DIY

Helpful Gel Stain Tips & Tricks for a Perfect Finish

May 11, 2020 by Bre 57 Comments

Over the years I’ve used gel stain on many home maintenance and furniture makeover projects, and I’ve learned a lot! Gel stain is an amazing tool for reviving wood, but it can be tricky to use if you’re not prepared. Because of that, I am sharing my most helpful gel stain tips and tricks that will make a difference in the quality of your gel stain projects.

This post contains affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

What is Gel Stain?

Since you’re visiting this post, you probably already know what gel stain is. But, just in case you don’t, gel stain is a thick stain that sits on top of the wood finish instead of penetrating the wood like regular stain does.

It is awesome to use on previously-stained wood, as it allows you to change the color of the wood and refinish it without stripping it to bare wood. For example, at my old house, I refinished my front door with gel stain, and in my new house, I’ve refinished stair railings, stair treads, and a china cabinet top. Most recently, I painted my front door with gel stain to make it look like wood!

Gel stain can also be used on raw wood or unfinished wood, but you’ll need to take some extra steps, which I’ll fill you in on below!

Why Use Gel Stain?

In my opinion, the main reason why you would use gel stain instead of traditional stain is if you’re changing the color of wood that’s previously been stained. It is easy to re-stain wood with gel stain, but requires a lot more work to re-stain wood with traditional penetrating wood stain.

If you are staining raw wood, I personally would use penetrating stain as it is less expensive than gel stain and gives a better finish on raw wood than gel stain. I personally do not like how dark gel stain looks on raw wood.

Gel Stain Tips and Tricks

OK, enough of the background info! Let’s get down to the best gel stain tips and tricks, which I’ve compiled over the last several years of working with gel stain on various projects.

Wear gloves while working with gel stain.

You do not want to get gel stain on your hands. I repeat, you do not want to get gel stain on your hands! It is sticky and difficult to get off of your skin. Because of that, make sure to wear rubber gloves or disposable latex gloves while applying gel stain!

What is the best way to apply gel stain?

For large swaths of wood (like a tabletop), I like to use stain pads to apply gel stain. Stain pads allow you to cover a large area of wood while maintaining a lot of control over the application.

For smaller areas, foam brushes are my gel stain applicator of choice. Foam brushes are great because they’re disposable, and gel stained brushes are a mess I personally would not want to clean up. Foam brushes also apply gel stain evenly and don’t leave brushstrokes in the finish.

How long do I leave gel stain on before wiping off excess?

Make sure to read the directions on the gel stain can, as it will tell you how long to leave on the gel stain before wiping off.

Generally, I wait around 3 minutes before wiping off.

If you wipe off too soon, you will not see a difference in wood color.

If you wait too long to wipe off, the gel stain will start to dry and will become very difficult to remove.

How do I get the right shade or color of gel stain?

Generally speaking, it is MUCH easier to use gel stain to achieve a darker wood color on a previously finished piece of wood than it is to get a lighter color.

Layering coats of gel stain (per manufacturer directions), will result in a more opaque finish that is darker and shows less of the woodgrain. This type of finish looks more like paint than stain.

Also, you can layer different colors of gel stain, or mix different colors of gel stain, to achieve custom shades. This is especially useful if you’re trying to color match an existing wood tone.

How do I fix areas of gel stain that have dried too quickly?

If you have gel stain that has started to get tacky before you were able to wipe it off, dip a rag in mineral spirits and apply a little bit to the problem area. The excess gel stain should come up easily. Once the area has dried, recoat with gel stain and wipe off within the proper timeframe.

Be careful not to apply gel stain to areas where the gel stain was not removed with mineral spirits or you will create an uneven finish.

If the gel stain has totally dried, sand it off and start the process over again.

Do I need to sand before applying gel stain?

For previously finished wood, yes, you need to sand before applying gel stain. Generally, you need to sand enough to scuff up the existing finish and make the surface even. You DO NOT need to sand down to bare wood. This is what makes using gel stain an advantage on previously finished wood.

For raw wood, yes, you also need to sand before applying gel stain. This will open up the grain and allow the gel stain to create an even richer and more even color.

Do I need to use Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner with Gel Stain?

If you’re applying gel stain to previously stained wood, you probably do not need to use pre-stain wood conditioner. You may consider it if your wood piece, once sanded, seems uneven or damaged. The wood conditioner will not hurt anything but can only help.

If you’re applying gel stain to raw wood, you absolutely need to use pre-stain wood conditioner! Pre-stain conditioner helps prevent blotchy absorption and/or patchy spots in your finish. As I said earlier, I wouldn’t use gel stain on raw wood, but if you are doing it for some reason, make sure to use a pre-stain conditioner first!

Should I seal or topcoat gel stain?

Yes! You should definitely seal or topcoat gel stain projects.

Once dry, gel stain has a naturally “glossed” look, which may lead some to believe it does not need to have a topcoat applied. However, it really must be protected with polyurethane or some other “tough coat” or “performance topcoat,” in order to give it the protection it needs.

I like to use fast-drying polyurethane or this performance topcoat for indoor surfaces, and Spar Urethane for outdoor surfaces like doors.

***

Those are my top gel stain tips and tricks, and I hope they help you achieve a finish that you love! Let me know if you have any to add. I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!

-Bre

How to Paint a Countertop to Look Like Marble!

April 10, 2020 by Bre 26 Comments

Learn how to paint a countertop with a finish that lasts!

I LOVE a good home transformation experiment, and today’s post showcases an amazing one! I’m going to show you how to paint a countertop to look like marble.

I painted my granite countertop in my powder room and I achieved a convincing marble finish! And guess what? You can, too – on any type of countertop (laminate, formica, granite, cultured marble, and more)!

Before we dive in, let me show you what I was working with in my powder room. Dated oak vanity, busy tile wall backsplash, and a dark and dated granite countertop that was REALLY busy with that crazy tile wall.

(UPDATE: I painted the tile wall! Visit that link to see the newest updates to this bathroom! Also, here’s my two-year update on how this painted countertop is holding up!)

On a whim one day, I decided to paint the vanity with paint I purchased as a possibility for my painted marble fireplace hearth. I didn’t end up using that color for the hearth, but I’m glad I saved the paint because it worked great in this bathroom.

New paint and new hardware on the vanity (as well as on the baseboards and mirror), helped spiff up this bathroom, but the countertop still really bugged me.

We will be replacing our kitchen countertops in the near future, and I planned to replace this bathroom countertop at that time as well. Since I had that already in mind, I decided to try painting my granite countertop first, just to see if and how it would work. I figured that if it looked good, I’d save myself some money, and if it looked bad, I will have only wasted around $80.

Although the painted countertop is not perfect, it turned out MUCH BETTER than I expected!

Supplies Used to Paint a Countertop to Look Like Marble

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Because I painted a granite countertop, some of my prep work may have been different than will be required for those painting countertops made of different materials.

In my experience, the key to painting a granite countertop is in the prep work and in the sealer. Because of that, it’s important to pay special attention to these steps!

I began by researching the Giani Marble Countertop Finish Kit, which includes everything you need to paint your countertops to look like marble. Giani, the manufacturer of this kit, has an awesome video about the painting process, and this video really got me intrigued.

I quickly realized that the Marble Countertop Painting Kit contained enough product to paint a kitchen’s worth of countertops, and that I didn’t need nearly that amount of paint or product. So, I figured out what I wanted and purchased the following items separately:

Xylene (this is a MUST HAVE when painting granite. TIP: buy this at a local store. Amazon charges exorbitant amounts for it.)
Rubbing alcohol (also a MUST HAVE when painting granite)
Step 1 white primer paint
Step 2 gray paint for veining
Step 3 epoxy sealer
2″ foam brush
1/4″ nap roller (TIP: See my note below about possibly using a foam roller instead)
Small artist’s brush
2″ brush
Roller tray
Painter’s tape
Painter’s tarp
Clear acrylic caulk
Rubber gloves

I got all of my supplies for under $100, which was less than the price of the kit. (Note that the kit does not include Xylene.)

How to Paint a Countertop to Look Like Marble

If you follow the instructions and are patient, I believe you can also paint your countertop for a lasting finish!

Step 1 for painting a granite countertop: PREP and CLEAN

I started by cleaning the countertop and then wiping it down with Xylene, which smells AWFUL. Make sure to open a window while using this solution. After the Xylene dried, I wiped it down with rubbing alcohol, per the instructions online.

Then I placed painter’s tape around the edge of the countertop and covered the vanity with a tarp.

Step 2 for painting a countertop to look like marble: PRIME

Next, I primed the entire countertop with the white countertop paint. After one coat it looked pretty streaky, but the video warned that this would be the case so I wasn’t worried.

After four hours, I applied the second coat of primer. It definitely looked better, but there were still spots where dark granite was shadowing through, or divots in the granite didn’t get filled.

Because of that, I applied a third coat of white primer the next morning. The instructions say you only need two coats, but I definitely needed three coats of primer for my dark granite. After three coats of white primer, all of the dark granite was covered.

Step 3 for painting a granite countertop: VEINING

After third coat of primer dried for four hours, I decided to try some veining to give my painted countertop a true marble look!

I watched the Giani video again and used the techniques shared there to create what I think are very authentic-looking marble veins with one of their second-step gray countertop paints!

I made sure not to add too many painted marble veins, as I did not want to have the countertop be too busy.

Step 4 for painting a granite countertop: SEAL WITH EPOXY

This final step was the scariest in the entire countertop painting process: sealing the painted countertop with epoxy freaked me out! I had never worked with epoxy, so I wasn’t totally sure what to expect. But, I put on my game face and got to work.

I mixed up the epoxy (with the activator) per the instructions and poured it onto the countertop. I used the roller with 1/4″ nap as recommended, but if I were you, I would use a foam roller instead. The 1/4″ nap roller left lint everywhere!

I had to get as much out of the epoxy as I could with tweezers, but there was too much to remove before the epoxy set up (in about 30 minutes). You would not have a lint problem of this magnitude if you use a foam roller!

As a result of my roller problems, there are visible lint bubbles in my finish. I may be sensitive to them and others may not really notice them, but they are definitely there and mar the finish, in my opinion.

Aside from this, the epoxy is what transforms the painted countertop from looking, well, painted, to looking like a shiny, marble finish. Painted countertops with epoxy sealers are durable and the best looking painted countertops out there. I’m not saying it looks identical to marble, I am just saying that the epoxy elevates the finish in a way that paint alone cannot.

Step Five for Countertop Painting: CAULK

Prior to using the countertops, I added a line of clear acrylic caulk around the countertop and the backsplash to help seal the edges. After two days we were able to use our bathroom again.

Again, I painted a granite countertop to look like marble. It’s not perfect, but it’s a definite improvement. The Giani Marble Countertop Paint Kit or paint products enclosed in the kit, along with the company’s awesome video tutorial, make the marble countertop look accessible to all.

If you’re on a budget or don’t want to deal with getting countertops replaced, I recommend using the Giani paints and epoxy to paint a countertop to look like marble.

Make sure your expectations are realistic, watch their video, and read others’ reviews of the products on Amazon, as all of these things will help you get the best finish possible!

I, for one, am very happy with the look of my painted countertop, and I’m glad I took a chance in painting it instead of replacing it! Make sure to see how these countertops have held up over the past two years!

DIY Accent Wall: How to Paint a Grid Accent Wall

February 26, 2020 by Bre 2 Comments

In my old house, you saw a beautiful staircase and arched doorways when you walked in the front door. In my new house, you see a large wall and a 1970’s-style funky staircase with ugly carpeting. Not exactly the best first impression. (This is the photo from the real estate listing. Yes, multiple people asked if we’d be negotiating for the stager’s “come in we are awesome” sign. :-))

Because of that, I needed to make the foyer feel more like “us” – not too serious but still put-together (most of the time). On a whim I decided to paint a DIY accent wall to greet visitors to my home, and I think it turned out adorable! I used trash (yes trash) and craft paint to paint this fun grid accent wall, and I can’t wait to show you how easy it was to add some style to my foyer!

So first off, let me remind you that I’m no stranger to the DIY accent wall. A couple of years ago I added an adorable-but-subtle accent wall to my old home by putting up vinyl decals in a pattern to look like wallpaper. I loved the burst of personality this added to a large blank wall, so I figured I would like something similar here.

What Supplies Do You Need to Paint an Accent Wall?

This post contains affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

To paint this grid accent wall in my new home, I only needed a few supplies:

Craft paint (I used DecoArt Multi-Surface paint in Cactus)
Artist’s brush
Bowl of water
Pencil
Laser level (note: you could use a regular level if you don’t have a laser level)
Junk cardboard, foam, cardstock, poster board – anything with a little heft will do!

How Do You Paint a Grid Wall?

To begin, I fired up my laser level (which also came in handy for my vinyl decal accent wall!), and centered the red line cross on the wall I was going to paint. When I had the red laser lines positioned where I wanted, I traced them onto the wall with a pencil.

Next, I grabbed a rectangular piece of foam padding that was in the box for my beautiful new rattan media console, and I held it parallel to the first vertical line that I’d drawn. I traced along the edge of it, and brought it all the way down from ceiling to floor.

I repeated this “hold the foam, trace the line” process until the entire wall was covered in perfectly-spaced vertical lines. If you try this, you could use ANY rectangular piece of cardboard/foam/paper that has some heft to it, which will allow you to trace along the edge. You’re not limited to trash foam from my media console – ha!

Then I did the same thing with the horizontal lines: I placed the foam parallel with the first horizontal line and traced along the edge; moving the foam from one side of the wall to the other.

When this was finished, I had a pencil grid on the entire wall. This part of the process took about 20 minutes tops. So fast!

Next, I got out my craft paint stash and found this lovely shade of green craft paint. I used craft paint because I had it already and I didn’t want to go to the store. 🙂 Regular latex paint would also work perfectly!

I started by painting over the vertical pencil lines, making sure to vary the thickness of each stroke. I intentionally wanted this DIY accent wall to be imperfect – no precise lines here!

And then . . . you guessed it . . . I painted over the horizontal pencil lines . . . starting at the top and working my way down.

This entire painting process took around 40 minutes.

With my DIY grid accent wall complete, I moved my new console table into place.

And then I got to work on my favorite part: accessorizing!

I rounded up a vintage painting I scored for $15, some other vintage finds (including the wicker tray, brass bowl, and postal scale), some big box store scores from years past (including the sunburst mirrors, pitcher and lamp), and my FAVORITE item: a watercolor family portrait painted by my nine-year-old daughter!

How CUTE is this little spot (and the doggie)???

Let’s do a quick recap: for $0 and an hour of time, I painted the cutest DIY accent wall in a fresh grid pattern. Not bad, right?

If grids aren’t your thing, maybe you could try something different. Perhaps a brushstroke accent wall, imperfect polka dot accent wall, crosses – whatever! The point is that with no skill and no money (or very little money), you can add personality to your home. So be encouraged and go get it done! 🙂

-Bre

How to Wallpaper a Bookcase with Peel and Stick Wallpaper

February 12, 2020 by Bre 16 Comments

Learn how to use peel and stick wallpaper on the back of any built-in or bookcase for an easy update!

I thought I was excited about the limewash fireplace makeover I completed on my 1970s stone fireplace. But then I finished this project, and I was even more excited

Updating the mirrored built-ins on either side of the fireplace was a game changer. Painting the orange oak and adding wallpaper behind the shelves (to cover the mirrors that were there) transformed my living room instantly!

And . . bonus . . it was very budget friendly.

This post contains affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

In case you haven’t been following my progress on Instagram, here is what one of the mirrored built-ins looked like after the fireplace makeover but before I got to work.

So reflective.

Built-In Makeover Part 1: Bulk Up the Trim

I started by ripping off the top piece of trim on each built-in, simply because I thought it was a little flimsy and I wanted it to be a bit more substantial.

Once that trim was down, I built craftsman-style headers with two 1×2 pieces of lumber and one 1×4 piece of lumber per header.

I used this tutorial for building craftsman window trim as a guide, but modified the tutorial to just use my trusty Ryobi brad nailer instead of screws. Much easier, in my humble opinion.

And yes, I did all of the building myself. I also installed them myself, though my husband held them in place while I nailed them up so they wouldn’t move out of place. (If you do this please make sure to find studs to nail into!)

Once I had the new headers on the built-ins, they already looked nicer!

Bookcase Makeover Part 2: Prime and Paint

Next, I removed the shelves from the built-ins and admired myself in the mirrors. It was wonderful. (ha! Just kidding.)

I cleaned all of the woodwork, including the shelves. I used TSP but another great pre-paint cleaner is Krud Kutter.

Then I primed the built-ins and the shelves. I used the same Multi-Surface Primer that I used on my painted marble fireplace hearth, and I’m so glad I did because the shelves had A LOT of stains. That primer is amazing because it sticks to almost any surface AND it blocks stains.

I set up folding tables all over my house and painted away. My family wasn’t really thrilled but I told them sometimes you have to suffer for beauty.

After priming, I painted with Behr Cabinet & Trim Enamel paint in Manchester Gray.

The Cabinet & Trim Enamel was a great paint to work with. It had very little odor, covered well, and self-leveled nicely (meaning fewer brush strokes).

I used a synthetic brush to paint it on, as well as a 1/4″ nap foam roller to roll it on wider swaths of the built-ins as well as the shelves.

It took two coats of paint (plus the primer) to cover the old oak bookcases. But they looked soooooooo nice.

Built-Ins Makeover Part Three: Wallpaper Behind the Shelves

I let the paint cure for a few days, and then I got to work covering the backs of the bookcases (Mirrors! Why????) with peel and stick wallpaper.

My original plan was to cover large foam boards with fabric and rest those foam boards in the backs of the shelves, but I changed my mind and chose to use this peel and stick grasscloth wallpaper instead.

Now, I somehow deleted all of the photos showing the process. I wish I could SHOW you how I did this, but I will do my best to explain it without pictures.

To hang peel and stick wallpaper in a bookcase, behind shelves, I gathered these supplies:

Level
Tape measure
Pen
Scissors
Wallpaper smoother and knife kit
White crayon (specific to hanging peel and stick wallpaper on a mirror); Sharpie marker will work for non-mirrored surfaces.

I started by measuring the length of the back of the bookcase and cutting a piece of wallpaper a little longer than that.

Because my peel and stick wallpaper wasn’t wide enough to cover the whole back of the built-in, I measured the width of the wallpaper and marked that width on the back of the bookcase. I did that all the way down the bookcase, and then connected those dots with the level to make a straight, vertical line going down the back of the boockase.

This line gave me a visual reference of where the right edge of the wallpaper should go in the bookcase, so that it would remain straight.

Because I was writing on a mirror, a white crayon worked perfectly. If you’re going this on a painted surface (or wood), you can use a Sharpie marker.

I peeled back about 6 inches of the wallpaper backing paper and pressed the first part of the wallpaper into place, starting at the top – making sure to keep it aligned with that line I drew down the bookcase.

I used the wallpaper smoother to remove air bubbles as I went along. This was really tricky on the mirror, but it was doable. If you’re putting wallpaper onto a painted or wood bookcase, this will be much easier!

I repeated this process all the way down to the bottom of the built-in, and then cut the excess wallpaper with the utility knife.

Then, I measured the remaining width of bookshelf back to be covered with paper, and cut the next strip of wallpaper to a little wider than that. And again, I cut the length just a little longer than the length of the bookcase.

This time I used the edge of the wallpaper I’d already placed as my guide, and worked all the way down the bookcase.

Once the paper was smoothed and in place, I cut any excess at the side and bottom with the utility knife.

I really wish I had photos of the process, but all I can show you is how that peel and stick grasscloth wallpaper looks in my newly re-finished built-ins!

P.S. you may notice we removed the carpet and had luxury vinyl plank floors installed. That’s part of the reason I decided to paint the built-ins – I think there would’ve been too many wood tones happening.

And no, we don’t have the baseboards in yet. 🙂

Do you need a BEFORE photo to remind you where I started? (I think you do!)

Totally different, huh? So much less shiny!

Instead of being an eyesore, these built-ins are now a perfect place for me to display my thrifted and vintage finds, family photos, and other little decor items I love.

The baskets on the bottom are also a perfect place to store blankets and other random junk I don’t want out on display!

I’m proud to say that those two baskets are the only new things I bought to style these shelves, as I had everything else already. Yay for being fiscally responsible! 🙂

If you have dated built-ins that could use some new personality, give this a try! Painting the bookcases and adding wallpaper to the backs can give them a whole new life!

How to Paint a Marble Fireplace Hearth in Four Easy Steps!

January 27, 2020 by Bre 2 Comments

Looking to update a fireplace hearth without spending a ton of money? Learn how to paint a fireplace hearth with the instructions in this post!

I recently shared the first makeover in my new house – my limewashed stone fireplace – and I am thrilled with the impact it made in the living room! As part of that makeover, I also had to paint the fireplace hearth because it stuck out like a sore thumb once the orange stone on the fireplace facade was limewashed.

See what I mean in this before picture?

Painting the marble hearth was a little risky because I wasn’t sure if it would actually work, but I painted and stenciled the tile hearth in my old home, so I decided to chance it here, too!

I’m happy to report that the painted marble finish is beautiful and it’s holding up fantastically. 2024 UPDATE: We have fires in here regularly in the winter, and there have been no issues with paint bubbling, peeling, or cracking!

This painting process will work on hearth surfaces other than marble, and will also work on marble, tile, and concrete fireplace surrounds.

This post contains affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

Supplies Needed to Paint a Fireplace Hearth

This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please read my disclosure policy.

These are the materials I used to paint the marble fireplace hearth shown in this post. The good news is that even if your hearth is a different surface, the same supplies will work! The key is in the adhesion primer, which will allow the paint to stick to many surfaces.

Behr Multi-Surface Primer
Americana Decor Satin Enamels Paint (I used the color Neutral Beige. And note: in early 2024 the company changed the name of this paint at some retailers to “Your Home.”)
Small foam roller and tray
1.5″ paint brush
TSP
120 grit sandpaper

How to Paint a Fireplace Hearth

It was so easy to paint my fireplace hearth, and it only took four steps. You can do this project in a matter of hours! The hardest part is waiting for the paint to dry.

Step One: Sand the Hearth

As with all painting projects, the first step is preparation. Preparation is so important for getting a quality finish!

I always want to get to the “pretty part,” but for a slick surface like marble, this step is not to be missed. So, make sure to use a finer grain sandpaper (I used 120 grit) and lightly rough up the marble hearth.

Sanding is also important for any other hearth surface you may be painting: granite, tile, concrete, and more.

Step Two: Clean the Hearth

Next, you need to clean the hearth. Think about the gross stuff that accumulates on a hearth over time. Dust, dirt, ash . . . the list goes on and on. And, with the roughed up surface you’ve just created by sanding, you definitely don’t want to skip this step.

Mix up some TSP, which is a great cleaner to use before painting (it even says so on the box – ha!), and wash the entire hearth.

Check out this other painted fireplace hearth project! I painted it to look like soapstone!

Step Three: Prime the Marble Hearth

Next up comes priming! Because marble is porous and slick at the same time, you MUST PRIME before painting! I don’t care if you’re using paint that tells you don’t have to prime (like chalk paint), you absolutely must prime the hearth prior to painting it.

This is true for any surface your hearth may be: concrete, tile, and more.

For this project, I used Behr Multi-Surface Primer because it specifically says that it works on glossy surfaces. I wanted to make sure that the primer and paint I used didn’t wipe right off, so I gave the product a try.

First I applied a thin coat of primer with a brush along the rough edges of the hearth.

Then, I applied a thin coat on the top of the hearth with a tiny foam roller, and it worked wonderfully.

I let the primer dry for a few hours until I was sure it was ready for a topcoat. The fireplace looked better with just primer on it.

2024 UPDATE: This multi-surface primer is my go-to primer now. I used it for just about everything. The fact that it adheres to just about everything and also blocks stains at the same time is fantastic.

Step Four: Paint the Marble Hearth

Finally, the moment you’ve been waiting for! The actual paint gets to be applied!

For my marble fireplace hearth, I chose to use Americana Decor Satin Enamels Paint in Neutral Beige. I used this paint because it’s a multi-surface paint that self-seals – meaning it doesn’t need a topcoat!

I previously used this paint on my blue painted bathroom vanity makeover and in my mom’s bold powder room green vanity makeover, so I knew it has a durable finish with a sheen that I like.

I used the same process of painting the edge of the hearth with a brush and rolling the paint on the top of the hearth with a foam roller.

After two coats of paint the marble was flawless and looked amazing with the newly limewashed fireplace stone. Thank goodness the orange hearth was gone!

I know marble is not typically a surface that gets painted, but in this case, I just had to update it.

I have a feeling there are others out there living with dated marble fireplace hearths or ugly marble fireplace surrounds, too, who are hesitant to paint their marble. I say just jump in and do it! This is an easy project with a huge return.

Next up, I will be showing you the makeover I’m giving the built-ins that flank this fireplace! They’re looking beautiful so far!

Limewash Stone Fireplace Makeover: Bye Bye Orange Stone Fireplace, Hello Neutral Stone Beauty!

January 14, 2020 by Bre 66 Comments

If you want to change the color of a stone or rock fireplace or wall, try limewash! This post shows how to limewash stone fireplace to retain a natural look.

Last September I announced that we were moving from our beloved home outside of Chicago to the Milwaukee suburbs. On December 21 we moved in to our new home, and since then, I have been busy unpacking and trying to make this house feel like our home!

I tackled my first big project, which was a makeover of our massive 1970s fireplace, and I am thrilled to share my limewash stone fireplace makeover with you now!

(Update: I subsequently finished my limewash stone exterior makeover, too! Be sure to check it out!)

Before I show you all the pretty “after” makeover fireplace photos, I have to show you the beast I was working with! Complete with a wide variety of orange rocks, this extra large fireplace really clashed with my living room decor.

This post contains affiliate links. To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

As much as I can, I like to work with what I’ve got, though, and I did not want to tear down this fireplace (can you imagine the dust and mess?!?), concrete over the rocks, or frame it out with wood and ruin the 70s vibe we’ve got going on here. So, I did some research and decided to do a DIY stone fireplace makeover with Romabio brand limewash.

What is Limewash?

Sorry if you already know this, but I thought that some of you might be unfamiliar with limewash, so let me fill you in! Basically, limewash is a heavily mineral-based paint that produces a very chalky and matte finish.

The minerals seep into the porous surface to which the limewash is applied and give a really authentic and aged look. It is VERY popular for painting bricks and other masonry, like stone!

There are several brands of limewash on the market, and apparently you can even make your own! I chose to use Romabio brand limewash because I follow the company on Instagram and love every makeover I see with their products, and because their limewash is affordably priced and comes in many colors. I used the Riposo Beige shade for my limewash fireplace makeover.

Why Use Limewash on Stone and Brick Instead of Paint?

You might be wondering why I chose to limewash my stone fireplace instead of painting it . . .

Well, there are several reasons!

First, I like that limewash is removable within the first five days of application. This made the project seem less risky to me. Although it probably would have been messy and tedious to remove the finish if I didn’t like it, I felt good knowing that it wasn’t permanent if I hated it.

Next, I like that limewash has little to no odor, unlike many types of paint! I did this project in January with no windows open, and there were no stinky fumes invading my house.

Third, I liked that the finished look was completely up to me in terms of how much of the original stone color I wanted to show through. Simply by thinning the limewash with water, I would have been able to get a more translucent effect and would have allowed more of the natural stone color to show through. This is perfectly fine with limewash and does not affect the durability of the product!

In my case, I was trying to mask the orange tones, so I applied the limewash in a more opaque finish. But had I wanted to, I could have allowed more of the stone color to show through.

What Supplies Do You Need for a Limewash Stone Fireplace Makeover?

Now that you have a little more background on limewash, let me fill you in on the supplies you need to limewash a stone fireplace. Surprisingly, it isn’t that much!

Masonry brush
Dropcloth
Cleaning rags/towels
Spray bottle with water
Mixing bucket
Stir stick
Limewash (I used one quart of Riposo Beige for my fireplace)
Painters tape
Optional: smaller paintbrush to get in crevices and hard to reach areas

All in, this project cost me just under $70, and that is because I had to buy things like painters tape, rags, and a protective tarp (since the ones I already had are still packed away from the move). If you already have these items, your project cost will be less.

How to Limewash Stone

I think you won’t believe how easy it is to limewash a stone fireplace, or any rock surface!

Step One: Protect Surrounding Surfaces

First, make sure to protect surrounding surfaces with a tarp and painters tape.

Step Two: Clean the Stone or Rock

Next, clean the stone with a wet rag. Make sure to get rid of any cobwebs hiding in between the rocks, and get the rocks wet (but not dripping wet).

Step Three: Wet the Rock or Stone

After the stone fireplace surround is clean, get out your water bottle and spray the rocks. You want the rocks to definitely be wet, but you don’t want water running down the rocks.

Step Four: Mix the Limewash

Now it’s time to mix up the limewash! For this step, make sure to read the product instructions that come with the limewash you have purchased.

I chose to mix my quart of limewash with half the amount of water (so, 16 ounces in this case), and this resulted in a thicker cover of limewash.

Remember to mix, mix, mix the product so that there is no extra water left at the top of the bucket, and so that everything is all mixed together. This could take up to ten minutes because limewash is very thick to begin with!

Once the product is fully mixed, it’s time to apply the limewash to the fireplace.

Step Five: Apply the Limewash

I started on the top side and worked my way down. I watched carefully to see when the limewash was almost dry (but not totally dry), and then began to wipe it off very lightly.

Doing this let some of the rock tones show through – but not too much!

I repeated this application / drying / wiping process across the front and couldn’t believe the immediate difference the limewash made! I won’t lie – I did have a minor time of doubt as it was such a drastic difference, but I know that I always do that with any project, so I calmed down and kept working.

Step Six: Get the Nooks and Crannies

Once I finished the entire fireplace, I went back in to the nooks and crannies I missed with the bulky masonry brush, and touched up those spots with a small paintbrush. (If you’re working with a limewash solution that is more diluted than my mixture, this may not be an issue for you!)

I stood back and admired the look of my limewashed rock fireplace, and then noticed how awful the orange hearth looked against it. I felt a pit in my stomach because I couldn’t let this orange hearth ruin this makeover!

The limewash did not work on the marble hearth (I accidentally got some on the hearth and it wiped right off even though it had dried), so I had to think of a different solution.

The good news is that I did come up with a way to paint my marble fireplace hearth, and the whole project came together gorgeously! (Click that link if you want to learn how to paint a marble fireplace hearth, too!)

The Completed DIY Stone Fireplace Makeover

I know, I know – you want to see it! Here is the completed fireplace makeover – it looks so different!

I cannot believe what I accomplished for under $70!

And in case you’re wondering why I didn’t paint the brass fireplace doors – it’s because I like them! Brass is one of my favorite finishes.

Decor should be about what you like and not what others say you should do, so I am leaving them. (For now, at least. ;-)).

Final Thoughts and the Nitty Gritty on a Limewash Fireplace Makeover

In total, I spent just about 4.5 hours on this DIY stone fireplace makeover – from cleaning, to wetting the stone, to mixing the limewash, and applying the limewash. Note that if your limewash solution takes longer to get to the “wipe off” phase, your project time could be longer.

It was TOTALLY worth it. My living room is so much brighter, and my fireplace looks so much better. I didn’t have to spend a ton of money to make it look fresh, and I am so thankful to have found out about limewash!

I used an entire quart of limewash in the Riposo Beige shade for this fireplace and I didn’t have any left over. If you use Romabio Classico Limewash, they have helpful tools on their website that will let you figure out how much product you need for your specific project. They say that generally, a quart is enough for a fireplace makeover.

The next step in this living room overhaul is to paint the wall surrounding the fireplace (it’s currently a gray/purple color), and then paint the built-ins and get rid of the mirrored backs! UPDATE: I finished the mirrored built-ins makeover, and we replaced the carpeting with luxury vinyl plank flooring (you can read my luxury vinyl plank review here!)

We would also like to have a mantel built for the fireplace, but it is surprisingly expensive (according to the one quote I’ve gotten), and my large round wood mirror gives the natural wood look we’re after – at least for now!

So, what do you think? Was this 1970s stone fireplace makeover a success? Let me know in the comments and please share this post to Pinterest to help others learn how to limewash their fireplaces, too! Us stone fireplace people need to stick together! 🙂

And, if you’d like to see another DIY fireplace makeover I did, check out my DIY wood slat fireplace! This is a total transformation of the 1970s brick fireplace in my bedroom, and it’s aaaaaa-maaaa-zing!