires a lot more work to re-stain wood with traditional penetrating wood stain.

If you are staining raw wood, I personally would use penetrating stain as it is less expensive than gel stain and gives a better finish on raw wood than gel stain. I personally do not like how dark gel stain looks on raw wood.

Gel Stain Tips and Tricks

OK, enough of the background info!  Let’s get down to the best gel stain tips and tricks, which I’ve compiled over the last several years of working with gel stain on various projects.

Wear gloves while working with gel stain.

You do not want to get gel stain on your hands.  I repeat, you do not want to get gel stain on your hands!  It is sticky and difficult to get off of your skin.  Because of that, make sure to wear rubber gloves or disposable latex gloves while applying gel stain!  

What is the best way to apply gel stain?

For large swaths of wood (like a tabletop), I like to use stain pads to apply gel stain.  Stain pads allow you to cover a large area of wood while maintaining a lot of control over the application.

For smaller areas, foam brushes are my gel stain applicator of choice.  Foam brushes are great because they’re disposable, and gel stained brushes are a mess I personally would not want to clean up.  Foam brushes also apply gel stain evenly and don’t leave brushstrokes in the finish.

How long do I leave gel stain on before wiping off excess?

Make sure to read the directions on the gel stain can, as it will tell you how long to leave on the gel stain before wiping off.

Generally, I wait around 3 minutes before wiping off.

If you wipe off too soon, you will not see a difference in wood color.

If you wait too long to wipe off, the gel stain will start to dry and will become very difficult to remove.

How do I get the right shade or color of gel stain?

Generally speaking, it is MUCH easier to use gel stain to achieve a darker wood color on a previously finished piece of wood than it is to get a lighter color.

Layering coats of gel stain (per manufacturer directions), will result in a more opaque finish that is darker and shows less of the woodgrain.  This type of finish looks more like paint than stain.

Also, you can layer different colors of gel stain, or mix different colors of gel stain, to achieve custom shades.  This is especially useful if you’re trying to color match an existing wood tone.

How do I fix areas of gel stain that have dried too quickly?

If you have gel stain that has started to get tacky before you were able to wipe it off, dip a rag in mineral spirits and apply a little bit to the problem area.  The excess gel stain should come up easily.  Once the area has dried, recoat with gel stain and wipe off within the proper timeframe.

Be careful not to apply gel stain to areas where the gel stain was not removed with mineral spirits or you will create an uneven finish.

If the gel stain has totally dried, sand it off and start the process over again.

Do I need to sand before applying gel stain?

For previously finished wood, yes, you need to sand before applying gel stain.  Generally, you need to sand enough to scuff up the existing finish and make the surface even.  You DO NOT need to sand down to bare wood.  This is what makes using gel stain an advantage on previously finished wood.

For raw wood, yes, you also need to sand before applying gel stain.  This will open up the grain and allow the gel stain to create an even richer and more even color.

Do I need to use Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner with Gel Stain?

If you’re applying gel stain to previously stained wood, you probably do not need to use pre-stain wood conditioner.  You may consider it if your wood piece, once sanded, seems uneven or damaged.  The wood conditioner will not hurt anything but can only help.

If you’re applying gel stain to raw wood, you absolutely need to use pre-stain wood conditioner!  Pre-stain conditioner helps prevent blotchy absorption and/or patchy spots in your finish.  As I said earlier, I wouldn’t use gel stain on raw wood, but if you are doing it for some reason, make sure to use a pre-stain conditioner first!

Should I seal or topcoat gel stain?

Yes! You should definitely seal or topcoat gel stain projects.

Once dry, gel stain has a naturally “glossed” look, which may lead some to believe it does not need to have a topcoat applied.  However, it really must be protected with polyurethane or some other “tough coat” or “performance topcoat,” in order to give it the protection it needs.  

I like to use fast-drying polyurethane or this performance topcoat for indoor surfaces, and Spar Urethane for outdoor surfaces like doors.

***

Those are my top gel stain tips and tricks, and I hope they help you achieve a finish that you love!  Let me know if you have any to add.  I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!

-Bre

I LOVE a good home transformation experiment, and today’s post showcases an amazing one!  I’m going to show you how to paint a countertop to look like marble.  I painted my dated granite countertop in my powder room and I achieved a convincing marble finish!  And guess what?  You can, too!

Before we dive in, let me show you what I was working with in my powder room.  Dated oak vanity, busy tile wall backsplash, and a dark and dated granite countertop that was REALLY busy with that crazy tile wall.

On a whim one day, I decided to paint the vanity with paint I purchased as a possibility for my painted marble fireplace hearth.  I didn’t end up using that color for the hearth, but I’m glad I saved the paint because it worked great in this bathroom.  New paint and new hardware on the vanity (as well as on the baseboards and mirror), helped spiff up this bathroom, but the countertop still really bugged me.

We will be replacing our kitchen countertops in the near future, and I planned to replace this bathroom countertop at that time as well.  Since I had that already in mind, I decided to try painting my granite countertop first, just to see if and how it would work.  I figured that if it looked good, I’d save myself some money, and if it looked bad, I will have only wasted around $80.

Although the countertop is not perfect, it turned out MUCH BETTER than I expected!  

How to Paint a Countertop to Look Like Marble

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Because I painted a granite countertop, some of my prep work may have been different than will be required for those painting countertops made of different materials.  In my experience, I believe that the key to painting a granite countertop is in the prep work and in the sealer.  Because of that, it’s important to pay special attention to these steps!

I began by researching the Giani Marble Countertop Finish Kit, which includes everything you need to paint your countertops to look like marble.  Giani, the manufacturer of this kit, has an awesome video about the painting process, and this video really got me intrigued.

I quickly realized that the Marble Countertop Painting Kit contained enough product to paint a kitchen’s worth of countertops, and that I didn’t need nearly that amount of paint or product.  So, I figured out what I wanted and purchased the following items separately:

• Xylene (this is a MUST HAVE when painting granite)
• Rubbing alcohol (also a MUST HAVE when painting granite)
• Step 1 white primer paint
• Step 2 gray paint for veining
• Step 3 epoxy sealer
• 2″ foam brush
• 1/4″ nap roller
• Small artist’s brush
• 2″ brush
• Roller tray
• Painter’s tape
• Painter’s tarp
• Clear acrylic caulk
• Rubber gloves

I got all of my supplies for under $100, which was less than the price of the kit. (Note that the kit does not include Xylene.)

Step 1 for painting a granite countertop: PREP and CLEAN

I started by cleaning the countertop and then wiping it down with Xylene, which smells AWFUL.  Make sure to open a window while using this solution.  After the Xylene dried, I wiped it down with rubbing alcohol, per the instructions online.

Then I placed painter’s tape around the edge of the countertop and covered the vanity with a tarp.  

Step 2 for painting a countertop to look like marble: PRIME

Next, I primed the entire countertop with the white paint.  After one coat it looked pretty streaky, but the video warned that this would be the case so I wasn’t worried.

After four hours, I applied the second coat of primer.  It definitely looked better, but there were still spots where dark granite was shadowing through, or divots in the granite didn’t get filled.

Because of that, I applied a third coat of white primer the next morning.  The instructions say you only need two coats, but I definitely needed three coats of primer for my dark granite.  After three coats of white primer, all of the dark granite was covered.

Step 3 for painting a granite countertop: VEINING

After third coat of primer dried for four hours, I decided to try some veining to give my painted countertop a true marble look! 

I watched the Giani video again and used the techniques shared there to create what I think are very authentic-looking marble veins!

I made sure not to add to many painted marble veins, as I did not want to have the countertop be too busy.

Step 4 for painting a granite countertop: SEAL WITH EPOXY

This final step was the scariest in the entire countertop painting process: sealing the painted countertop with epoxy freaked me out!  I had never worked with epoxy, so I wasn’t totally sure what to expect.  But, I put on my game face and got to work.

I mixed up the epoxy per the instructions and poured it onto the countertop.  I used the roller with 1/4″ nap as recommended, but if I were you, I would use a foam roller instead.  The 1/4″ nap roller left lint everywhere!  I had to get as much out of the epoxy as I could with tweezers, but there was too much to remove before the epoxy set up (in about 30 minutes).  You would not have a lint problem of this magnitude if you use a foam roller!

As a result of my roller problems, there are visible lint bubbles in my finish.  I may be sensitive to them and others may not really notice them, but they are definitely there and mar the finish, in my opinion.  

Aside from this, the epoxy is what transforms the painted countertop from looking, well, painted, to looking like a shiny, marble finish.  Painted countertops with epoxy sealers are durable and the best looking painted countertops out there.  I’m not saying it looks identical to marble, I am just saying that the epoxy elevates the finish in a way that paint alone cannot.

Prior to using the countertops, I added a line of clear acrylic caulk around the countertop and the backsplash to help seal the edges.  After two days we were able to use our bathroom again.

Again, I painted a granite countertop to look like marble.  It’s not perfect, but it’s a definite improvement.  The Giani Marble Countertop Paint Kit or paint products enclosed in the kit, along with the company’s awesome video tutorial, make the marble countertop look accessible to all.  

If you’re on a budget or don’t want to deal with getting countertops replaced, I recommend using the Giani paints and epoxy to paint a countertop to look like marble.  Make sure your expectations are realistic, watch their video, and read others’ reviews of the products on Amazon, as all of these things will help you get the best finish possible!

I, for one, am very happy with the look of my painted countertop, and I’m glad I took a chance in painting it instead of replacing it!

-Bre

Last September I announced that we were moving from our beloved home outside of Chicago to the Milwaukee suburbs.  On December 21 we moved in to our new home, and since then, I have been busy unpacking and trying to make this house feel like our home!  I tackled my first big project, which was a makeover of our massive 1970s fireplace, and I am thrilled to share my limewash stone fireplace makeover with you now!  (Update: I subsequently finished my limewash stone exterior makeover, too!  Be sure to check it out!)

Before I show you all the pretty “after” makeover fireplace photos, I have to show you the beast I was working with!  Complete with a wide variety of orange rocks, this extra large fireplace really clashed with my living room decor. 

As much as I can, I like to work with what I’ve got, though, and I did not want to tear down this fireplace (can you imagine the dust and mess?!?), concrete over the rocks, or frame it out with wood and ruin the 70s vibe we’ve got going on here.  So, I did some research and decided to do a DIY stone fireplace makeover with Romabio brand limewash.

What is Limewash?

Sorry if you already know this, but I thought that some of you might be unfamiliar with limewash, so let me fill you in!  Basically, limewash is a heavily mineral-based paint that produces a very chalky and matte finish.  The minerals seep into the porous surface to which the limewash is applied and give a really authentic and aged look.  It is VERY popular for painting bricks and other masonry, like stone!

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

There are several brands of limewash on the market, and apparently you can even make your own!  I chose to use Romabio brand limewash because I follow the company on Instagram and love every makeover I see with their products, and because their limewash is affordably priced and comes in many colors.  I used the Riposo Beige shade for my limewash fireplace makeover.

Why Use Limewash on Stone and Brick Instead of Paint?

You might be wondering why I chose to limewash my stone fireplace instead of painting it . . . 

Well, there are several reasons!

First, I like that limewash is removable within the first five days of application.  This made the project seem less risky to me.  Although it probably would have been messy and tedious to remove the finish if I didn’t like it, I felt good knowing that it wasn’t permanent if I hated it.

Next, I like that limewash has little to no odor, unlike many types of paint!  I did this project in January with no windows open, and there were no stinky fumes invading my house.

Third, I liked that the finished look was completely up to me in terms of how much of the original stone color I wanted to show through.  Simply by thinning the limewash with water, I would have been able to get a more translucent effect and would have allowed more of the natural stone color to show through.  This is perfectly fine with limewash and does not affect the durability of the product!  In my case, I was trying to mask the orange tones, so I applied the limewash in a more opaque finish.  But had I wanted to, I could have allowed more of the stone color to show through.

What Supplies Do You Need for a Limewash Stone Fireplace Makeover?

Now that you have a little more background on limewash, let me fill you in on the supplies you need to limewash a stone fireplace.  Surprisingly, it isn’t that much!

• Masonry brush
• Protective tarp
• Cleaning rags/towels
• Spray bottle with water
• Mixing bucket
• Stir stick
• Limewash (I used one quart of Riposo Beige for my fireplace)
• Painters tape
• Optional: smaller paintbrush to get in crevices and hard to reach areas

All in, this project cost me just under $70, and that is because I had to buy things like painters tape, rags, and a protective tarp (since the ones I already had are still packed away from the move).  If you already have these items, your project cost will be less.

How to Limewash a Stone Fireplace

I think you won’t believe how easy it is to limewash a stone fireplace!

First, make sure to protect surrounding surfaces with a tarp and painters tape. 

Next, clean the stone with a wet rag.  Make sure to get rid of any cobwebs hiding in between the rocks, and get the rocks wet (but not dripping wet). 

After the stone fireplace surround is clean, get out your water bottle and spray the rocks.  You want the rocks to definitely be wet, but you don’t want water running down the rocks.

Now it’s time to mix up the limewash!  For this step, make sure to read the product instructions that come with the limewash you have purchased. 

I chose to mix my quart of limewash with half the amount of water (so, 16 ounces in this case), and this resulted in a thicker cover of limewash.  Remember to mix, mix, mix the product so that there is no extra water left at the top of the bucket, and so that everything is all mixed together.  This could take up to ten minutes because limewash is very thick to begin with! 

Once the product is fully mixed, it’s time to apply the limewash to the fireplace.  I started on the top side and worked my way down.  I watched carefully to see when the limewash was almost dry (but not totally dry), and then began to wipe it off very lightly. 

Doing this let some of the rock tones show through – but not too much!

I repeated this application / drying / wiping process across the front and couldn’t believe the immediate difference the limewash made!  I won’t lie – I did have a minor time of doubt as it was such a drastic difference, but I know that I always do that with any project, so I calmed down and kept working. 

Once I finished the entire fireplace, I went back in to the nooks and crannies I missed with the bulky masonry brush, and touched up those spots with a small paintbrush.  (If you’re working with a limewash solution that is more diluted than my mixture, this may not be an issue for you!) 

I stood back and admired the look of my limewashed rock fireplace, and then noticed how awful the orange hearth looked against it.  I felt a pit in my stomach because I couldn’t let this orange hearth ruin this makeover!  The limewash did not work on the marble hearth (I accidentally got some on the hearth and it wiped right off even though it had dried), so I had to think of a different solution. 

The good news is that I did come up with a way to paint my marble fireplace hearth, and the whole project came together gorgeously!  (Click that link if you want to learn how to paint a marble fireplace hearth, too!)

The Completed DIY Stone Fireplace Makeover

I know, I know – you want to see it!  Here is the completed fireplace makeover – it looks so different! 

I cannot believe what I accomplished for under $70! 

And in case you’re wondering why I didn’t paint the brass fireplace doors – it’s because I like them!  Brass is one of my favorite finishes.

Decor should be about what you like and not what others say you should do, so I am leaving them.  (For now, at least.  ;-)). 

Final Thoughts and the Nitty Gritty on a Limewash Fireplace Makeover

In total, I spent just about 4.5 hours on this DIY stone fireplace makeover – from cleaning, to wetting the stone, to mixing the limewash, and applying the limewash.  Note that if your limewash solution takes longer to get to the “wipe off” phase, your project time could be longer.

It was TOTALLY worth it.  My living room is so much brighter, and my fireplace looks so much better.  I didn’t have to spend a ton of money to make it look fresh, and I am so thankful to have found out about limewash! 

I used an entire quart of limewash in the Riposo Beige shade for this fireplace and I didn’t have any left over. If you use Romabio Classico Limewash, they have helpful tools on their website that will let you figure out how much product you need for your specific project.  They say that generally, a quart is enough for a fireplace makeover.

The next step in this living room overhaul is to paint the wall surrounding the fireplace (it’s currently a gray/purple color), and then paint the built-ins and get rid of the mirrored backs!  UPDATE: I finished the mirrored built-ins makeover, and we replaced the carpeting with luxury vinyl plank flooring (you can read my luxury vinyl plank review here!)  We would also like to have a mantel built for the fireplace, but it is surprisingly expensive (according to the one quote I’ve gotten), and my large round wood mirror gives the natural wood look we’re after – at least for now!  

So, what do you think?  Was this 1970s stone fireplace makeover a success?  Let me know in the comments and please share this post to Pinterest to help others learn how to limewash their fireplaces, too!  Us stone fireplace people need to stick together!  🙂 

-Bre