Furniture

I was lucky enough (?) to get a weird little dresser / nightstand on a local resale website for $10.  From the posted photos it looked really cute!  But once I actually got it home, I found that it had strange holes all over it, was missing trim from the right side, and was filled with cat hair and other strange substances.  Short story – it was gross.  

It sat in my garage until my sister mentioned that she needed a little nightstand next to her bed.  Perfect!  I told her she could have this one.  All she had to do was buy the paint and hardware and I would do the makeover for her.

Last weekend this dresser and I spent some quality time together on the patio, and now she’s a bold turquoise beauty!  

This was a fun makeover because it involved a lot of troubleshooting and I got to use this brand of paint (affiliate link – see my disclosure statement here), which I had never tried before.  

I didn’t plan for the dresser to be two-tone, but after I started painting, I knew I wouldn’t have enough paint to cover the entire dresser with the color my sister chose.  So, I added some of this paint (affiliate link), to the original and made a lighter version, which I used on the body of the dresser.  

I think it was a happy accident to run out of paint, because I actually really like the subtle two-tone look!  

We got the awesome hardware at Hobby Lobby, which I just LOVE.  The brass and acrylic really updates the piece, in my opinion!  

I added some fun gold metallic paper as a drawer liner, and it helps bring the beauty inside the dresser as well!  

Now . . . I just hope my sister comes and picks up her new nightstand soon.  I need it out of my house!  My kids are determined to destroy it.  I found them blowing bubbles all over it the other day (insert mad face here).  Luckily they wiped right off.

What do you think of this dresser’s bold new look?  Too bright or just right?

-Bre

Give any surface a weathered paint look with this easy tutorial!

A couple of weeks ago I stumbled upon a new-to-me thrift store, and I was like a kid in a candy store.  My son . . . not so much.  He couldn’t wait to get out of there.

But I had really good luck and found this AMAZING end table from Ethan Allen for a bargain price.  It was a little outdated, scratchy, and worn, but I knew I could make it pretty again!

I let it sit for a few days, and then in the middle of the night . . . it came to me that I needed to give it a weathered paint look with some hints of coastal charm thrown in.  

I had never tried a finish like that before, so I was excited to get to work.  I’m happy to say that it turned out great and I now have lots of tips for you on how to get a distressed wood look with paint!  

Weathered Paint Effect Supplies Used

These are the supplies I used to achieve the finish as shown in this post. Modify them to suit your own needs! Also, this post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

• Sandpaper (220 grit)
• Chalk paint (I used Americana Decor Chalky Finish Paint in the colors Yesteryear, Relic, and Everlasting)
• Mixing cup
• Stirring stick
• Water
• Paper towels
• Chip brush
• Varnish
• Finishing wax (I used Americana Decor Creme Wax)

How to Create the Look of Weathered Paint

In just a few simple steps, you can create a weathered paint look on just about any surface! Here’s how I did it.

Sand (and Consider Priming)

First up, I gave the top of the table and the bottom shelf a good sanding because they were quite glossy.  Like super high gloss that did not match the rest of the table.  Not sure what was up with that.  

If the surface you’re painting on is very glossy, you should also sand. You might also consider priming the surface with an adhesion primer. (This is an absolute requirement if you aren’t using chalk paint!). I really love Behr’s Multi-Surface Primer if you go this route.

Trust me: it’s a bummer when you finish a paint job and it all scratches off!

Water Down the Paint

Once that was done and I wiped it all down, I mixed up some leftover chalk paint in the colors Yesteryear and Relic, and then I watered it down by about 30-percent.  

(You may recognize this color combo from the gray painted dresser makeover I did for my son’s bedroom.)  

If you want less of a coastal look with a bluish/gray hue, you could achieve a weathered wood look with a different base color, such as a mix of browns and creams.

I applied it to the table with a really cheap and bristly chip brush.  This is important because it gave a really uneven and streaky finish, which is what I wanted.  

(NOTE: If the surface you’re creating the weathered paint look on is not the color you want, or is not wood, you will want to paint it a solid base color first before applying this uneven coat with the chip brush.)

Here you can see how the first coat of paint went on – really brushy and with original wood showing underneath.  

You do this with a dry brush technique: meaning do not oversaturate your brush with paint!

Mix and Apply a Lighter, Thinner Coat of Paint

Once I’d covered the entire table like that and the paint had completely dried, I took the mix of Vintage and Relic (dark gray) paint and added in some chalk paint in Everlasting (white). Then I watered the mixture down to about 50-percent of it’s original consistency.  This stuff was really watery, which is exactly what I needed.

I dipped another chip brush in it to just barely get some color on there, and gently applied it to part of the table.

I let it sit like that for a few seconds, and then I wiped it off with a paper towel, making sure to remove much of the watered down paint, but leaving some.  

(Sidenote: it’s hard to wipe paint with one hand and take a photo with the other.  Talent, people.  Talent.)

It really gave a streaky and weathered look – just what I wanted!  

Seal and Top Coat the Weathered Wood Finish

Once the entire table dried, I sealed the top and bottom shelf with Americana Decor Varnish in Ultra Matte in order to really protect the finish.

Then I sealed the entire table (including the top and bottom shelf), with a coat of Americana Decor Creme Wax.

Once that dried, I buffed it and revealed a beautiful, subtle shine that looks perfect with the faux weathered wood finish.

Bonus: Line the Drawers

This has nothing to do with creating a weathered paint effect, but I just had to show you the little detail I added to put my stamp on this table.

I found an adorable placemat at Target . . . and cut it up . . .

and wouldn’t you know it’s the perfect drawer liner for my new table?

I think this little table that got a weathered wood look with paint is so cute now.

The aged wood appearance gives it so much character!

So what do you think of this table makeover and my attempt at a weathered paint technique? If you enjoyed it, you might also like to see this Denim Faux Finish Technique!  

This post contains affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

Last month I tested out spray chalk paint and blogged about my experience with it here.  Much to my surprise, a lot of people liked that post (yay!), and wanted to know all about the product.  Because of that, I figured that people might also want to know about spray wax and spray topcoat that can be used for finishing projects painted with spray chalk paint or hand painted with chalk paint.  So once again, I got to work testing it out and am sharing all the details on spray wax finishing for chalky finish paint projects. 

For those of you who may not be overly familiar with chalky finish paint, wax is a commonly used sealant or topcoat on pieces that have been painted with chalky finish paint.  It’s popular because it seeps into the paint to form a protective finish and produces a really beautiful and subtle sheen on the surface.

Wax typically comes in a tub (like this – my usual brand of wax) and is applied with a special wax brush (like this), or sometimes a lint-free rag (though that usually results in an uneven application).  It dries to a haze and then must be buffed to get a beautiful shine.

To me, wax didn’t seem like something that can be sprayed.  Because of that, I first decided to test out the Krylon Spray Wax on a dud of a project (a painted thrift store tray), in case it wasn’t going to work.  Most recently, I tested out the Rustoleum Chalked Protective Topcoat on a stool I painted with Rustoleum Chalked Spray Paint.  Although it is not a true wax product, it is a spray topcoat suitable for chalk painted projects.  Here are my thoughts on both of these products! 

Odor

The wax I usually use STINKS.  I’m talking “plug your nose because it smells like you doused your house in gasoline” stinks.  And that odor sticks around for a couple of days.  (Some other brands of wax like this have virtually no odor.)

Conversely, the Krylon spray wax did not smell nearly as bad.  While it DID have an odor, the smell dissipated after a couple of hours as opposed to a couple of days.

The Rustoleum Chalked Protective Topcoat had no real odor.

The bottom line is you will still need a well-ventilated area if you’re going to use spray wax or spray topcoat.

Application

Spray wax and spray protective topcoat could not be easier to apply.  It comes out of the can so smoothly and evenly.  A bonus of application of spray wax is that you do not need to purchase another supply – the wax brush.

There is definitely some overspray, however, so surrounding areas should be covered.  That’s not really an issue with regular wax. If you spray paint regularly, you may want to purchase this awesome pop up spray shelter, which protects your projects from debris flying onto them.  I love mine!

Time

I don’t think that applying wax by brush takes an extraordinarily long amount of time.  That being said, spray wax or spray topcoat may take slightly less time to apply.  (But any time saved may be negated during the buffing process (if applicable – see below.)

Sheen

Like regular wax, spray wax does have a slight sheen.  To me it didn’t seem as rich and velvety as the sheen that’s produced by brush-on wax, but it does give a nice look that’s not achieved with poly products.

I tried to capture the sheen achieved with the Krylon spray wax in this photo.  You can kind of see it in the top right corner, but it’s not the best photo. 

The Rustoleum Chalked Topcoat in matte gave a beautiful finish with a hint of sheen – not too dull and not too shiny.

Buffing

All waxes, once dried to a haze, must be buffed to produce a sheen.  To me it seemed that buffing spray wax was much more difficult than regular wax.  The finish felt stickier than regular wax (once dried), and it took a lot more buffing to remove the excess wax.  This could be a huge pain on a larger piece that’s been sprayed.  I really did not like this aspect of the spray wax.

Conversely, with the Rustoleum Chalked Topcoat, no buffing was required.  The finish dried nice to the touch with no stickiness, and the sheen was beautiful.

Discoloration

Although the Krylon spray wax appeared yellow on parts of the white paint to which I’d applied it, once buffed there was no visible discoloration of the finish.  In this photo you can sort of see the yellow I’m talking about (prior to buffing).  My experience with regular wax is the same.

I tested the Rustoleum Spray Protective Topcoat on a blue piece and did not notice any discoloration.

Spray Wax Durability

Wax is never the best finishing choice for pieces that will be getting a lot of use – like a table top.  With that being said, spray wax seems to be as durable as regular wax.  I tried scratching some of the sealed finish off, and it withstood my attempts.

And similarly, the Rustoleum Chalked Topcoat also seems to be quite durable, though I haven’t used it on a heavy-use piece.

The Bottom Line

So here’s where I ultimately come out on these products:

If you’re not regularly using chalky finish paint and don’t want to invest in a wax brush, spray wax or spray protective topcoat is probably perfect for you.  You will be able to get several projects sealed with one can (depending on the size of the projects, of course), and likely be happy with the finished product.

If you’re a chalky finish paint fanatic like me, you’re probably better off using your regular wax.  Since you already have the wax brush and maybe even a drill buffer, the cost will be less to continue using your wax and you will get the gorgeous finish you’re accustomed to – even if you’ve painted the piece with the Rustoleum Chalked Paint or the Krylon Chalky Finish Spray Paint.

Have you tried Krylon’s Spray Wax Coating or Rustoleum’s Chalked Protective Topcoat?  What do you think of it?  Let me know – I love to hear from you!

Bre

A beautiful nesting tables makeover project to inspire your own furniture makeovers!

Several months ago I was lucky to find a set of wood nesting tables for sale on a local resale website.  

They weren’t in terrible condition, but they did have water rings, damaged veneer in spots, and a scratched up floral motif painted on each of the table tops.

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

Nonetheless, I was PUMPED to get these babies into my possession. I knew I could make them gorgeous again.  

I promptly hid them in my basement storage area, hoping that my husband wouldn’t discover that I’d brought home yet another furniture project.  (Womp womp.  He found them and promptly began badgering me about when my “Russian dolls tables” would be out of here.)

With some elbow grease and TLC I got them spiffed up, and now my painted nesting tables look better than ever!

Strip the Nesting Table Tops

To get these tables looking beautiful again, I started by stripping the tops to reveal the gorgeous pattern on the veneer.

I used CitriStrip, and the floral motifs and original stain came off pretty easily!

It was hidden beneath the floral artwork and barely noticeable before!  I also sanded around the edges, which were pretty rough.

Stain and Poly the Table Tops

I then stained the tops with dark walnut stain, and sealed them with satin wipe-on polyurethane.

I let the table tops dry for a couple of days.

Paint the Table Legs with Chalk Paint

Once that dried, I got to work painting the legs with Country Chic Paint in Elegance, which is a dusty blue color.

This beautiful blue color immediately brought out the ornate detailing in the table legs and bases!  

One coat of Elegance was enough to give a slightly distressed look and really make the details pop!

Once the paint dried, I sealed that painted portions of each table with clear wax.

I think the finished product is just gorgeous!

To me, it does justice to the vintage look the tables had when I got them, but also gives them an updated look that works wonderfully with today’s decor trends!  

While I was photographing my refinished nesting tables, somebody got a little jealous and insisted on being the center of attention. 😉

I think he’s too cute not to share, even though he has a naughty little smirk on his face!  

I finally got him to move with the promise of some candy corn. (Bribery works, people!)

These painted nesting tables make me happy. I love how they turned out and I hope I’m lucky enough to find another set for sale in the future. They’re not that easy to find!

-Bre

One thing I love is giving a plain object new life and personality with a simple change.  Sprucing up my beat up dining chairs by stenciling the seats is precisely that kind of project!

With just a little patience and some paint, I was able to take my kitchen chairs from boring to beautiful in no time. 

After six years of use, my white kitchen chairs were getting a little beat up.    The seats were in especially poor condition due to my kids’ use of a portable booster seat on top of them.  It scratched the painted finish off of almost every seat.  

I always toyed with the idea of repainting the chairs, but I pretty much despise spray paint because I never do it correctly (duh). Since the easy way out wasn’t an option, I was just going to leave them. Brush painting these chairs was too much work for me.

But then a lightbulb went off in my head: stencil the chair seats to fix the problem left by the booster seat and give the chairs a totally cool new look at the same time!

Supplies Needed to Stencil Chair Seats

This post contains affiliate links. Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

• Cutting Edge Stencils Nagoya Craft Stencil (size small)
• Americana Decor Chalky Finish Paint in Vintage
• Americana Multi-Surface Paint in Cottonball
• Spray adhesive
• Mini paint roller and tray
• 2″ Paint Brush
• Painter’s Tape
• Screwdriver
• Sandpaper (220 grit)
• Polyurethane (or some other sealer)

Stenciled Chair Seats: How to with a Lasting Finish

If possible, unscrew the the seats from the chairs. This will make it much easier to paint the seats and add the stencil design.

Next, clean the seats (any any other part of the chairs that you’re painting). You can use a Magic Eraser, or clean it with a pre-paint cleaner that doesn’t leave a residue (like Krud Kutter or TSP).

Now, give the seats a scuff sanding, and wipe off all of the dust. Then, paint the seats whatever base color you’d like. For this project, I chose Americana Decor Chalky Finish Paint in Vintage (a soft blue green color).

Let the paint thorougly dry, and then apply a light coat of spray adheisve to the back of the stencil you’re using. The spray adhesive not only holds the stencil in place, but it also prevents paint from bleeding through or seeping through the stencil pattern and ruining the crisp lines you’re after.

Press the stencil onto the middle of the chair seat, and then place painter’s tape on the edges of the stencil for extra hold.  The painter’s tape is probably unnecessary, but I like to play it safe.

Next, dip the roller into the Americana Multi-Surface Paint and remove as much of the paint as possible from the roller. You want to use as little paint as possible here.

Then, gently roll over the entire stencil.  

Once the first coat dried, I applied another.  TIP:  If you’re impatient like me, get out your hair dryer and speed up the drying process.

After the second coat of paint dries, gently remove the stencil. Match it up with an already painted edge, and stencil the next section.

Repeat this process until the entire chair seat is stenciled.

Once all of the stenciling is complete, seal each of the stenciled chair seats with polyurethane. This will protect your hard work!

Reattach the chair seats by screwing them back onto the chair frames.

Then sit back and enjoy the new look of your old chairs!

Stenciling old furniture is such an amazing way to give it a whole new life. It’s a win for the environment and for your wallet!

Would you try to make over a set of old chairs with a stencil? Let me know in the comments section below!