DIY

Transform unfinished stock cabinets into a beautiful DIY built-in dry bar.

Our basement has a little nook where we placed a desk that we never used . . . except as a dumping ground. It was a literal waste of space!

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My kids convinced me that we needed a beverage refrigerator (for soda! They’re tweens and teens), and a snack bar area. A snack area would be “so perfect for when their friends are over.”

I thought this would be a great idea for when we have adult get togethers, too. If I built a dry bar, we could all enjoy it!

So, out went the desk (thank you, Facebook Marketplace for a quick sale), and I got to work on a built-in basement dry bar that I am so proud of!

DIY Dry Bar Part 1: The Cabinetry

The first part of the project revolved around the cabinetry.

Measuring for the Dry Bar

I measured the nook (57″ wide) and then figured out which beverage fridge I wanted. I chose this 130-can beverage cooler because of the capacity, good reviews, and because I liked the wood shelf fronts.

With those dimensions, I then determined what size base cabinets I could fit in this space. I chose an 18 inch wide base cabinets with three drawers and a 15 inch wide base cabinet with a drawer and door.

Covering the Unfinished Parts of the Cabinets

Because the left side of the cabinet on the left would be exposed, I glued on a cabinet end panel (and cut out a toe kick notch). I also glued on toe kick molding to cover the unfinished toe kicks on the cabinets.

I used construction adhesive to attach these pieces, and used a combo of clamps and tape to hold them in place while the adhesive cured.

Painting the Dry Bar Cabinetry

The next day I set up my space for painting! I hung plastic sheeting and masked off the cabinets because I was going to use my new Wagner Flexio 5000 Paint Sprayer (gifted) to paint these!

I gave the cabinets a light sanding and wiped off the dust. Even though they were new, they had some rough spots!

Then I primed with Behr Multi-Surface Stain-Blocking Primer and painted with two coats of Behr Cabinet and Trim Enamel in Calligraphy (a gorgeous dark blue with charcoal gray undertones).

Using the paint sprayer made this go SO FAST, and I love that there are no brush strokes on these cabinets. They look professional!

I let them dry and cure for a few days, and then I began the installation process.

Installing the Base Cabinets for the Basement Bar

Because our basement has luxury vinyl plank flooring (read the review of my flooring at that link), which is a floating floor, I had to remove the flooring underneath the cabinets before installation.

I’m glad I learned that you can’t install cabinets on top of a floating floor before it was too late! (Note: I also removed the baseboards and shoe trim at this time so that the cabinets could sit flush with the walls.)

It was not too difficult to remove the LVP planks. I set the cabinets where I wanted them, traced the outline in pencil, and then used a Cordless Multi-Tool to cut the planks and remove.

I left the LVP underlayment to serve as a barrier between the concrete floor and the wood cabinets. And, I added more underlayment around the edges between the wall and where the flooring had begun. I didn’t want the wood cabinets coming into contact with the concrete in case moisture would seep up into them.

Then I moved the base cabinets into place and attached them to studs in the wall with 3 inch screws (#10) – making sure they were level with each other. I had to do some shimming to make that happen.

I watched a lot of YouTube videos on installing base cabinets! I was really relieved when this part was finished and I seemed to get it right.

Once the cabinets were installed, I cut a 1×2 piece of scrap wood and attached that to the wall between the cabinets. This would give the eventual countertop some support in that middle section.

I also cut a hole in the far left side of the left base cabinet and attached a recessed power strip to it, which I plugged into the outlet in the refrigerator space. I wanted to make sure to have power access once this dry bar was operational!

Basement Dry Bar Part 2: Open Shelving

The next part of the project was installing open shelving over the base cabinets. I did this before installing the countertop and backsplash because it was easier access to the wall without those things in place.

This was a simple project because I cut down two 1×8 boards to the length I needed, stained them a dark brown to coordinate with the flooring, and applied a wax topcoat.

I ordered shelf brackets that fit common boards and I applied Rub n Buff to them to make them gold.

I then hung two battery operated, remote controlled sconce lights above the shelves to help fill that space between the top shelf and the ceiling. I LOVE these lights! I’m definitely not an electrician, so these battery lights are perfect!

DIY Dry Bar Part 3: Laminate Countertop Installation

I chose to install a laminate countertop in a marble pattern for this dry bar for several reasons: 1. it was incredibly budget-friendly; 2. I was able to size it and install it myself; 3. it was available off the shelf (not special order); and 4. I liked how it didn’t come with an attached backsplash as many laminate countertops do!

I attached it to the base cabinets with wood screws, and you can learn more about my DIY laminate countertop installation in a forthcoming post.

Built-In Dry Bar Part 4: Installing a Tile Backsplash

Although a dry bar definitely doesn’t require a tile backsplash, I have always wanted to try tiling so I went for it here! (Note: this was AFTER I hung an awful peel and stick wallpaper. You can see it in the linked Instagram Reel!)

I used the internet famous Musselbound Tile Adhesive Mat for this installation (instead of mortar or thinset), and you can read all about tiling with Musselbound in this post!

The tiling process was a breeze until I had to start cutting these porcelain tiles for the edge. Then things got hairy (again, you can read about it in this post about tiling). But thankfully it was all fine in the end!

Dry Bar Part 5: Finishing Touches

Installing the tile was emotional and draining for me (I think I was really tired!), so I took a few days off and then got to work putting the finishing touches on the basement bar area.

I cut down and reattached the baseboards and shoe trim to the walls, and then I cut and attached shoe trim around the base of the cabinets (which I painted to match the cabinets).

I also drilled the holes for the beautiful blue drawer pulls, and reattached the door and drawers.

Finally, I had fun pulling out my decor stash (much of it thrifted!), and styling the snack bar shelves.

The Finished DIY Built-In Dry Bar

In the end, the basement dry bar came together and looks better than I ever imagined!

I am SO proud of myself. I set out to do this project by myself, and I accomplished that (with just the tiniest amount of help from my husband with tile cutting).

I learned SO much while building this basement bar, and can’t wait to see where the skills I acquired take me project-wise in the future!

For now, I’m just happy that my kids are really excited to use this as a snack bar. (Well, to be honest, they probably would’ve been happy with a folding table and the candy and chips I’ve got down here!)

I hope you enjoyed seeing my biggest solo DIY project yet! Please let me know what you think of it in the comments below, and drop any questions you have!

Wondering about the benefits and drawbacks of using the MusselBound Adhesive Tile Mat for your next tiling project? This MusselBound review will give all the info you need!

My first time tiling! I was so excited to install a porcelain tile backsplash for the basement dry bar I built. Prior to this, I’d only installed a peel and stick backsplash and painted a tile backsplash!

A big part of my excitement was due to the fact that I’d be using the MusselBound Adhesive Tile Mat: the darling of Instagram DIYers all over. Promising to reduce both time and mess of a traditional tiling project, I had to try it!

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

My first tiling project turned out great (if I do say so myself), and I am sure a big contributor to the success was the MusselBound mat.

That being said, there are some cons or drawbacks to using the adhesive mat that you should be aware of! Don’t worry: I’ll cover everything you need to know!

What is the MusselBound Adhesive Tile Mat?

OK for those of you not in the know (usually that’s me), a quick explanation of what it is we’re talking about in this post.

The MusselBound Adhesive Tile Mat is a replacement for traditional mortar, which is what you put on a surface to make tile stick before grouting it.

It’s a double-sided adhesive mat that comes in a roll measuring 15 feet, 10 inches long (which gives you a minimum of 15 square feet per roll).

You remove the paper backing, press the MusselBound to the wall (using a tile float to really make sure it sticks), and remove the top layer paper backing when you’re ready to place the tile.

Tiling with MusselBound Adhesive

Now that you know a little bit more about what exactly MusselBound is, let me show you how I used it to tile the backsplash of my DIY built-in snack bar!

The wall had some texture on it, but I’d gently sanded it previously (when I hung peel and stick wallpaper there).

Applying MusselBound to the Wall

The MusselBound manufacturer recommends installing the product vertically, and cutting it to size with a utility knife once it’s in place. I tried cutting in place but found that cumbersome, so I cut it to size before applying it to the wall.

Then I cut any overhang onto the countertop with a utility knife and a straight edge.

Once I pressed a sheet onto the wall, I used a grout float and a brayer to make sure it was definitely sticking to the wall! I probably overdid it but figured you can never be too sure. 🙂

I did have to slightly reposition one sheet, and that went fine because I hadn’t pressed down on it enough to really activate the adhesive yet.

Applying MusselBound to the area I needed went very quickly. I didn’t have any outlets or edges to cut around, so it was a very simple installation.

Placing the Tile onto the MusselBound Tile Mat

I left the wall with that MusselBound Tile Mat on it for a day or so, and got to work tiling. It was nice not having to apply the MusselBound and tile immediately – I could work at my own pace.

Pressing the tiles into place with the included MusselBound spacers was very easy. I started in the center, used my laser level to keep things straight, and worked outward until I completed everything I could do with full tiles.

Once I pressed a tile onto the MusselBound, I immediately used the grout float to press it on there really well and activate that adhesive.

The only hiccup I ran into was cutting these pretty patterned tiles with my manual tile cutter. They did NOT want to cooperate. It was a very frustrating process that resulted in me only having one tile left (because I broke so many), and me drinking wine while my husband took over the cutting duties.

I should have rented a wet saw. BUT . . . and it’s a big but . . . that’s one of the drawbacks or cons of using MusselBound. Wet or damp tiles will not stick AT ALL.

So, if you’re using a wet saw, you have to dry out each tile you cut before you can cut it. MusselBound recommends doing this in the oven. Can we talk about how time consuming that would be?

Grouting Tile Placed on MusselBound

Even though I was emotionally spent after the “all the tiles are breaking” drama, I had to grout the tile within 24 hours of application of the tiles to the MusselBound.

OK, maybe I didn’t have to do it within 24 hours, but it was strongly recommended by the company. And I’m a rule follower so I woke up early on a Saturday to make sure I finished grouting within that 24 hour window.

Grouting tile on MusselBound is done the same way as tile on mortar, so it was a straightforward process!

MusselBound Review: Pros /Benefits and Cons / Drawbacks of Using MusselBound

As you can tell from my first tiling experience, my only problem had nothing to do with MusselBound.

I thought it would be helpful to see the pros/benefits and cons/drawbacks of using MusselBound in a list form, so here ya go!

Pros of Using MusselBound Adhesive Tile Mat

• Less Mess: no messy mortar or thinset to contend with.
• Fast Application: Applying MusselBound to the wall is a fast process.
• Immediate Grouting: unlike traditional tiling where there is a wait time to grout, you can grout tile placed on MusselBound immediately.
• Comes with Spacers: the roll includes three sizes of spacers (1/8″, 1/16″ and 3/32″) in a slightly different shape from traditional tile spacers, that work with MusselBound.
• Beginner-Friendly: I’m a beginner! And I loved this product.
• No Time Limit for Applying Tile (With Protective Top Sheet In Place): once the MusselBound is in place, there is no time limit for when you can place the tile, as long as you keep that protective top sheet on to cover the sticky surface. So it’s good for people like me who always have to stop and start a project.

Cons or Negatives of MusselBound

• No Flooring: it cannot be used on floors.
• Use on Textured Walls: MusselBound needs to make direct contact with all parts of the wall. If your wall or surface is textured, it could be difficult to get a strong bond.
• More Expensive: MusselBound is more expensive than traditional mortar.
• Wet Tile: wet or damp tile will not stick to MusselBound at all. So, if you’re using a wet saw, you need to dry out each tile before placing it. This is time consuming!
• Grout Within 24 Hours: The manufacturer strongly recommends that you grout tiles placed on MusselBound within 24 hours. So, just make sure that’s doable for you.

I am really glad I had the opportunity to install tile myself, and I am thankful for MusselBound because it removed an element of intimidation for me.

I will definitely use this adhesive tile mat again if I need to tile. It gets two thumbs up from me! (Read more about my Basement DIY Dry Bar project in that linked post!)

So what do you think? Will you try MusselBound Adhesive Tile Mat? Let me know in the comments, or ask me any questions there!

Want to transform an unfinished basement into a home gym? Learn from this unfinished area conversion to a clean and functional exercise room on a budget.

Often overlooked, unfinished areas in homes have so much potential!  With some creative solutions and a little elbow grease, you can spruce them up and make an unfinished room a livable (and enjoyable) space.

My mom and I did just that with part of her basement – over the course of a few weeks we cleaned it up and turned it into an unfinished basement gym. 

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

It’s a fantastic place for her to work out now, and I am going to show you how we did it!

Paint the Walls

The first thing we did, and something I recommend for any unfinished space, is paint the walls.  Yes, even the unfinished wall with exposed studs got a fresh coat of paint.

Paint works wonders on any surface!  It makes an unfinished area look cleaner and feel more “finished,” even though it’s not!

Painting the stud wall with a clean white paint instantly brightened things up.  I used my favorite paint sprayer to easily cover the wood studs and back of drywall.

The white of this wall worked with the adjacent cinderblock wall, which was already painted white.

For the one wall with drywall in the basement room, we painted it Aspen Valley by Behr for a pop of color and interest.  

Gym Flooring for an Unfinished Basement

A next essential for creating a home gym in an unfinished basement is to put down workout flooring.  

An exposed concrete floor is not a good surface for exercise.  It is tough on the joints, unforgiving for impact exercise, and very cold!

We purchased ¾”rubber top foam tiles and laid them directly over the concrete. These tiles fit together like puzzle pieces, and came with a finish edge for the room perimeter.

The gym flooring tiles cut easily with a sharp utility knife (SHARP!  We tried dull – it was a disaster – ha!).  We were able to cut them to wrap around a pole and also to fit around the edges of the room.

These home gym tiles do not slip or slide around the room, and you would never know there is concrete under there!  We did not use any adhesive at all.

They feel so nice to walk on, and they were a definite upgrade for this basement home gym.

When purchasing home gym flooring, be careful and do your research. You want at least half-an-inch thick, and a non-slip surface is important.  There are lots of foam floor tiles on the market, but not all are suitable for a workout room.

Hang DIY Curtain Walls to Separate Spaces and Hide Clutter

In the case of my mom’s home gym, we were only using part of a larger unfinished space.  We wanted to create a separation of spaces without building walls, so we hung a curtain wall.

We installed a curtain wire that stretched from one wall to another.  This was tricky because we had drywall on one side and cinderblock on the other, and we did not want to drill into cinderblock.

We initially tried hanging the curtain wire on the cinderblock with 3M Picture Hanging Strips, but that was a total failure.  (Hey you never know until you try!)

Because of that, we attached a piece of wood from a nearby joist, and then screwed the curtain wire into that. If you’re hanging a curtain wall in between drywalled walls, you will have no issues!

We then used four of these inexpensive curtain panels to separate the basement home gym from the rest of the unfinished basement. 

(Sidenote: I love these curtain panels. I used the same ones in my home office and also in my daughter’s bedroom.)

This curtain wall allows easy access to the unfinished portion of the basement when needed, but makes the workout room feel like its own space when closed.  It also adds some nice softness to a “cold” area!

Similarly, we used a tension rod and two curtain panels to cover the entrance to a storage area accessible from the workout room. This hides the clutter and further defines the space. (Yes, we steamed them after this picture was taken.)

Add Storage for Gym Equipment 

Although my mom doesn’t currently have a lot of gym equipment (hey, she didn’t have a place to work out before!), an important part of creating a functional basement gym was having places to put the equipment she does have!

For that, we hung hooks on the exposed studs, next to a mirror (#flex).  This gave her a place to hang workout resistance bands and her ropeless jump rope (a must for a basement gym, given the usually low ceiling).

We also added a large basket to contain things like her yoga mat and light weights, and a small table near her elliptical machine to store her water and diffuser.  (Making the workout room smell good makes it even more inviting)!

A small shelf under the TV serves as a designated spot for the remote control and some decor.  In my opinion, having some decor helps the basement workout area feel much nicer.

With all of these simple changes, we transformed my mom’s unfinished basement area into a really nice home gym that she’s especially enjoyed using on bad weather days!

If you’re thinking of converting an unused space into a home gym, I hope these things were did are helpful to you.

The bottom line is that cleaning up and brightening the space goes such a long way, as does adding the proper flooring. With those two key components addressed, you can create a workout room just about anywhere in your home!

Let me show you how to stencil a wall and get a beautiful wallpaper look for less!

Shortly after we moved into our current home, I painted a grid design as an accent wall in my foyer.

I liked it (even though many – including my husband – did not), but once I refreshed my staircase with a new runner, I decided the foyer needed to get spiffed up, too! (Isn’t that the way it always goes?)

I wanted a beautiful floral wallpaper, but when I priced it out, I decided that wallpaper manufacturers are crazy. And then I also thought that the texture on my walls might not be the best for wallpaper.

As such, I decided to stencil the wall! I learned a lot and am excited to share my stenciling tips so that you can learn how to stencil a wall in your space, too.

Supplies Needed to Stencil a Wall

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my full disclosure policy for more information.

These are the supplies and tools I used to stencil my foyer accent wall, including the exact stencil I chose.

• Wall stencil
• Spray adhesive
• Painters tape
• Laser level (or level and pencil, but I highly recommend a laser level so you don’t have to erase pencil marks)
• Paint (base color and stencil color(s))
• Paint roller & roller tray
• Paint brush
• Dauber brush / stencil brush
• Paper plate or paint palette
• Small paint brush (like an artist’s brush)
• Scissors
• Sharpie marker
• Straight edge (like a ruler, level, etc.)
• Dropcloth
• Recommended: hair dryer

Tips for How to Stencil a Wall to Look Like Wallpaper

When shopping for stencils, I recommend searching for stencils that are actually described as wall stencils. If you purchase a different type of stencil, it may be very small, which could look funny on your wall, but also will take much longer to stencil!

Great places to purchase wall stencils are Amazon, Etsy, Cutting Edge Stencils, and Royal Design Studio.

This garden peonies wall stencil is the one I used in my home.

Now that you know all of that, let’s jump into stenciling a wall!

Step One: Paint the Wall Base Color

Maybe your wall is already a great color to stencil on. If so, you can skip this step. If not, start by cleaning the wall you’ll be stenciling on, and then protecting any surfaces you don’t want to accidentally get paint on!

Next, paint the wall the base color you’ve chosen.

I painted my wall Benjamin Moore Ballet White, because it is what I painted in my stairwell that connects to this accent wall.

Before you do anything else, make sure to let the base color paint dry. It’s probably best if you can let it dry at least overnight so that you don’t accidentally remove any of the new paint while stenciling.

Step Two: Spray the Back of the Stencil with Spray Adhesive

If you have textured walls, you’ll definitely want to spray the back of the stencil with a thin coat of lightweight, repositionable spray adhesive.

Spray adhesive isn’t meant to actually hold the stencil in place (though it does help somewhat). Instead, it is meant to give the stencil as flush a fit with the wall as possible. With textured walls that’s very helpful in getting crisp stencil lines instead of a lot of bleedthrough.

Step Three: Place the First Stencil

Now it’s time to place the first stencil on the wall!

Where you do this is dependent on the type of stencil you purchase. You should read the instructions that come with the stencil or that are in the product listing to see what the manufacturer recommends. But generally, initial placement depends on what type of stencil you have.

Stencils That Come with Ceiling Filler Stencils

Some stencils come with special thin pieces (called “ceiling filler stencils”) that allow you to get the design up against the ceiling without cutting your stencil apart. Manufacturers like Cutting Edge Stencils and Royal Design Studio sometimes have those. If they do, you’ll see that in the stencil description.

For those types of stencils, you start at the top of the wall in the center with that piece. Make sure it’s level (NOTE: the ceiling line may not be level, so do not work off of that. Make sure to check that the stencil is level!), tape it in place, and then begin using the full stencil. Once you’ve completed the entire wall, you go back and fill in along the ceiling line with the ceiling filler stencil.

Stencils That Do Not Come with Ceiling Filler Stencils

Not all stencils come with those convenient ceiling filler stencils, but that’s okay! For those stencils, it’s recommended to start in the middle of the wall like I did here.

Step Four: Apply Paint to the Stencil

With the stencil in place, check to make sure it’s as flat against the wall as possible. If you need to adjust it, now’s the time to do so!

Then, load either a dauber brush or a roller with paint. Use a dauber if you have textured walls, as you’re less likely to get bleedthrough with a dauber or stencil brush. If you’re lucky enough to have smooth walls, a roller will work perfectly.

Before slapping that paint on the wall, remove as much paint as possible from whatever applicator you’re using. Less paint is more when it comes to stenciling!

Dab or roll on the paint, and check to see that the stencil remains flat against the wall as you’re working.

Once the entire stencil is complete, go over the paint with a hair dryer (if you like), or let it dry for a few minutes before removing it from the wall.

Step Five: Stencil the Rest of the Wall

With that first stencil in place, it’s time to line up the patterns and cover the rest of the wall.

Registration Marks

Some stencils come with “registration marks,” which are typically little slashes or crosses in the corners of the stencil. You line up these marks with the stencil pattern to get a perfect placement of your next stencil.

For more information on registration marks (including videos showing how to use them), you can read more on Royal Design Studio’s website.

The stencil I used didn’t have these types of marks, and so I just lined up the stencil over the corresponding pattern I’d already stenciled on the wall. This worked perfectly and gave the seamless effect you see on my wall (in the finished result).

Use a Hair Dryer

To keep the stenciling process moving along quickly, and to minimize accidentally transferring paint to a place you don’t want it, I recommend using a hair dryer to dry the paint on the stencil and the wall before moving it to the next spot.

Where to Go Next?

Where you place your stencil next depends on your wall.

For my wall, I moved to as many places where I could do a full stencil first. I saved the small, tricky parts for last. I recommend you do the same.

When I had those full sections complete, I was left with a blank strip across the top of the wall and around the handrail.

Step Six: Cut or Resize the Stencil

Because wall stencils are quite large, you’ll probably need to cut down the stencil to work in small or tight spaces. These wall stencils are typically unwieldy to bend and hold in place.

Before you start cutting, make sure you’re finished using the stencil in its full size. Once you’ve double checked, you can get to work cutting it down.

Figure out which section(s) of the stencil you need for the remaining blank parts of the wall. Then, use a straight edge to draw a line on the stencil with Sharpie marker, and cut it with scissors.

I had to do this a few times to get the different stencil sections needed for my wall. But once those pieces were cut to size, I repeated the process set out above and got the whole wall covered.

I had a couple of spots to touch up, and I did that with a tiny paint brush and the base color paint. Even if you’re very careful while stenciling, you’re bound to get a couple of drips or spots here and there.

Once I put this area back together with my rattan console table, starburst mirrors, and vintage crewel embroidery print, I was in love!

This stencil wall is so funky and fun, but subdued in the color palette I chose.

And it looks just perfect with the new staircase runner.

I hope these tips on how to stencil a wall were helpful to you! If they were, please consider subscribing to my email list or following along on social media!

I recently shared my staircase makeover, where I removed all the carpet and refinished the staircase over the course of several months. (You can read all about it in that linked blog post!)

I am very proud of how the stairs came out, but I am even more in love with them because now they have the cherry on top: a new stair runner! (Peep my Christmas decor: hey, it’s December!)

I have ALWAYS wanted stairs with a runner, and this modern runner with its subtle chevron pattern is totally perfect for my home! It’s a transitional style, and that’s what I love about it! It works with all of the eras of decor I’ve got going on.

I did not attempt to DIY this stair runner installation for many reasons.

First off, the pie steps made this project less straightforward than a straight staircase (ha – pun intended). There was no way I was going to try and match patterns and get sizing right on pie stairs!

Next, I wanted a wool runner because of its excellent durability on stairs. I quickly saw how much wear and tear the old carpet on the stairs took, and I knew we needed something tougher than that.

I’m told that with regular cleaning and maintenance, a wool runner will last until I want to get rid of it. So I’m very hopeful this will stand up to my kids and dog.

(P.S. to check out the new carpet we installed at the top of the stairs, please see my new post on my Dark Hallway Makeover.)

And finally, I’ve seen many DIY stair runner projects online and none of them has impressed me too much. Not to sound harsh, but it just seems like an incredibly difficult job to get right without any experience. I knew I’d screw it up big time.

This was a time to call in the pros. And I’m so glad I did because they were amazing and took such pride in their work.

And finally, in case you’re wondering about manufacturer and style, this modern runner is manufactured by Stanton, and the pattern is called Wishbone. I chose it in the color Tan.

Thanks for checking out my new runner!

Dark hallway giving you the blues? Here are practical tips for how to brighten a dark hallway or dark space with little to no natural lighting.

After transforming my home’s staircase, I moved on to preparing the upstairs for new carpet. The biggest concern was making my dark, dingy hallway look less like an afterthought and more like a welcoming space with some visual interest.

With no windows and only a tiny bit of natural light coming in from adjacent rooms, it was a challenge to brighten up this boring space. But, a few key changes made a huge difference, and they can help with any dark spaces in your home, too.

This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please read my disclosure policy.

Before: A Dark, Narrow Hallway

Prior to this project, I did exactly zero things to this upstairs hallway since we moved in. Nothing.

With its original brown wood doors and trim, purple-hued wall paint, underpowered and dust collecting light fixture, and stained carpeting, it felt like a dungeon.

I really, really did not like it.

Repaint the Walls a New Light Paint Color

The first thing I did to this dark hallway was swap the grayish/purple wall paint for a soft white wall color. I read an awesome article by Kylie M Interiors about Not Boring Paint Colors to Brighten a Dark Hallway, and her tips on the importance of considering the paint’s LRV in dark spaces were so helpful.

(LRV stands for Light Reflectance Value. The higher a paint’s LRV, the more light it will reflect.)

I sampled several colors and eventually chose the Benjamin Moore color Ballet White, but had it mixed in Behr Scuff Defense (Eggshell sheen) paint.

Because this is such a narrow hallway, and also because my son feels the need to touch the walls constantly, I wanted a scuff resistant paint. The Benjamin Moore scuff defense paint was not available near me (and it was WAY more expensive than the Behr Scuff Defense paint).

I didn’t love applying the Behr Scuff Defense paint because it ran and dripped very easily: much more so than any other paint I’ve used. But, so far it is holding up really well (especially in our narrow staircase that was totally beaten up before). So, I think it was a good choice.

Ballet White has a LRV of 72, so it reflects light well in this dark hallway. It also does not look like stark white walls can – sterile and unwelcoming. Instead, it’s a creamy white with warmth that makes this hallway feel cozy.

The eggshell sheen also reflects light well – much more so than matte paint, for example, so that finish was a great choice in a dark space.

White Door Frames with Wood Doors

Next, I made a “controversial” move by painting the trim around the doors or the door frames in Benjamin Moore’s color White Dove.

We had new baseboards installed in anticipation of our new carpet, and they were painted White Dove. While I didn’t want to get rid of all of the wood finishes in our home, I did want to modernize and brighten the trim.

I cleaned all of the trim with Krud Kutter, primed with stain blocking adhesion primer, and applied two coats of Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel paint (semigloss sheen) to the door frames.

I also updated the door handles to a modern matte black handle, and shined them up with Howard Sun Shield wood conditioner (which was AMAZING, by the way).

I couldn’t believe how much more I liked these old wood doors with the white trim and new hardware. They looked so much fresher than before!

The white trim was another great way to reflect light and lighten things up in this dark hallway!

Install A Bigger Light Fixture

I could not WAIT to replace the ceiling light in this hallway. I am incapable of articulating just how much I disliked this bowl light, which collected bug carcasses and copious amounts of dust. Oh, and not to mention that it only held three dim light bulbs, which did nothing to illuminate the dark hall.

Adding light with a new six-light ceiling light has given this hallway SO much light and vibrance. It’s also a pretty fixture with modern style that really helps to update the entire hallway.

Add Colorful Artwork

Adding some visual interest to this dark hallway with some artwork on the walls in a complimentary color palette also helped brighten things up.

Since its a long narrow hallway, I needed artwork that wasn’t too deep or thick. My family would definitely knock it off the walls.

I chose to install a peel and stick Felt Right wall mural because it added so much color to this space without protruding too far off the walls, and without me having to nail anything into the walls! It’s so funky and fun, and it’s absolutely perfect for this narrow space.

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I also hung a few framed art prints on the opposite end of the hallway. Surprisingly (to me), the clear glass bounces light around from the adjoining rooms’ windows! So, that has been a great way to add light to this dark hallway, too.

Choose Light Colored Flooring

As I mentioned, I began this whole process because we were having new carpeting installed. (I didn’t want to be painting with new carpet on the floors.). The light color we chose worked well with the paint color palette and art colors, and helped keep things as bright as possible.

If you aren’t in the process of installing new flooring, one way to lighten up the flooring is to put down a runner in light or bright colors.

* * *

Of course this hallway would be so much brighter if it had any natural light source, but it doesn’t so I had to work with what I’ve got, as usual! I think that by focusing on finishes that reflect light and bounce light, as opposed to those that absorb light, I was able to make this dark hallway makeover a success.

If you’re able to do more than I was, here are some other great ways to make any dark hallway brighter:

• Add more natural light with skylights or solar tubes;
• Install doors with translucent glass panes or frosted glass panes;
• Paint dark wood doors a light paint color with a high LRV and in a reflective paint finish;
• Incorporate multiple light sources. In addition to ceiling lights, add wall sconces or wall lights, picture lights, table lamps or even a floor lamp if the hallway is big enough;
• Hang mirrors in strategic places to bounce light around a dark hallway. You could even create a gallery wall of mirrors or hang a tall or floor length mirror if space permits.

I hope that my dark hallway makeover and these additional ideas give you some ideas on how to brighten your own dark hallway!