DIY

Oak cabinets painted in Benjamin Moore’s Hampshire Taupe were a budget-friendly way to update a dated kitchen.

Over the past few months I’ve been working on updating the kitchen in my new home.  I’ve already shared the Painted Tile Backsplash and Kitchen Soffit Makeover, and I’m so excited to share the Painted Oak Kitchen Cabinets Makeover now, too!

Before I show you how painting the oak cabinets made a huge difference in the look and feel of my kitchen, let me tell you that there is still more to be done in here. 

We will be updating the lighting in this room (including removing the large ceiling light that’s visible in these photos), and plan to install new countertops (and possibly backsplash) next spring. 

So, we’re almost finished, but not totally done yet! Just want you guys to keep coming back for more – ha!!

Painted Oak Kitchen Cabinets – a DIY Makeover

Okay, so take a trip down memory lane with me real quick . . . here’s the “before” of the kitchen.  This is the real estate listing photo from December 2019.

Orange oak or honey oak cabinets, brown and cream granite countertops, and a brown and cream glass mosaic backsplash were all relics of a 1990s kitchen renovation.

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And here’s the new look so far, with just the wood cabinets painted so far! (Yes, there are Christmas decorations in these photos.  It’s almost Christmas. :-)).

The cabinet painting process was long and involved.  I started on October 17, 2020 and finished on November 25, 2020 – yes, the day before Thanksgiving!  

Here’s why it took me so long: I used a cabinet painting process that professional cabinet painters use. 

I did extensive research in painters’ forums and consulted professional painters to find out how to paint oak cabinets to last. This included finding out which products professional painters use to paint oak cabinets. 

No, they don’t use chalk paint (they use high quality paint), and yes, you have to sand. 

I did a trial run with all of the products and methods in my Oak China Cabinet Makeover. Then I refined the process for this kitchen cabinets makeover.

Because I used a professional quality of workmanship and painted my kitchen cabinets section by section (as opposed to all at once), it took me a while. 

I did not have the space to paint all 30-something doors and drawers at once, and I didn’t want my kitchen to be a total mess during the process, so breaking it up worked best for me.

Taupe Cabinets – Benjamin Moore Hampsire Taupe

For my kitchen makeover, I decided to do taupe cabinets with the cream painted backsplash.  I wanted a color that works with the current brown and cream granite countertops, as well as a color that will work with the new quartz countertops we plan to install next year. 

Painting these oak cabinets white would not have worked in my kitchen (though it is entirely possible in other kitchens)!

(May 2021 UPDATE: our new backsplash and countertops are in!  See the completed DIY Kitchen Makeover in that post!). So, Benjamin Moore Hampshire Taupe was the winning color! 

I never thought I would have taupe kitchen cabinets, but here we are.  I like that they’re neutral but not white.  I think white would have been too stark with the current countertops, and much too bright for my home once we install the new countertops (which will primarily be white).

Does Oak Grain Show Through Paint?

Now, one question I’ve been getting a lot on my TikTok videos about this painting process is whether the grain shows on painted oak kitchen cabinets. 

The answer is yes, to an extent the grain is visible.  That is because I did not use any type of grain filler product.  I decided it was not worth it to me to go through that added step, so I painted without filling the grain. 

Here is what the painted oak grain looks like in certain spots.  The edges of drawers and details around the flat panels of the cabinet doors are the most visible spots, in my opinion. 

If this type of visible wood grain bothers you and you want to paint your oak cabinets, you will need to use a grain filler or wood filler product. 

You can see that the paint fills in the grain, but it does not “level up” with the rest of the wood, so the marks remain.  

Is It Worth It To Paint Kitchen Cabinets Yourself?

I will not lie to you – painting cabinets is a huge project that can feel like it will never end at times.  Even though I did not love the process, I believe it was 100% worth it to paint my kitchen cabinets myself.

I saved thousands of dollars with a DIY cabinet painting job, and can use that money for other improvements in this space! (CHECK OUT ALL OF THE IMPROVEMENTS in this final reveal of my DIY Kitchen Makeover!)

Plus, I feel really proud of myself that I accomplished this huge painting job all by myself.  

Let me know what you think of my kitchen transformation so far.  I hope you like it!  Make sure to check out my new countertops, new backsplash, and more in this DIY Kitchen Makeover post!

-Bre

• How to Paint a Tile Backsplash
• How to Disguise a Kitchen Soffit
• How to Convert a Kitchen Desk to Pull-Out Trash
• The Easiest DIY Under Cabinet Lighting
• Complete Cabinet Painting Supply List
• How to Paint a Countertop
• DIY Kitchen Makeover Reveal!

After I painted my kitchen tile backsplash, my husband and I started Part 2 of our kitchen revamp: our DIY kitchen soffit makeover.  Our goal was to disguise the kitchen soffit (the part of the ceiling over the cabinets; sometimes called a ‘bulkhead’ or a ‘fur down’) and make it look more like it is part of the cabinets and less like wasted space.

I am painting the kitchen cabinets and the soffit the same color to make them blend together (you can see the finished painted cabinets in this post and the totally finished DIY Kitchen Makeover here), but this post is intended to show you how this kitchen soffit makeover made our kitchen look better, and how you can do the same!

Supplies Used for This Kitchen Soffit Makeover

This post contains affiliate links.  Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

These are the materials we used to trim out our soffits. Pro tip: save time by ordering your materials online for free in-store pickup or even curbside loading.

Tools Used:

• Miter Saw
• Brad Nailer
• Mallet
• Level
• Tape Measure

Wood Used:

• 2.25″ crown molding
• 1×2 wood
• 1×3 wood
• 1×4 wood

Supplies Used:

• Caulk
• Wood Filler
• Pencil

How to Disguise a Kitchen Soffit

Before I jump in to give you all the details on this project, let me show you the “BEFORE” photo of the kitchen.  This shows the backsplash tile has already been painted, but we hadn’t yet begun making over the soffit.

Over the course of a couple of weekend days we transformed the soffits, using multiple sizes of boards and molding.  Here is the step-by-step!

Step 1: Attach Crown Molding to Top of Soffit

For the first part of our soffit makeover, we installed 2.25″ crown molding at the top of the soffit – connecting the soffit and the ceiling – with the brad nailer.

Because of the steps that came later in this process, we first attached small pieces of 1×2″ wood to the back of each crown molding section.  We did this so that the crown molding would sit flush with the boards we attached to the soffit later in the project.

This means that the crown molding was sitting out farther than the soffit – and that is just what we needed for the next step to look right.

Step 2: Attach 1×3″ Horizontal Boards to Soffit

Next, we cut 1×3″ boards with the miter saw, and attached them directly below the crown molding installed in Step 1, and also on the lower front of the soffit.

Because the crown molding was mounted on the 1×2 pieces, the molding and the 1×3 boards were flush together.  We cut the 1×3 boards with straight cuts at the end of each soffit, and beveled cuts in the inner corner.

Step 3: Attach Vertical 1×3″ Boards to Soffit

Once the horizontal 1×3 boards were in place, we measured the distance between the 1×3’s at every corner, and we cut 1×3″ pieces to attach in the corners.  It was interesting how different the measurements were!  The soffits were definitely not the same size in all spots.

As in Step 2, we cut the outer corners with straight cuts, and did bevel cuts for the inner corner.  We attached the vertical blocks at every corner.

The soffits were already looking better at this point!

Step 4: Attach 1×4″ Boards to Connect Cabinets and Soffit

Finally, we removed the small piece of trim or molding that was at the top of our cabinets and the base of the soffit.  You can see it hanging down in this photo.

We then used the brad nailer to attach 1×4″ boards to the base of the soffit (at the top of the cabinets), so that approximately 1″ of wood extended beyond the base of the soffit.

By having this piece stick out farther than the soffit, it actually made the soffit and the cabinet boxes look like they are the same (or similar) depth, as opposed to the soffit sticking out farther than the cabinets.  It’s a crazy visual trick!

Step 5: Caulk!

So . . . my husband did an incredible job on this soffit makeover, but he is not a carpenter by trade.  Because of that, we had a lot of caulking to do before priming!

I used Alex Flex caulk because it said it’s the best for molding and trim, but I’m not a caulk expert (bummer!), so I don’t know if this more expensive caulk was truly necessary.

After caulking and priming, I’ve now started painting the cabinets and soffit, and it’s looking SO GOOD!  Here is a little sneak peek of how this is all coming together! (UPDATE: TO SEE THE TOTALLY FINISHED PAINTED CABINETS, CHECK OUT THIS POST and see the TOTALLY UPDATED KITCHEN WITH NEW COUNTERTOPS HERE.)

I really think our attempt to disguise our kitchen soffit is working and making our kitchen look much nicer than it did before!

I hope this post is helpful to you, too!  As always, let me know if you have any questions or comments!

-Bre

• DIY Painted Tile Backsplash
• How to Convert a Kitchen Desk to Pull-Out Trash
• DIY Painted Oak Cabinets
• How to Hide the Side of a Refrigerator with Magnetic Panels
• DIY Kitchen Makeover Reveal

Earlier this year, I totally transformed my 1970s orange rock fireplace with limewash.  Because that project went so well, I decided to try my hand at a DIY limewash stone exterior makeover of the same 1970s orange rock on the outside of our house, too!

(This orange rock musta’ been on sale in 1977!) 

This limewashed stone project was the first part of our outdoor overhaul (which you can see here!), and was an absolutely PERFECT DIY project that significantly updated my home’s exterior! 

Limewashing is definitely the easiest way to change the color of a home’s stone or rock facade.

What Supplies Do You Need to Limewash Exterior Stone?

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

Listed here are all of the supplies I needed to limewash my exterior stone column.  Some of the items I needed may not be required for your job – especially if your stone or rock is low to the ground.  I have noted those items with an asterisk (*) in the list.  The rest of the items are actually quite inexpensive, so this job can be done on a budget.

• Romabio Classico Limewash (I used two quarts of the Riposo Beige color to complete my large stone column) (**Limewash comes in many colors.  Make sure to choose a shade that coordinates with your home’s paint colors, roof color, etc.)
• Masonry brush
• 3″ Chip brushes
• Water spray bottle
• Paint stir sticks
• Mixing bucket
• Hose with spray attachment
• Terry shop towels
• Drop cloth or tarp
• *Scaffolding (we rented it from a local rental company for around $180 for a week) or ladder
• *Extension pole
• *Lockjaw Tool Holder

How Do You Limewash Stone Outside?

Limewashing exterior surfaces is actually easier than limewashing interior surfaces because you don’t have to be as careful to protect surrounding surfaces (limewash is all-natural, so it doesn’t harm plants!), and you don’t really have to clean the surface the way you do inside.

Now that you know that, let me show you how it’s done!

Mixing Limewash

Begin by mixing the limewash for the first section of your project.  I mixed one quart at a time to keep the limewash “liquidy” the entire time I was using it. 

I emptied the one-quart container of limewash into my mixing bucket and thinned it with three cups of water. 

When mixing your limewash, check to see what dilution ratio you’d like.  The product contains instructions for how much water to add. 

I diluted this batch of limewash more than the limewash I mixed for my fireplace makeover, because I wanted to let a little more of the rock show through. 

I made sure to stir until all the lumps and clumps at the bottom had dissolved.  Once everything’s mixed, it’s time to get to work.

For me, that meant climbing the scaffolding.  I was scared to do this!  When my husband could sense my fear and said (in a nice and caring way) that he didn’t think I was going to be able to do this, I got the jolt I needed and climbed right up. 

Once I was up there, I was fine (see – I’m smiling!).

Wetting the Stone or Rock

To start the actual limewashing of the stone, I sprayed a small section of the rock with the garden hose.  As Romabio (the manufacturer) recommends, I worked from top (left to right), on down.

Within each section, I used my water spray bottle to re-dampen stones prior to applying limewash, where necessary. 

I found that as I got to the end of a section I’d sprayed with the garden hose, the sun had dried up much of the water.  So, the water spray bottle was a great way to get the stone wet again to accept the limewash, without wetting it too much with the garden hose.  

Applying the Limewash to the Stone

With a small section wet, I began applying the limewash to the stone. 

My scaffolding didn’t get me high enough to reach the top left corner of the stone column, so I used my extension pole and tool holder to reach that corner with the masonry brush. 

I used the masonry brush to cover the large stone pieces and rocks, and then I got into the grout and crevices with the 3″ chip brushes. 

I find the masonry brush too unwieldy to get into the grout, but the chip brushes make this part of the job easy.

Because the sun was pretty hot on the day I was painting, I was wiping off excess limewash pretty soon after applying it to the rock.  I didn’t have to do too much of that, however, because the rock was so crevicey and jagged that a lot of the natural stone was showing through anyway. 

The terry towels worked great to cover my bucket of limewash and catch drips, too.

I worked section by section, going down the rock column, making sure to keep the application uniform and to pay attention to parts that were easy to miss, like the sides of rocks and the bottom parts of rocks.

I finished the entire column in a day of work (about 7 hours, including a lunch break), and saved myself a lot of money by limewashing the exterior stone myself.

Admittedly, the Riposo Beige limewash doesn’t look fantastic with the 1970’s brown siding of the house.  I think it’s too stark a contrast. 

It does, however, look FABULOUS with the new color of our house (which you can see in my 1970s exterior makeover post)!  Here’s a teaser to whet your appetite!

Why Limewash Exterior Stone Instead of Painting It?

I know you’re probably wondering why I chose to limewash my exterior stone column to change its color instead of painting it or whitewashing it, and I have lots of good answers for you!

Limewash Looks More Natural

First of all, limewashed rock – unlike painted rock or whitewashed rock (whitewash is just thinned-down paint) – has a much more natural appearance.  It is ultra-matte, just like rocks and stone, and allows the natural patina to show through (where desired). 

I did not want a totally polished or covered look that paint would have given, so limewash was the natural choice here!

I also like that the limewash will continue to patina and age with time, unlike paint.  I didn’t want to destroy the rock – just update it to work with our new color scheme – and that is easily accomplished with limewash.

You Can Remove Limewash, If Needed

Next, limewash can be removed within 5 days of application!  So, I knew that if I limewashed the stone column and hated it, I could rent a power washer and remove it.  That “insurance policy” is huge, in my opinion!

Limewash is Easy on Plants

Finally, limewash poses no harm to the environment or surrounding surfaces.  I didn’t have to worry about some of it dripping on the bushes or grass below the stone, because it’s totally natural and non-toxic and washed away as soon as it rained.  It was nice not having to think about any of that!

This limewash finish will last approximately 10-15 years, which is the same as an exterior paint job.  So, I will have to redo it at some point to maintain the look, but that is the case with any painted finish.

Let me know if you have any questions about the limewashing process at all.  I am such a huge fan of this material and want to sing its praises from the highest mountain!  It is so DIY friendly and makes such an impact at a low price.  It’s amazing.  🙂

Make sure to check out the entire exterior makeover reveal!

Over the years I’ve used gel stain on many home maintenance and furniture makeover projects, and I’ve learned a lot!  Gel stain is an amazing tool for reviving wood, but it can be tricky to use if you’re not prepared.  Because of that, I am sharing my most helpful gel stain tips and tricks that will make a difference in the quality of your gel stain projects.

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

What is Gel Stain?

Since you’re visiting this post, you probably already know what gel stain is.  But, just in case you don’t, gel stain is a thick stain that sits on top of the wood finish instead of penetrating the wood like regular stain does.

It is awesome to use on previously-stained wood, as it allows you to change the color of the wood and refinish it without stripping it to bare wood.  For example, at my old house, I refinished my front door with gel stain, and in my new house, I’ve refinished stair railings, stair treads, and a china cabinet top.  Most recently, I painted my front door with gel stain to make it look like wood!

Gel stain can also be used on raw wood or unfinished wood, but you’ll need to take some extra steps, which I’ll fill you in on below!

Why Use Gel Stain?

In my opinion, the main reason why you would use gel stain instead of traditional stain is if you’re changing the color of wood that’s previously been stained.  It is easy to re-stain wood with gel stain, but requires a lot more work to re-stain wood with traditional penetrating wood stain.

If you are staining raw wood, I personally would use penetrating stain as it is less expensive than gel stain and gives a better finish on raw wood than gel stain. I personally do not like how dark gel stain looks on raw wood.

Gel Stain Tips and Tricks

OK, enough of the background info!  Let’s get down to the best gel stain tips and tricks, which I’ve compiled over the last several years of working with gel stain on various projects.

Wear gloves while working with gel stain.

You do not want to get gel stain on your hands.  I repeat, you do not want to get gel stain on your hands!  It is sticky and difficult to get off of your skin.  Because of that, make sure to wear rubber gloves or disposable latex gloves while applying gel stain!  

What is the best way to apply gel stain?

For large swaths of wood (like a tabletop), I like to use stain pads to apply gel stain.  Stain pads allow you to cover a large area of wood while maintaining a lot of control over the application.

For smaller areas, foam brushes are my gel stain applicator of choice.  Foam brushes are great because they’re disposable, and gel stained brushes are a mess I personally would not want to clean up.  Foam brushes also apply gel stain evenly and don’t leave brushstrokes in the finish.

How long do I leave gel stain on before wiping off excess?

Make sure to read the directions on the gel stain can, as it will tell you how long to leave on the gel stain before wiping off.

Generally, I wait around 3 minutes before wiping off.

If you wipe off too soon, you will not see a difference in wood color.

If you wait too long to wipe off, the gel stain will start to dry and will become very difficult to remove.

How do I get the right shade or color of gel stain?

Generally speaking, it is MUCH easier to use gel stain to achieve a darker wood color on a previously finished piece of wood than it is to get a lighter color.

Layering coats of gel stain (per manufacturer directions), will result in a more opaque finish that is darker and shows less of the woodgrain.  This type of finish looks more like paint than stain.

Also, you can layer different colors of gel stain, or mix different colors of gel stain, to achieve custom shades.  This is especially useful if you’re trying to color match an existing wood tone.

How do I fix areas of gel stain that have dried too quickly?

If you have gel stain that has started to get tacky before you were able to wipe it off, dip a rag in mineral spirits and apply a little bit to the problem area.  The excess gel stain should come up easily.  Once the area has dried, recoat with gel stain and wipe off within the proper timeframe.

Be careful not to apply gel stain to areas where the gel stain was not removed with mineral spirits or you will create an uneven finish.

If the gel stain has totally dried, sand it off and start the process over again.

Do I need to sand before applying gel stain?

For previously finished wood, yes, you need to sand before applying gel stain.  Generally, you need to sand enough to scuff up the existing finish and make the surface even.  You DO NOT need to sand down to bare wood.  This is what makes using gel stain an advantage on previously finished wood.

For raw wood, yes, you also need to sand before applying gel stain.  This will open up the grain and allow the gel stain to create an even richer and more even color.

Do I need to use Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner with Gel Stain?

If you’re applying gel stain to previously stained wood, you probably do not need to use pre-stain wood conditioner.  You may consider it if your wood piece, once sanded, seems uneven or damaged.  The wood conditioner will not hurt anything but can only help.

If you’re applying gel stain to raw wood, you absolutely need to use pre-stain wood conditioner!  Pre-stain conditioner helps prevent blotchy absorption and/or patchy spots in your finish.  As I said earlier, I wouldn’t use gel stain on raw wood, but if you are doing it for some reason, make sure to use a pre-stain conditioner first!

Should I seal or topcoat gel stain?

Yes! You should definitely seal or topcoat gel stain projects.

Once dry, gel stain has a naturally “glossed” look, which may lead some to believe it does not need to have a topcoat applied.  However, it really must be protected with polyurethane or some other “tough coat” or “performance topcoat,” in order to give it the protection it needs.  

I like to use fast-drying polyurethane or this performance topcoat for indoor surfaces, and Spar Urethane for outdoor surfaces like doors.

***

Those are my top gel stain tips and tricks, and I hope they help you achieve a finish that you love!  Let me know if you have any to add.  I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!

-Bre