DIY

The fireplace: a focal point of any room, but is it giving the look you want? If yours has seen better days, you’ll love these fireplace refacing ideas – especially because they’re ALL DIY fireplace remodels!

How do you modernize an existing fireplace?

So let’s be clear, the fireplace makeover ideas in this post are NOT new fireplaces, nor do they involve total demolition of any fireplace. Instead, they are all fireplace resurfacing projects.

This means that the existing fireplace – whether it be brick, stone, tile, or anything else – is covered with a new material. Covering or refacing an existing fireplace is an efficient and cost-effective way to modernize the look of your fireplace.

(Trust me: I know! We saved a ton of money by refacing our 1970s brick fireplace ourselves!)

Can I reface my own fireplace?

You might also be wondering how difficult it is to reface or resurface a fireplace. Of course each project varies in difficulty, but the examples listed in this post are all do-it-yourself fireplace remodeling examples.

This means that you can do it! With some patience and a can-do attitude, you can do anything! (And hey, if you decide it’s too big of a job for you to take on, I know you’ll find a contractor who can do it for you.)

What materials can be used to reface a fireplace?

Before taking on any fireplace project, make sure to consult your local fire code for rules about distance of combustible items from the firebox.

With that information in hand, you can decide what type of material you will use to make over your fireplace. Some common materials that are used to reface a fireplace include:

• stone and stone veneer (a popular product is called AirStone; it weighs much less than natural stone); refacing fireplace with stone is very popular
• wood (again: make sure to maintain a proper distance between any added wood and the firebox – covering brick fireplace with wood will require a portion of the fireplace NOT to be wood unless it’s an electric fireplace)
• tile
• cement or concrete (and faux concrete finishes)

Any of these materials is a great choice to reface a fireplace, or for covering a fireplace or fireplace surround!

15 Fireplace Refacing Ideas

With that information in mind, check out these inspiring ideas for refacing a fireplace!

With these ideas for ways to reface a fireplace yourself, you’re well on your way to giving that old fireplace a modern look!

A huge part of my wood slat fireplace makeover was revamping the beige hearth. To make it work with the “new” fireplace, I painted a faux soapstone finish.

It turned out AWESOME, and I am pumped to share how you can create a faux soapstone finish on any surface!

Painting a Fireplace Hearth

First things first: read this linked post if you’re specifically interested in learning how to paint a fireplace hearth. I painted the hearth in my living room years ago, and all of the products and instructions are in that post.

Then come back here to get the step-by-step for making it look like soapstone!

If you’re looking to create a soapstone look on any other surface, just keep reading!

What is Soapstone?

And, before we get into the details on how to paint a soapstone finish, you might wondering what exactly is soapstone?!?

Soapstone is a natural material – rock, to be precise – that has an aged black patina with varying shades of gray and white throughout. It’s more of a matte finish than marble typically is. It’s commonly used in countertops, and is also used as a fireplace hearth because it is not negatively impacted by heat.

How to Paint a Faux Soapstone Finish

I am writing out instructions for creating a soapstone finish, but you’ll also want to watch my video! Also, remember that this is much more of an art than a science!

Faux Finish Soapstone Supplies

These are the exact supplies I used. Some of these links are affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

• Americana Decor Satin Enamels paint in Classic Black
• Americana Decor Satin Enamels paint in Pure White
• Americana Decor Satin Enamels paint in Smoke Grey
• Thin artist paint brushes (at least two)
• 2″ chip brush
• Paint pail
• Paint mixing trays (or paper plates)
• Spray bottle
• Cheesecloth
• Natural sponge
• Paper towels
• Paint stir sticks
• Water

Instructions for Painting a DIY Faux Soapstone Finish

If you remember one thing from this tutorial, let this be it: LET THE WATER WORK ITS MAGIC.

Step One: Paint the Base Black

First up, paint a base layer of black paint. I painted two coats of Americana Decor Satin Enamels classic black, because the white primer was showing through after the first coat.

Depending on what you’re painting, this may actually be the second step, as you may need to prime first.

Step Two: Paint and Remove a Gray Wash Layer

Next, pour some of the black paint into the paint pail and add a couple of drops of gray paint. Mix this up, and then add some water to thin it down.

Again, remember this is an art, not a science. I do not have precise measurements for you. Just add a little bit of water at a time until you have a very thinned-down paint mixture that is slightly lighter than the black of your base coat.

Using the 2″ chip brush, paint this mixture onto part of the surface.

Then, use the cheesecloth to dab off much of the paint mixture. This will also leave a texture on the surface, which is exactly what you want.

It looks pretty terrible here. On the far left, the paint has dried, while the next section is still wet.

Repeat this painting and dabbing process across the entire surface to be painted like soapstone.

Once it’s dry, it will look like the below photo. Notice how the four sections are very visible – almost with a line between them? We will fix that!

Step Three: Sponge on Black Paint

Next, get out the natural sponge or sea sponge. Add black paint to the sponge, and dab off almost all of it onto a paper plate or other surface.

Then, dab the sponge in the areas where the section lines are, as well as around them, to help blend those lines and make the sections look like one continuous swath of soapstone.

Use a paper towel to soften the sponge texture left behind. Just gently dab up the extra paint.

Step Four: Paint White Soapstone Lines

Here’s where the real magic happens. I learned this technique when I painted my DIY faux marble countertop, and it works just as well here!

Start by looking up soapstone slabs online. Then, draw a diagram for yourself of where you want to paint lines on your piece. Looking at a real slab online will help you get a natural look!

Then, dip a thin artist brush in water, gently hold it, and drag it across the piece. Before the paint dries, spray it with water in the spray bottle, and let the water make that paint run and swirl.

The water makes the white paint look like actual soapstone veins.

If you aren’t getting the look you want with the water bottle sprayer alone, dip a clean brush in water and dab it along the white line. This concentrated source of water will greatly soften the look of the lines.

You can also use a paper towel to soak up extra water and blend the lines.

The Faux Soapstone Fireplace Hearth

My husband, who is not usually that excited about my projects, could not get over this faux finish.

It looks SO realistic!

And really, you can do this! Don’t overthink it. The beauty is in the imperfection. Nothing in nature is “perfect,” so let go of any pressure to make your faux soapstone perfect!

Of all of the DIY projects I’ve done, THIS one is my favorite. This wood slat fireplace – our DIY fireplace makeover – transformed an unusual 1970s fireplace in our bedroom into a gorgeous focal point that complements our home’s style.

I am so excited to share our fireplace renovation with you. If you attempt any fireplace renovations of your own, make sure to check local fire code first and abide by all requirements!

Fireplace Before: 1970s Brick Fireplace with Quirks

We thought it was pretty cool that our bedroom has a fireplace, but we didn’t love the way it looked.

On the left side was a small built-in candle holder, on the right was a small built-in ashtray (we think!), and then there was that shallow cabinet in the center.

The brass fireplace screen was identical to the one on our living room stone fireplace that I limewashed shortly after we moved in.

This fireplace was dated and made the whole room sad. Really.

The Fireplace Makeover: DIY Wood Slat Fireplace

We decided to reface our fireplace as a DIY project, because we received quotes ranging from $10,000 – $23,000 for this job. (The $23,000 quote included removing the step up into this part of the room – something we did not even want to do.)

Is that crazy or what?

Needless to say, we were determined to save that money and do it ourselves. And . . . here’s how we did it!

P.S. check out my blog post on 15 fireplace refacing ideas for more DIY inspiration!

Part One: Demolition and Electrical

Day one of this project was 100% in my husband’s domain. I left him to remove the candle holder, ashtray, cabinet, and brass fireplace screen. When he was finished, the fireplace looked like this.

He then ran electrical for the tv we would eventually be mounting.

He removed the baseboards running next to the fireplace, cut out the drywall there, and ran wiring from a nearby outlet up the side of the fireplace and into the box where the cabinet was.

This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please read my disclosure policy.

Part 2: Staining Wood Slats and Building a TV Box

In the freezing cold garage, I stained 35 wood slats. The slats we chose were pine lattice moulding measuring 11/16″ x 1 5/8″, and I used Varathane Premium Wood Stain in Dark Walnut, because this stain dries quickly and only needs one coat for great color.

While I was busy staining, my husband was filling in the gap left in the fireplace by the cabinet. He built a box to house the TV mount and plug, and then also added studs.

Part 3: Painting the Brick

The next day, I painted the brick surrounding the firebox with two coats of masonry paint. Our local code requires 6″ of non-combustible material on the sides of the firebox, so I made sure to paint the entire bottom half of the fireplace to be safe.

I used Behr masonry paint in a flat/matte finish in the color Carbon Copy. It’s a dark gray that has a lot of warmth to it. The coverage of this paint was great and it was easy to use.

Part 4: Covering the Brick with Underlayment

Then we measured the right front side of the fireplace and cut 3/16″ underlayment to fit over that section. Our Kreg AccuCut was essential for getting these cuts straight with our circular saw.

We attached the underlayment to the brick with a combination of construction adhesive and Tapcon Concrete Screw Anchors. We did our best to guess where slats would be going, and to put the screws in those spots we thought would be covered. (Spoiler alert: we didn’t guess right 100% of the time.)

Cutting and attaching the underlayment took a longgggggg time. And because brick isn’t totally flat, it was impossible to get the underlayment completely flat in all spots.

You might be wondering why we didn’t attach slats or studs to the brick and then attach the underlayment to that in order to get a flat surface. The reason is that per local code, if our facade stuck out a certain distance past the firebox, we would need more than 6″ of non-combustible material on the firebox sides. This would have made our slat design look really funny, so we needed to keep the underlayment as close to the brick as possible!

This made us a little nervous for how the slats would lie flat on top of the underlayment, but we got it to work out. I will fill you in on that later!

I then caulked all the seams and painted the underlayment the same color as the brick – Behr Carbon Copy.

Notice that I also painted along the ceiling. I did this because I learned from my friend Bre at Brepurposed that the slats will look funny along that edge if you see the white ceiling instead of the dark paint. I am SO THANKFUL I read Bre’s blog post and didn’t have to find that out the hard way.

Part 5: Attaching the Slats to the Fireplace

The following weekend is when the magic really started to happen. Attaching the wood slats to the fireplace is when our vision came to life!

We started by using a laser level to show a straight line at the far left edge of the fireplace. The straight line was not the same as the line of our underlayment!

To make sure everything looked straight when finished, we followed this laser level line and used brad nails only to attach our first wood slat. (For all of the other slats we used Liquid Nails and brad nails. Brad nails alone for the first slat gave us better control over the precise placement we were after.)

Next we attached our second slat where the underlayment and brick meet on the left side.

And then we did the third slat in between those two, and repeated this process on the other side.

This gave us the slat spacing we needed to work with for the rest of the fireplace. It was just about 3/4″, and we used the rubber end of a clamp as our spacer! It was the perfect size.

To get the slats to lay flush with the underlayment where there were protruding screws, we colored the screws with colored sidewalk chalk. Then we pressed the slat on top of the screw to transfer the chalk to the back of the slat. This gave us the precise placement of the screws on the slats.

Then we used a drill stop collar to make shallow indentations on the back of the slat where the screw would meet the slat. This was the perfect solution for getting the slats to lie flat on top of the screws that attached the underlayment to the brick!

Despite our best efforts, there were two spots where the screws were visible between the slats. To hide those, I filled them with wood filler, and then painted them to blend with the underlayment. I promise that you cannot see them at all.

We spent the entire day measuring, cutting, and attaching wood slats. In a few spots we used shims to accommodate for the uneven underlayment, and that worked great.

When we finished, I was ecstatic. It already looked so good!

Part 6: Painting the Hearth

The beige/yellow hearth didn’t work with the fireplace’s new look, and I decided I wanted a hearth that looked like soapstone. So, using the same process I used to paint my fireplace hearth in my living room, I got to work!

I painted a faux soapstone finish, and all of the details are in that linked post. Look how beautifully this turned out!

Part 7: The Finishing Touches

My husband found a super thin tv that works well in bright rooms (we have a skylight and two windows in here). He mounted it with an articulating tv mount that lets us pull the tv away from the fireplace and turn it any direction we like.

Note: tv’s can suffer heat damage if the fireplace gets too hot and if the tv is too close to the firebox. if you plan to hang a tv above a fireplace, make sure to tape a thermometer to the wall where the tv will hang, and then run the fireplace for at least an hour. Check the wall temperature to see if it’s too hot for the tv to hang there.

While he did that, I attached these pretty brass sconces to the sides of the fireplace to give it a more of a feminine feel. (To see my trick for using sconces without running any electrical, watch my TikTok video on magic light bulbs!)

DIY Wood Slat Fireplace Reveal

With all of that finished, our wood slat fireplace was all done!

I love it just like that, but it makes me REALLY happy to pop some vintage artwork on the TV and make it look like a painting! (Check out Vintage Art TV on YouTube to turn your own TV into a painting!)

We need a little side-by-side comparison action, don’t you think? (I didn’t paint the wall or ceiling; it looks different because I took the photos in different light. I did paint the window trim though!)

I’d love to hear what you think of this project. We worked so hard on it and are just thrilled with the results! Please reach out to me in the comments below or on social media!

The pile of scrap wood in my garage reached hoarder-level status: it was a dire situation. From it was born this wood table runner, which is an absolutely awesome DIY scrap wood project (if I do say so myself)!

I’ll give you my supply list, but know that you can tweak the plans for this DIY wood table runner to use up your scrap wood stash! Get creative and have fun (and stop tripping over your wood pile).

Wood Table Runner Supplies

These are the materials I used to build the table runner shown in this post. Some of the links are affiliate links, and you can read my disclosure policy for more information.

• Pine Boards:
  • 1×8 pine wood (cut down to a custom size for my table)
  • 1×2 pine wood, cut down to four 7.25″ long pieces (which is the actual width of the 1×8 pine board)
• Screen Trim (1/4″ pine)
• Brad Nailer (I truly love my brad nailer. It’s one of those things I never thought I’d use as much as I do! If you don’t have a brad nailer, you could use wood glue and clamps, though the project will take longer to finish.)
• Miter Saw (note: you could also use a circular saw or even a hand saw with a miter box!)
• Felt (acrylic craft felt works)
• E6000 multi-surface glue
• Wood stain (I used Minwax Fiesta Orange because I made this for a fall tablescape.)
• Paint brush

How Do You Make a Wooden Table Runner?

First up – measure the table on which you want to place the table runner so that you can make it the perfect size. Standard table runner sizes range from 36″ to 108″, but you can make a wooden table runner any size you like!

Next, cut the 1×8 pine piece to the desired size. I used my miter saw to cut down the board because I get a straighter cut that way. If you don’t have a miter saw, use a circular saw or even a hand saw!

To give the table runner some height, cut pieces of 1×2 pine into four, 7.25″ long pieces.

Then use the brad nailer to attach the feet to the bottom of the board. Try to evenly space them so that the board stays level once it’s set up on your table.

Here’s where the fun begins: creating the decorative pattern on the top. For this I used screen trim that was left over from my Flat Panel Door Makeover project.

I cut screen trim down to five, 7.25″ long pieces (the width of the 1×8 board serving as the base of the table runner), and attached those vertically to the center of the 1×8.

Then I cut twelve pieces of screen trim to run horizontally down the 1×8 board, on either side of the vertical pieces of screen trim.

I attached all of these pieces with the brad nailer. I eyeballed the spacing, but you could use a spacer if you are looking for perfection. :-). I figured that since this would be covered in “stuff,” I didn’t need it to be perfect.

After this, I stained the wood table runner, and then glued felt to the bottom “feet” to prevent the runner from scratching my table.

DIY Wood Table Runner

In the end, it came out awesome! The orange is such a great contrast with my Waller Green China Cabinet that I made over a couple years ago.

I also like that a wood table runner is an unexpected piece of table decor.

At the very least it could be a conversation starter at your next dinner party!

Summer backyard living is the best kind of living: agree or disagree?

I’m definitely on the “agree” side of that statement! Hanging on the patio is one of my favorite ways to unwind.

Looking at two telephone poles and part of a neighbor’s swing set sort of killed the easy living outdoor space vibe though. Because of that, I (with help from my husband) built a freestanding DIY outdoor privacy screen.

And I’ll show you how to build a decorative outdoor privacy screen of your own!

This wood privacy screen was a quick build: finished in a few hours over the course of a weekend.

And the best part? It’s totally freestanding. We didn’t dig any holes or pour any concrete.

Freestanding Privacy Screen Materials

These are the materials and tools I used to build the privacy screen planter as shown in this post. Feel free to substitute anything to make this outdoor screen your own! Also, this post contains affiliate links. For more information, please read my disclosure policy.

• Pressure-treated cedar tone 2×6’s (four cut down to 2′ each; four cut down to 6′ 2″ each; six cut down to 10.5″ each)
• Pressure-treated cedar tone 2×4’s (three cut down to 7′ each; two cut down to 32 1/8″ each)
• Deck screws (2.5″ long)
• Composite privacy screen panels, quantity 2 (substitute with lattice from the home improvement store if you don’t like a composite panel. This privacy screen planter from Gina Michele Blog uses lattice.)
• Metal spike
• Copper tube straps
• Miter saw (or a circular saw)
• Tape measure
• Drill or impact driver
• Level
• Pencil
• Dirt and plants

Why Build a Freestanding Privacy Screen?

Typically, privacy screens are fixed in the ground so that they don’t blow over.

Here, because we were placing the screen close to the telephone poles and there are all kinds of buried cables there (including our Internet cable, which got sliced twice during a recent landscaping project), we did not want to dig in the area.

(Also, helpful tip if you’re wanting to block any utility poles, boxes etc: check your utility company’s website for what is permitted. Most have information on what can be placed near their equipment and where.)

Even if you’re not facing the same issues we did, you may want to build a freestanding privacy screen (instead of a fixed screen), if you want to place it on a patio or deck, or if you plan to move and want to bring it with you!

This type of free standing outdoor privacy screen will work in any outdoor living space!

DIY Outdoor Privacy Screen Planter Instructions

Now that you know why we chose to build the type of privacy screen we did, let me show you how we did it!

Step One: Build the Planter Box

The first part of this DIY free standing privacy screen is building the planter box base.

To accommodate two of the composite privacy screen panels, I used my miter saw to cut pressure-treated 2×6’s into four 2-foot sections and four 6-foot, 2-inch sections.

Then I screwed the boards together to form a simple box without a bottom.

Then I attached six pieces of scrap 2×6 wood (cut down to approximately 10.5″ high), in the four corners and centers of each long run of wood. This helped give the box a little more stability.

Step Two: Attach the Privacy Screen Panel Supports

Once the planter box was constructed, my husband and I moved it to the installation location.

Then I cut three pieces of 2×4 pressure-treated lumber into 7-feet pieces.

We attached those pieces of lumber to the outside back of the planter box, and made sure each was plumb. This required a little bit of adjustment, but we finally got it right!

Once the three vertical supports were up, I cut two pieces of 2×4 lumber to serve as the top supports for the composite panels.

My husband screwed those in at an angle to attach them to the vertical supports.

Step Three: Check for Level

At this point we checked to make sure everything was level.

Spoiler alert: it was not. (Is it ever? Ha!)

To fix this, we leveled out the ground beneath with a rake, and propped up one part of the box base with some rocks.

Step Four: Attach the Privacy Screen Panels

The easiest part of all of this was attaching the gorgeous composite privacy screen panels to the frame we constructed.

If you’re not a fan of the composite panels we chose, you could easily modify this project and create a wood slat privacy screen, bamboo privacy screen, or even a DIY lattice privacy wall.

We simply screwed them onto the front of the frame. You could screw them onto the back of the frame if you wanted them to have a framed appearance. It’s totally your choice!

Step Five: Stake the Planter

For a little extra stability, I decided to stake the planter into the ground in the front of the box. All this required was driving a metal spike into the ground and attaching it to the inside front of the box with copper pipe straps.

Step Six: Fill the Planter Box

Finally, fill the planter with dirt and plants! This took 12 bags of topsoil and garden soil to fill. Yikes!

I planted grasses, which will get larger and fuller, vines to grow up the panel, and some coral belles for a little color.

This privacy screen planter was the perfect solution for blocking those utility poles! And also, I have to say that it looks pretty darn good with my DIY Vertical Planter nearby!

Let me know if you have any questions about this DIY outdoor privacy screen project or these panels! I always love to hear from you.

Even if you don’t have the space for an expansive garden in your yard, you can enjoy a summertime bounty with this DIY Vertical Herb Garden project!

Simple, pre-made supplies are all you need to make this DIY vertical garden. You can put the entire thing together in an afternoon!

Materials Needed to Make a Vertical Herb Garden

These are the materials I used to make the vertical garden as shown in this post. Feel free to substitute items to fit your own needs! Also, this post contains affiliate links. Read my disclosure policy for more information.

• Premade trellis (the trellis I bought is not available online. Here is a similar trellis)
• Exterior wood stain (if desired)
• Plastic wall planters (linked planters are similar as the ones I used in this post are no longer sold)
• Black spray paint
• Zip ties
• Exterior wood screws
• Drill
• Scrap wood block (optional)

How to Make a DIY Vertical Garden

There are all kinds of fancy, elaborate vertical gardens online that can cost you hundreds of dollars.

This isn’t one of them.

This vertical garden costs under $100 to make, and it is so easy you’ll have it together with your garden planted in no time!

Bonus that it looks cool, too! Even if you have a black thumb (like me) your garden will be interesting.

Step One: Prepare the Wall Planters

The wall planters I used are gray, but that was not the look I wanted. So, I spray painted them black.

Make sure to use a spray paint that’s suitable for outdoor use if you choose to paint your planters. Also, don’t paint the inside of the planters, as the paint may affect the plants you place inside.

I also drilled drainage holes in the bottom of the planters. They came with one hole pre-drilled, but I added a couple others just to be safe.

Step Two: Attach the Trellis to the Wall

Next, fasten the trellis to the wall so that the weight of the filled planters doesn’t make it topple over.

Because of the type of siding I have, we fastened the trellis to the siding with a piece of scrap wood in between. This may be unnecessary for your project: it all depends on your siding.

Make sure to use an exterior screw!

Step Three: Attach the Planters to the Trellis

Using zip ties, attach the planters to the trellis. It’s as easy as that!

Trim off the zip tie ends so they aren’t as noticeable.

Step Four: Fill the Planters and Enjoy the Vertical Herb Garden

Finally, fill the planters with potting soil and fresh herbs. I found that basil, thyme, and cilantro grew very well in my vertical planter. The lettuce got a little yucky.

This year I’m trying oregano, lemon basil, cilantro, sage, and thyme.

Every time I go outside to cut herbs for my dinner, I say I’m going farming. It’s so much fun!

Also, can I just say that I LOVE the way the cedar-toned wood contrasts with my Pewter Green siding? The addition of this vertical garden and the wood window boxes helped make the flat back of my house much cuter!

Have you tried vertical gardening? What would you grow?