DIY

Dark hallway giving you the blues? Here are practical tips for how to brighten a dark hallway or dark space with little to no natural lighting.

After transforming my home’s staircase, I moved on to preparing the upstairs for new carpet. The biggest concern was making my dark, dingy hallway look less like an afterthought and more like a welcoming space with some visual interest.

With no windows and only a tiny bit of natural light coming in from adjacent rooms, it was a challenge to brighten up this boring space. But, a few key changes made a huge difference, and they can help with any dark spaces in your home, too.

This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please read my disclosure policy.

Before: A Dark, Narrow Hallway

Prior to this project, I did exactly zero things to this upstairs hallway since we moved in. Nothing.

With its original brown wood doors and trim, purple-hued wall paint, underpowered and dust collecting light fixture, and stained carpeting, it felt like a dungeon.

I really, really did not like it.

Repaint the Walls a New Light Paint Color

The first thing I did to this dark hallway was swap the grayish/purple wall paint for a soft white wall color. I read an awesome article by Kylie M Interiors about Not Boring Paint Colors to Brighten a Dark Hallway, and her tips on the importance of considering the paint’s LRV in dark spaces were so helpful.

(LRV stands for Light Reflectance Value. The higher a paint’s LRV, the more light it will reflect.)

I sampled several colors and eventually chose the Benjamin Moore color Ballet White, but had it mixed in Behr Scuff Defense (Eggshell sheen) paint.

Because this is such a narrow hallway, and also because my son feels the need to touch the walls constantly, I wanted a scuff resistant paint. The Benjamin Moore scuff defense paint was not available near me (and it was WAY more expensive than the Behr Scuff Defense paint).

I didn’t love applying the Behr Scuff Defense paint because it ran and dripped very easily: much more so than any other paint I’ve used. But, so far it is holding up really well (especially in our narrow staircase that was totally beaten up before). So, I think it was a good choice.

Ballet White has a LRV of 72, so it reflects light well in this dark hallway. It also does not look like stark white walls can – sterile and unwelcoming. Instead, it’s a creamy white with warmth that makes this hallway feel cozy.

The eggshell sheen also reflects light well – much more so than matte paint, for example, so that finish was a great choice in a dark space.

White Door Frames with Wood Doors

Next, I made a “controversial” move by painting the trim around the doors or the door frames in Benjamin Moore’s color White Dove.

We had new baseboards installed in anticipation of our new carpet, and they were painted White Dove. While I didn’t want to get rid of all of the wood finishes in our home, I did want to modernize and brighten the trim.

I cleaned all of the trim with Krud Kutter, primed with stain blocking adhesion primer, and applied two coats of Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel paint (semigloss sheen) to the door frames.

I also updated the door handles to a modern matte black handle, and shined them up with Howard Sun Shield wood conditioner (which was AMAZING, by the way).

I couldn’t believe how much more I liked these old wood doors with the white trim and new hardware. They looked so much fresher than before!

The white trim was another great way to reflect light and lighten things up in this dark hallway!

Install A Bigger Light Fixture

I could not WAIT to replace the ceiling light in this hallway. I am incapable of articulating just how much I disliked this bowl light, which collected bug carcasses and copious amounts of dust. Oh, and not to mention that it only held three dim light bulbs, which did nothing to illuminate the dark hall.

Adding light with a new six-light ceiling light has given this hallway SO much light and vibrance. It’s also a pretty fixture with modern style that really helps to update the entire hallway.

Add Colorful Artwork

Adding some visual interest to this dark hallway with some artwork on the walls in a complimentary color palette also helped brighten things up.

Since its a long narrow hallway, I needed artwork that wasn’t too deep or thick. My family would definitely knock it off the walls.

I chose to install a peel and stick Felt Right wall mural because it added so much color to this space without protruding too far off the walls, and without me having to nail anything into the walls! It’s so funky and fun, and it’s absolutely perfect for this narrow space.

Use code BRE10 to save 10% at Felt Right

I also hung a few framed art prints on the opposite end of the hallway. Surprisingly (to me), the clear glass bounces light around from the adjoining rooms’ windows! So, that has been a great way to add light to this dark hallway, too.

Choose Light Colored Flooring

As I mentioned, I began this whole process because we were having new carpeting installed. (I didn’t want to be painting with new carpet on the floors.). The light color we chose worked well with the paint color palette and art colors, and helped keep things as bright as possible.

If you aren’t in the process of installing new flooring, one way to lighten up the flooring is to put down a runner in light or bright colors.

* * *

Of course this hallway would be so much brighter if it had any natural light source, but it doesn’t so I had to work with what I’ve got, as usual! I think that by focusing on finishes that reflect light and bounce light, as opposed to those that absorb light, I was able to make this dark hallway makeover a success.

If you’re able to do more than I was, here are some other great ways to make any dark hallway brighter:

• Add more natural light with skylights or solar tubes;
• Install doors with translucent glass panes or frosted glass panes;
• Paint dark wood doors a light paint color with a high LRV and in a reflective paint finish;
• Incorporate multiple light sources. In addition to ceiling lights, add wall sconces or wall lights, picture lights, table lamps or even a floor lamp if the hallway is big enough;
• Hang mirrors in strategic places to bounce light around a dark hallway. You could even create a gallery wall of mirrors or hang a tall or floor length mirror if space permits.

I hope that my dark hallway makeover and these additional ideas give you some ideas on how to brighten your own dark hallway!

Do you want to update your carpeted stairs with the beautiful look of hardwood stairs? This post will tell you everything you need to know about replacing carpet on stairs with a prettier version of your existing treads.

Buckle up because this project is a doozy. Anyone who tells you otherwise (“it’s so easy!), is misleading you.

That being said, removing old carpet to remodel stairs is definitely a doable DIY. And, it’s 100% worth it. It just takes patience and a lot of time.

And a funny story before we dive in: I did not even intend to do this project! I was pulling up carpet on the stairs so I could paint the skirt board running up the staircase before we had new carpet installed.

But when I found unfinished pine treads underneath the carpet (instead of plywood), I got so excited that I ripped it all out without thinking twice.

And alas, here we are. And I’m so glad because WOW – what a difference this staircase makeover has made in the look and feel of my home!

Supplies Needed to Change Carpeted Stairs to Stained Wood Stairs

Some of these links are affiliate links. For more information, please read my disclosure policy.

Don’t let this supply list intimidate you! You probably have a lot of these tools and materials already. And even if you don’t, they’re not all that expensive.

Not included in this list is wine. But you may want some (or a lot). Wink wink.

Carpet Removal Supplies

• Needle nose pliers
• Trim puller, pry bar, or crowbar
• Hammer or mallet
• Flat head screwdriver

Stair Treads and Risers Materials

• Electric compact sander
• Sandpaper in multiple grits (I suggest 80, 150, and 220)
• Painters tape (delicate surface tape is suggested)
• Paintable latex caulk
• Wood filler (stainable and paintable)
• Putty knife
• Prestain conditioner for oil-based stains
• Gel stain
• Polyurethane (satin finish suggested)
• Stain blocking primer
• Alkyd enamel paint
• Foam brushes
• Stain pad
• Lint-free cloth
• 2″ angled trim brush
• Mini roller and roller tray
• Recommended: tack cloth

General Stair Remodel Supplies

• Safety glasses
• Mask
• Work gloves
• Ear protection / noise protection ear muffs
• Latex gloves
• Utility knife
• Utility shop vacuum
• Paper towels
• Contractor bags (giant trash bags)
• Masking tape

Replacing Carpet on Stairs With Wood: How to Do It

Now that you have a good idea of the materials needed to complete this project, let me walk you through the step-by-step process of this stair makeover.

Step One: Remove Carpet on Stairs

Starting at the top of the staircase, use needle nose pliers to gently pull up the carpet. The carpet should remove from this spot, but if it doesn’t, keep trying in corners until you find an end piece of carpet that pulls up easily.

Once you are able to lift the carpet off the tack strips holding it in place, inspect the treads. You’ll be able to tell if you have:

• A. existing hardwood treads: amazing candidates for refinishing;
• B. pine treads: that’s what I have. They’re not the best because they’re soft, BUT they are workable; or
• C. plywood stairs: you’ll want to paint these (not stain), or skip this project altogether (unless you want to install new hardwood stairs or new treads – a whole other ballgame).

After you’ve assessed the situation, you’ll start pulling the carpet off the stairs by pulling it off the tack strips and down the staircase. You will also remove the carpet padding at this time, too. Hopefully yours isn’t so old that it crumbles all over the place like mine did!

This is really dusty and gross, so make sure you’re wearing a mask, safety glasses, and work gloves. And be careful of the exposed tack strips, which have little nails sticking out all over!

Once the carpet is removed, you can use a utility knife to cut it into smaller sections for disposal. You can also roll it into tubes and fasten them with masking tape. Our garbage collectors took one roll a week for us. 🙂

Step Two: Remove Tack Strips and Staples

With your safety glasses on (trust me: I almost lost an eye during this part of the project!), get started removing all of the tack strips on the unfinished treads.

The easiest way to remove tack strips for me was to place a trim puller under part of the tack strip, and then tap the end of it with a hammer to get it pretty far underneath the strip. (You could also do this with a pry bar or crowbar.)

Then I gently pulled upwards and the tack strip popped up and out of the tread.

Once the tack strips and all their crazy nails were removed, I moved on to removing the staples on the treads that were left over from holding the carpet pad in place.

To remove those staples, I slid a flat head screwdriver underneath the staples and pulled upwards to pop them out of the wood.

Once all of the tack strips and staples were gone, I was left with hundreds of tiny holes all over the stair treads and risers. Fun!

Step Three: Fill the Holes and Gouges

Now it’s time to fill all of those holes left behind from the tack strips and carpet pad staples. Make sure to use stainable and paintable wood filler, and fill in all of those holes.

As I mentioned, my treads are pine. They had some significant gouges in spots, which required a lot of wood filler. While stainable wood filler does accept stain, there is no wood grain there, so large areas of wood filler will not blend in perfectly. I just want you to know that ahead of time – large sections of wood filler will be visible after staining.

Let the wood filler dry, and then decide if you need to add more to sunken spots.

Step Four: Vacuum the Stairs and Sand

What’s left on your staircase at this point is a whole lotta mess. You’ll definitely want to vacuum before you start sanding, because otherwise you’ll be sending debris flying everywhere.

Next, put some heavy duty sandpaper on your electric sander and get to work. It’s time to smooth out those unfinished risers and treads.

I used 80 grit sandpaper on the treads and sanded for what felt like forever. I used 150 grit on the risers because they weren’t in as bad of shape.

This sanding process made a TON of dust, so I had my son help me at times and hold the Shop-Vac nearby as I sanded. It didn’t prevent all the dust from covering my home, but it helped somewhat.

Once all the sanding was done, I vacuumed again and wiped down everything to remove as much dust as possible. If you have a tack cloth, that would be great to use at this point.

Step Five: Stain the Stair Treads and Top Coat Them

FINALLY you’re reaching the part of the project where you see some real progress being made. And, just so we’re all on the same page, I am writing this tutorial from the perspective of the treads being UNFINISHED. (Your staining process may be different if you find finished hardwood stairs under your old carpet.)

Staining Stair Treads

Working on every other stair tread (this is VERY important!!), apply prestain conditioner to the unfinished treads. Prestain conditioner is essential when using gel stain on unfinished wood. If you don’t use it, you’ll have splotchy and ugly stairs. (Don’t say I didn’t warn you!)

Once the prestain conditioner has set and been wiped off per the directions on the can, apply a coat of gel stain to each tread. I suggest using a stain pad to apply it, and wiping off the excess stain almost immediately (as opposed to letting it sit for a few minutes).

I used Minwax Gel Stain in the color Coffee, because it looked the best with my luxury vinyl plank floor at the bottom of the staircase.

For more information on working with gel stain, read my blog post on Helpful Gel Stain Tips and Tricks!

Let the gel stain dry on these treads for the suggested amount of time (typically 8 hours), and then repeat the process on the alternate stair treads that haven’t already been stained.

Apply Topcoat to Treads

When the gel stain is completely dry, it’s time to protect the beautiful stained finish on the treads.

Again, working every other stair, use polyurethane in a satin finish, and follow the directions on the can to apply three coats. Think about how much wear and tear stairs take. They need a lot of protection!

TIP: I put a piece of painters tape on the treads that did not have polyurethane on them. This gave a visual marker of where we could walk, and helped us avoid any missteps!

Once the polyurethane is dry on the wood treads, repeat this process on the other stair treads. (And, move your painters tape to the polyurethaned treads that are now walkable.)

Step Six: Paint the Risers and Skirt Board

Polyurethane can take awhile to cure, so I suggest leaving a few days in between topcoating the treads and painting the risers.

Once you’re ready for this part, put down delicate surface painters tape on the stair treads. If there are gaps between the risers and treads, run a bead of paintable latex caulk in those gaps to make a seamless look.

Once the caulk – if any – has dried, apply a stain blocking primer to the risers. You’ll want a stain blocking primer because chances are some of your new gel stain from the treads got on the risers. You don’t want that seeping through your fresh paint, so pay a little extra to get the good primer.

Then, use an angled trim brush to paint the edges of the risers, and a mini trim roller to paint the rest of the risers. You’ll want at least two coats of paint for a durable finish.

I also painted the skirt board going up the wall and stairs.

I chose a white paint (Dove White by Benjamin Moore), for a clean look and nice contrast against the dark wood treads.

Note: I will be writing a separate post about the curved riser at the bottom of the staircase. That was an entire project that’s too detailed to cover here.

The Completed Stairs Makeover

Goodbye carpeted stairs, hello beautiful staircase!

This project has made all the difference in my house. To be honest, this staircase embarrassed me with its dingy carpet and wonky trim at the base.

Now it makes a beautiful first impression when people come through my front door. (P.S. I painted the walls in the stairwell and upstairs hallways, too.)

The curved staircase with its small landing are now architectural details that are celebrated instead of hidden.

And, while I would feel confident leaving the staircase as it is now, post-makeover, I had a runner installed. It’s a gorgeous, modern stair runner and I’d love for you to check it out in that linked post!

**Not shown here: we are getting new carpet upstairs, so the carpet will wrap over the top tread and be stapled underneath the tread where the top riser meets the tread. You can do that with your old carpet as the transition point.

If you’re thinking of removing your old carpet and remodeling your staircase as I did, my biggest piece of advice is to know that it’s not a fun project, but it will be worth it!

Finally, I tried to be as thorough in this post as possible without getting too far into the weeds. So, please leave me a comment with any questions or compliments! I appreciate you checking out my “new” wood stairs!

Looking for a relatively easy way to spruce up a concrete porch or patio? Let me show you how to paint and stencil concrete! You’ll instantly infuse your outdoor space with personality and charm.

I’ve always wanted to stencil my concrete porch floor, but that project kept getting pushed to the bottom of the project list. (I know you know how that goes!)

If you’re in the same boat, I want to encourage you to JUST DO IT (yeah, Nike style)! I finally stenciled my porch (or more accurately, my stoop) this summer and I absolutely love it! It makes me so happy when I pull up to the house and see it.

So let’s dive in – I’m going to give you all the info you need!

Concrete Stain vs. Concrete Paint: What is the Difference?

When I shopped for materials for this project, I was surprised to find out that there are actually two product types used to stencil concrete: concrete stain and concrete paint.

I wasn’t sure which to use, so I did a little research (that I’m more than happy to share with you!).

What I found out is that concrete stain and paint are much like “regular” stain and paint. Namely, concrete stain actually permeates the concrete, which means that it seeps right in there. Conversely, concrete paint sits on top of the concrete.

As I’m sure you can guess, the stain is much more durable and withstands foot traffic better because of the way it bonds with the concrete. Concrete paint will stick well to the surface, but because it’s on the surface, it’s much more prone to peeling, chipping, and fading.

Because of this, I chose to use concrete stain for my stencil project.

How Long Does Concrete Stain Last Outside?

Of course you don’t want your hard work of stenciling your porch or patio to wash away in the elements, but it’s really hard to give a definite timeframe of how long concrete stain lasts outside.

The reason for this is that it’s very dependent upon your prep work, the sealer used, the conditions to which the concrete is subjected (weather, amount of foot traffic or car traffic), and more!

Generally, with proper sealing and reapplication of sealer every year, you should be able to maintain the look of your stencil pattern for years to come. Your porch or patio won’t be as low maintenance as it was before, but it will be worth it for the charm and character you add!

What Supplies Do You Need to Stencil and Paint a Concrete Patio or Porch?

Now that you know a bit more about this project, here’s the supply list. These are the materials I used to transform my concrete stoop over the course of three days. They are what are shown in this post.

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

• Power washer or pressure washer
• Broom
• Behr Premium Solid-Color Concrete Stain: pick two colors if you’re painting a base coat before stenciling. I used the color Pyramid for my porch.
• Stirring Stick
• Stencil brush
• Stencil for concrete patio (see suggested stencils at the bottom of this post)
• Paint roller
• Painters tape
• Paper plates
• Paper towel roll
• Garbage bag
• Behr Premium Concrete, Brick & Tile Low-Lustre Sealer

Optional, but recommended depending on your plans, supplies:

• Muriatic acid or concrete etch and cleaner
• Behr Premium Concrete & Masonry Bonding Primer

How to Stain and Stencil a Concrete Porch or Patio Floor

Get ready to make a huge difference in the look and feel of your porch or patio! (And P.S. once you tackle this job, why not stencil a wall in your home? That linked post will tell you everything you need!)

Step One: Prepare the Surface

First things first: you gotta do the prep work. I know, I know. It’s not fun or glamorous, but it’s essential!

Must-Do Prep Work

Start by pressure washing or power washing the concrete. (Confession time: I don’t know the difference between these two things, or if there even is a difference.) I’m lucky that my mom owns one of these devices, so I borrowed hers and got to work. Then I let the concrete dry overnight.

The discoloration along the front and righthand side of the porch did not go away with the pressure wash, but a lot of dirt blew off!

Maybe Necessary Prep Work

Power washing is where my prep work stopped, but there might be more required for some.

For example, if you have cracks in the concrete that you wish to fill, this is the time to do it.

In addition, IF YOU PLAN TO PAINT OR STAIN A BASE LAYER of color before stenciling, you should consider etching the concrete with muriatic acid next. I did not do this because I wasn’t putting down a base color (and because I like to live on the edge).

Also, if you are putting down a base color, you should DEFINITELY apply concrete primer. I’ve painted and stained enough tricky surfaces in my day to know that primer is super duper important. I did not prime my porch because the stencil would not cover all of the primer, so it would have looked weird.

Step Two: Paint or Stain the Base Layer

If you want a solid color underneath the stencil color, you need to apply a coat or two of stain with a roller. How many coats of stain depends on the look you’re going for. This is totally your preference!

If you want a more subtle look like I have, you can skip this step. I didn’t want the porch or stoop to stick out like a sore thumb from the sidewalk leading up to it, so I chose not to paint or stain a base layer.

Step Three: Stencil the Concrete

This step is where the magic starts to happen! Stenciling fun begins!

I suggest starting in the center of the most visible part of your patio or porch, so that your patten will be full/complete where people are most likely to look. For my stoop, I started at the very front, right in the middle.

Tape the stencil down at the corners with painters tape. Then, load a stencil brush with stain and dab off excess paint or excess stain onto a paper plate. You don’t want too much paint on the brush, or it will bleed under the stencil!

Dab that stencil brush all over the stencil to apply the paint or stain. When finished, lift the stencil, check for paint on the opposite side and wipe any off with a paper towel.

Then, place the stencil back down and repeat this process for the whole porch or patio!

For tricky spots that my stencil could not fit on (like in corners, on edges, or on the front of the stoop where the stencil was too large), I waited until the end. Then I cut apart the stencil to fit these spots, and this worked wonderfully!

I only applied one coat of stain, but the coverage was beautiful.

Step Four: Seal the Concrete

Alright, this last step is so important! As mentioned above, you really need to seal the stenciled concrete in order to protect your hard work.

Sealer can be applied with a brush, roller, or sprayer, and the Behr Low-Lustre Sealer dries to the touch in one hour. When applied and before it dries, it makes the stain look darker, but when it dries it will be exactly the same color as before.

Taking this final step will not add a lot of time to your project but it will add a lot of life to your stenciled floor!

Outdoor Concrete Stencils

If you’re thinking of stenciling your patio or porch but not quite sure what type of stencil to use, I have some suggestions!

Pick a simple pattern in a large-scale format. This will be easier to apply and take less time because you won’t have to move the stencil as frequently as you would a small stencil.

Here are some patio stencils and porch stencils that may be perfect for your project:

• Moroccan Tile Stencil (on my porch)
• Sunburst Tile Stencil
• Cottage Flowers Stencil
• Starburst Floor Stencil
• Modern Tile Stencil

****

I hope you found this project inspiring and helpful! Don’t be like me and wait so long to revamp your patio floors or concrete porch floor.

It will give you such a boost every time you see that cute stencil pattern bringing color and dimension to your space!

Learn how to make trendy faux ivy vine wall decor with twinkling fairy lights.

When my daughter and I set out to make over her bedroom and give it a bookish boho vibe, she insisted on having fake ivy vines behind her bed. Not liking the pre-lit artificial vines I found online, I decided to make DIY ivy wall decor for her.

To be honest, I just wanted to hang a painting over her bed. I didn’t like the idea of sticking fake vines on a wall and calling it decor.

But, she had her heart set on this faux ivy backdrop look, so I decided to make it happen. And, I had no idea how popular it would be. My DIY faux vine wall video on this project got over 34 million views on Instagram – holy smokes!

I guess it just goes to show you that I am old, and my daughter is young and hip. (Don’t tell her I said that!)

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

Faux Ivy Vine Wall Supplies

These are the supplies I used to make the light up ivy wall as shown in the post. Feel free to modify these items and materials to fit your needs!

• Wood piece (I used a 1 x 2 pine furring strip, cut down to approximately 5′ long)
• Hand saw and miter box (OR you can have a store employee cut the wood to size for you)
• Optional: paint
• Artificial vines (I used one package of these fake ivy vines)
• 10-strand battery-operated and remote-controlled fairy lights
• Utility stapler
• Scissors
• Small d-ring hangers
• Wall anchors & screws
• Screwdriver

How to Make a DIY Ivy Wall

Making your own vine wall is a great way to get the exact length you need, and also a really full look (unlike a lot of the premade ivy wall options out there).

And, the great thing is that this goes together very easily. It takes a little bit of time, but it is not difficult.

Step One: Air Out the Ivy

The ivy vines I used for this project worked great and were a wonderful price, but they were REALLY smelly. They came shrink wrapped and smelled awful when I unwrapped them. I let them air out on my screened-in porch overnight, and I suggest you air out your ivy, too! (That sounds so funny.)

Step Two: Prepare the Wood Backing

If your wood strip is not the correct length, begin by measuring and cutting it to size. (Remember: you can have wood cut to size at places like Home Depot and Lowes.)

Then, paint the wood strip if you want it to match the wall. In hindsight, I would have painted the wood the same color as the wall (Benjamin Moore Odessa Pink), because I think it would have looked better. Oh well. Learn from my mistake (unless you like the wood look, which is totally fine!)

Step Three: Cut the Faux Vines to Size

Measure the length of the wall you want to cover with ivy, and then use that measurement to determine where, if at all, you need to cut the faux vines.

For my daughter’s wall, we were able to cut each of the vines in half (roughly) and have them hang slightly behind her headboard.

For us, one package of faux ivy (cut in half) was enough to create the entire project.

Step Four: Staple the Vines to the Wood

Next, using a utility stapler, attach the vines to both sides of the wood.

I stapled ivy across the front of the board, and then carefully flipped the board over to staple ivy all along the back side.

Stagger the ivy on the front with the vines on the back; this helps give the ivy wall its full look.

Step Five: Staple the Fairy Lights to the Wood

Once the ivy is in place, it’s time to add the magical part of this wall decor: the twinkle lights or fairy lights!

For this step, it helps to work with the lights ON, as it’s easier to see where you’re placing them.

Also, it’s important to note that you should NOT staple through the wire! You will ruin the lights if you staple through them. Place the stapler so that the ends of each staple go into the wood around the light wire, but not through the wire. And, if the staple pinches the wire too close to the board and the lights turn off, use a flat head screwdriver to gently lift up the staple ever so slightly. This should turn the lights back on.

For the 10-strand lights I used, I carefully attached the wire connecting the battery pack to the back center of the wood.

Then, I worked strand-by-strand to attach the lights across the board. I definitely crimped a few wires along the way and had to lift up the staples as mentioned above. Don’t worry if this happens to you – you can fix it!

Step Six: Attach the Hanging Hardware

On the back of the wood, I attached two small d-ring hangers to the outside edges. I knew this would be an easy way to hang fake vines in my daughter’s room, but there are other ways you can do this, too. I will talk about alternatives later in this post.

Flip the wood over and staple a piece or two of ivy vine across the front of the wood board to help hide it.

Step Seven: Hang the Faux Vines Wall

With the hanging vines ready to go, I installed two anchors and screws in the wall above my daughter’s bed. Once those were in, she and I placed the ivy wall hanging vines on the screws.

The battery pack for the fairy lights hangs all the way to the floor, so it’s hidden behind her bed. The lights are remote controlled, so there’s no need to access that battery pack on a regular basis.

Alternative Ways to Hang Fake Vines

As with any project, there are always other ways to do things. In case you’re looking for some options, here are different ways to hang a faux ivy wall backdrop.

No-Damage Methods of Hanging Vines

If you’re not able to, or a fan of, putting holes in your walls, there are a couple of alternative methods for attaching vines on walls without damaging them.

If you make an ivy wall hanger like I show in this post, you could attach 3M Command Picture Hanging Strips to the back of the wood and attach the entire treatment to the wall that way. These Picture Hanging Strips can carry as much as 20 pounds (depending on the size of strips you use), so they will work for hanging vines.

If you don’t use a wood backer like I did, and instead are looking for a way to hang greenery vines directly on the wall, or hang ivy from the ceiling perhaps, you could use clear 3M Command Hooks. Simply place those on the wall and string the vines or ivy through the hooks.

Do Not Hang Vines With Tape

People have asked if you can hang vines with tape (regular or double sided tape). I do not recommend that. Any tape that would hold up the vines will damage the walls or surface to which you’re attaching it. So don’t even try it. 🙂

Add Curtains to Diffuse the Lights

If you’re looking for an extra-romantic or fairytale look, consider hanging curtain rods on the wall with sheer white curtains. Then hot glue ivy vines behind the curtains, and string fair lights around the curtain rod. This method could also be used for a pipe and drape setup, like at a wedding.

****

So, there you have it: a really easy method of making a lush and full ivy wall backdrop.

Although it’s not my favorite look in the entire world, my daughter’s smile made this whole process worthwhile. She loves it in the daytime, but when we turn it on at night, it is amazing.