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I’m no stranger to painting surfaces that you don’t typically think of painting – including tile. A couple years ago I painted my kitchen tile backsplash, and I just used a similar process to paint over tile in my powder room. This tile painting project freshened up the room immediately!

If you have tile you don’t love, you don’t have to live with it! Let me show you how to paint over tile and refresh your space.

In this tutorial, I’m showing you how to paint over tile that does not get direct exposure to water on a regular basis. But, if you want to paint tile that does get wet, like in a shower or around a bathtub, read my post on how to paint a tub. The products I used in that post are what you’ll need for painting tile in wet areas.

If you want to paint floor tile, read my post on how I painted my tile fireplace hearth. The materials I used in that project are better suited for painting floor tile.

Supplies Needed to Paint Over Tile

With that out of the way, here’s what I used to paint the mosaic tile wall in my bathroom. Some of these links are affiliate links, and you can read my disclosure policy for more information.

• Krud Kutter or TSP
• Palm sander
• Sandpaper (100 – 200 grit)
• STIX primer
• Behr Semi-Gloss Cabinet and Trim Enamel
• 1.5″ – 2″ angled paint brush
• Roller for rough surfaces
• Silicone caulk
• Dropcloth
• Paint tray
• Paper towels
• Painters tape

How to Paint Over Tile

Again, this method for painting over tile is best for tile that won’t be walked on or constantly subjected to water getting on it. It will work great for a tile wall like mine that needs to be covered or a backsplash, for example.

Prep the Tile to be Painted

Start by cleaning the tiles to be painted. I used Krud Kutter, which is the non-toxic cleaner I use before just about every painting project. TSP is another option that will work great for cleaning tile before paint.

Next, sand the tiles to scuff them up. This is really important because most tiles are glossy. Sanding them will help the primer and paint stick better. I used 100 grit sandpaper on my little hand sander, and it did a good job of roughing them up just enough.

After sanding, clean the tile again with another round of Krud Kutter or TSP.

Prime the Tile with Adhesion Primer

Using a great adhesion primer is so important when painting tile! If you don’t use the right primer, your paint will peel off in no time.

For this tile painting project I used Stix primer because it is the adhesion primer that professional painters recommend. I used it as the primer for painting my kitchen cabinets, and that paint job has held up amazing, so I decided to use it here, too. Plus, it shows tile on the label. 🙂

With some trial and error, I found the best method of applying the primer to the tile to be this: (1) roll the primer over a section of tile; (2) use a brush to get paint into the grout lines; (3) go back over the area with the roller to smooth everything out.

In the top left of this wall, I hadn’t yet figured out that technique, and you can see that the coverage is thinner than the other parts I primed.

Paint the Tile

Stix primer dries pretty quickly, so you’re able to get to the good stuff within a couple of hours of priming.

As with the painted kitchen tile backsplash, I used Behr Cabinet & Trim Enamel as the topcoat paint for this painted tile wall. I chose a semi-gloss finish to paint the tile so that it would still have the glossy look of tile.

I used the same technique for applying the paint as I did the primer (roll, brush, roll) – working in small sections – and the first coat looked good but not great. Up close there was a lot of primed grout line still visible once the first coat was finished.

With a second coat the next day, however, the busy mosaic tile looked calm and brand new! Once the paint dried, I caulked around the tile and countertop with silicone caulk to make sure that area was protected.

The Bathroom Makeover with Painted Tile

Once the tile was painted, I decided to make a few other changes, like painting the adjacent walls the same color as the painted tile (Behr Cotton Knit, but in an eggshell finish), painting the window frame (Benjamin Moore White Dove), swapping the light fixture and mirror, and adding some new accessories.

Now the powder room looks like this!

Here is the full progression of this powder room makeover from the time we moved in, to when I painted the vanity and painted countertop, to now. Can you believe that most of the changes in here have just been paint? Amazing!

Seven months.  SEVEN MONTHS! That’s how long my DIY Kitchen Makeover took from start to finish.

Last year I painted my oak kitchen cabinets and did a whole bunch of other stuff to update my 1990s oak kitchen (I’ll walk you down that memory lane later in this post). 

Once those projects were completed, I outsourced things like electrical, countertops, and tile work, serving as my own general contractor/project manager.  Also more on that later in this post.

But now the second phase of my kitchen remodel without a renovation is complete, and I am so glad this project is finished.  (*Almost complete.  More on that later, too!)

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

The Kitchen Before: Golden Oak Cabinets, Brown Countertops, and Glass Mosaic Tile Backsplash

Any good reveal post is incomplete without the before photos!  So let’s have a flashback to what this kitchen looked like when we purchased the home in late 2019.

The kitchen was in great condition, but it wasn’t really our style, so I set out to make it look more like us in the late summer of 2020.  I got a crazy idea to paint the kitchen tile backsplash to tone down the look.  The painted tile held up great and gave me the calmer look I was after.

Kitchen Makeover Part 1: Disguised Soffits, Converted Kitchen Desk, and Painted Oak Cabinets

Then, in the fall of 2020, things really got moving in my 1990s-style kitchen.  

Kitchen Soffit Makeover

First, my husband and I gave the kitchen soffit a makeover, and attempted to help blend the soffit with the cabinets by adding lots of trim to them.  You can read more about that project and how to disguise a kitchen soffit in the post I wrote about it.

Kitchen Desk Conversion to Trash

Then, we converted the kitchen desk area to pull-out trash, which was a better use of that space for our family.  

DIY Painted Cabinets

Once those projects were finished, I got to work painting the oak cabinets.  I painted, and painted, and painted.  It took me weeks of work because I only had a little bit of time each day to devote to the project, but I got it done.

I painted the cabinets Hampshire Taupe by Benjamin Moore, and you can read more about my process for painting oak cabinets in that post.

The first part of this DIY kitchen makeover made a huge difference in my family’s enjoyment of our home, and we were glad to celebrate Thanksgiving and Christmas in our refreshed kitchen!

Kitchen Makeover Part 2: New Electrical, New Tile Backsplash, and New Countertops

Once the New Year hit, it was time to get back to work on this kitchen makeover!  

Kitchen Remodel Electrical

First up, we had new LED recessed lighting installed in the ceiling, and we eliminated the large light fixture that once hung in an odd spot in the middle of the kitchen.  The recessed lighting added so much light to the kitchen – it was amazing!  The kitchen was very dark prior to this.

We also swapped the can light over the kitchen sink for a cute little semi-flushmount light.  I wanted this change for cosmetic purposes only.  Since I have recessed lighting throughout the rest of the kitchen, I wanted there to be a cute light fixture somewhere.  

Previously I added wireless under cabinet lighting (you can read about it in that post), and I still loved it so I didn’t feel like adding the expense of hardwired under cabinet lights.

Painted Tile Backsplash Removal

Once we started shopping for countertops, it became clear to us that we were also going to need to replace our tile backsplash.  The painted tile backsplash was holding up great, but it would be damaged during the countertop removal and installation process.

Because of that, it made sense to rip it out before the new countertops went in, and replace with a new backsplash once the countertops were installed.

We did the tile backsplash removal ourselves, and honestly – it was a horrible job.  It was such a mess!  I’m sure there are better ways to remove a backsplash, but we did the best we could.  

Once that was out, I hired drywall professionals to hang new drywall.  I’ve tried drywall in the past and it did not go well.  Ha!

Countertop Installation

At the beginning of March, our new quartz countertops, sink, and faucet were installed.  We chose MSI Blanca Statuarietto quartz because the creamy white shade with the subtle veining in browns, creams, and grays was perfect with the taupe cabinets.

We also chose quartz because of its reputation for durability and ease of care.  I will be writing a post on my experience with quartz countertops so far because I think there’s a lot of false or misleading information out there about this product.  I love the look of these countertops in my kitchen, but I feel a bit deceived.

New Tile Backsplash Installation

Finally, in mid-April we were able to get our new backsplash installed!  Since everyone in the world is renovating right now, it was hard to find a professional who could do this job for us in a reasonable timeframe!  Thankfully we found a great company and they did amazing work.

I chose a very simple and inexpensive white rhombus ceramic tile, which we laid in a chevron pattern.  The second I saw this tile I knew it was what I wanted!

The grout, on the other hand, was a totally different story.  I could not, for the life of me, make a decision.  Choosing between white grout, off-white grout, brown grout, and more was making my head spin!  Thankfully my mom came with me one day to pick something.  I chose Laticrete Permacolor grout in River Rock.  It is slightly darker than the cabinet color, and really helps that chevron pattern pop!

I was nervous to pick something that would stand out, but in the end, it’s what made me happy so I went with it. I’m really glad I did because it gives my kitchen a little personality and doesn’t look like everything else on Pinterest.

DIY Kitchen Makeover Reveal

It feels so good to finally be FINISHED with this DIY kitchen makeover! 

Doing the work yourself and finding/managing professionals to help you with the parts you can’t (or don’t want to) do yourself is a lot!

We have one issue left to resolve surrounding some scratches on our new quartz countertops, but once that’s taken care of with the installer, I will be glad to consider this project totally done!

I hope this project shows you that you can update spaces in your home without a gut renovation. 

It may take you a lot of time, but you’ll get there eventually!  And when you do, you’ll be very proud of yourself!  And . . . you will have saved yourself a lot of money over a gut renovation or hiring out all of the steps.

Please let me know what you think of this makeover, and also let me know if you have any questions at all!  I’m always glad to help.

Our house had a vibrant orange front door, which I actually loved.  But when we repainted the exterior this summer, the orange door wasn’t right. 

I decided I wanted a wood front door to coordinate with our wood-look garage door and wood-accent exterior lights, but I did not want to strip and restain the door: too messy! 

I became determined to figure out how to paint a door to look like wood so that I could get the wood look without all of the hassle.

FULL DISCLOSURE: I totally messed this up at first!  Because of my mistakes, I probably did not save myself any time and could’ve stripped and re-stained in the same amount of time.  That being said, I perfected the faux wood finish technique and can now share it with you, so it isn’t a total loss!

How NOT To Paint a Door to Look Like Wood (My Mistakes!)

Before we get to the good stuff and how to really achieve a convincing faux wood finish, I HAVE to show you how badly I messed this up the first time around.  I was trying to get a wood finish with orange undertones . . .

So I applied two coats of gel stain right over the orange paint.  And it was awful – so bad that I could only laugh about how horrible it was! 

Can you believe this?  It was embarrassing to even close the door for anyone passing by to see.  Ha!

OK, so take it from me – you cannot paint a door to look like wood with orange paint.  Not gonna work!

How to Paint a Door to Look Like Wood

Now that we’ve gotten THAT out of the way, let me show you how I redeemed myself and actually painted my door to look like wood!  You can read my step-by-step tutorial in this post and watch the video I’ve put together that shows you how this all went down!

Supplies Needed to Paint a Door to Look Like Wood

This post contains affiliate links and sponsored links as part of the Amazon Influencer program.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

• Flat latex paint in a shade of brown
• Gel stain in the color of your choice
• Varathane Ultimate Spar Urethane
• Stain pads
• 1.5″ or 2″ angled paint brush
• Small artist brushes
• 3″ chip brushes
• Painters tape
• Cardstock or cardboard with a straight edge
• Drop Cloth
• Sandpaper
• **May need primer if your door has never been painted

Step One: Sand and Tape Off Hardware or Remove Hardware

Before you start, make sure to protect your door hardware with painters tape or to remove it.

You’ll also want to spread a drop cloth underneath the door to protect surrounding surfaces and the floor beneath.

Then, lightly sand the door to remove any glossy surfaces, and wipe the door clean.

Step Two: Paint the Door Brown

OK so after my orange paint plus gel stain disaster pictured above, I realized that the gel stain wasn’t the problem; the orange paint was.  I went to my basement and found a gallon of flat latex paint in a soft brown shade.  It was left by the previous homeowners and I considered it a gift from God.

I painted over all of my ugly orange mess with the flat latex paint. 

Even my dog looks sad in this photo. 

Thank goodness that ugliness was gone!

**If you’re painting a door that has never been painted, make sure to prime it first!

Step Three: Apply a Coat of Gel Stain to the Entire Door

Once the paint dried, I started applying gel stain right over the paint.  I began by using a 1″ foam brush to spread the gel stain, but quickly switched to a stain pad, as it was much easier to get it in all the nooks and crannies.  (Make sure to read my post on The Best Gel Stain Tips and Tricks, too.  It will help you have better success with gel stain!)

For the tight corners, I used artist paintbrushes to spread the gel stain. 

Once the whole door was covered in gel stain, I let it sit overnight to dry. It already looked better than it ever did with the orange base color, but it still wasn’t great.

Step Four: Apply a Second Coat of Gel Stain

Here’s where the magic starts to happen.  For this next step, I worked rectangle by rectangle, and then row by row, and then column by column, to create the look of wood grain with gel stain.

I will show you how I did this in a rectangular part of the door.  I started by applying a coat of gel stain in a rectangle with my stain pad, and I got into the corners with the artist brush. 

Then, I took the 3-inch chip brush, and I gently ran it over the flat part of the rectangle, from bottom to top, to remove some of the gel stain and to add a woodgrain pattern to the door. 

I varied how I moved the brush: in some rectangles it was straight down to up, and in others I did a little bit of a curve, as you see in woodgrain sometimes. 

I did this “apply gel stain and then remove some of it” process all across the door.  I used thick card stock at the edges of each row or column to create a barrier between the edges of each section, since the woodgrain travels in different directions in these different pieces.  This made the junctions crisp, just like a regular wood door. 

Here you can see the second coat of gel stain and woodgraining process on the entire door, except the outer columns.  The second coat of gel stain is necessary for getting a wood look finish!

Step Five: Seal the Door to Protect the Faux Wood Finish

After I applied the second coat of gel stain to the entire door, I let it sit overnight so that it could totally dry.  Then, I applied three coats of this sealer to the door throughout the course of one day (no sanding in between coats needed).

I let the door dry for the time recommended on the sealer, and in the end, I succeeded at painting my door to look like wood!

It’s hard to believe I was able to fix that disaster I created the first go-round!

Check Out Other DIY Door Projects You Might Like!

• Easy Flat Panel Door Makeover
• How to Refinish a Stained Door with Gel Stain

Questions About Painting a Door to Look Like Wood

I feel like there will be some questions about this process, so I’m trying to anticipate them!

Does this process work on metal doors or fiberglass doors?

Yes!  Although my door is wood, you can use the exact same process and products to paint your metal door to look like wood, or to finish your fiberglass to look like wood.  Awesome!

Can you use this process to paint a garage door to look like wood?

Yes!  This exact same process will work to paint a garage door to look like wood.

Can I use gel stain to refinish a wood door that hasn’t been painted?

Yes!  You can, and I’ve done it before! Check out my post on refinishing an exterior door with gel stain for all of the info you’ll need.

Any other questions?  Ask them in the comments section, and I will do my best to answer them!

-Bre

Learn how to paint a countertop with a finish that lasts!

I LOVE a good home transformation experiment, and today’s post showcases an amazing one!  I’m going to show you how to paint a countertop to look like marble. 

I painted my granite countertop in my powder room, and I achieved a convincing marble finish!  And guess what?  You can, too – on any type of countertop (laminate, Formica, granite, cultured marble, and more)!

Before we dive in, let me show you what I was working with in my powder room.  Dated oak vanity, busy tile wall backsplash, and a dark and dated granite countertop that was REALLY busy with that crazy tile wall.

(UPDATE: I painted the tile wall! Visit that link to see the newest updates to this bathroom! Also, here’s my two-year update on how this painted countertop is holding up!)

On a whim one day, I decided to paint the vanity with paint I purchased as a possibility for my painted marble fireplace hearth.  I didn’t end up using that color for the hearth, but I’m glad I saved the paint because it worked great in this bathroom. 

New paint and new hardware on the vanity (as well as on the baseboards and mirror), helped spiff up this bathroom, but the countertop still really bugged me.

We will be replacing our kitchen countertops in the near future, and I planned to replace this bathroom countertop at that time as well.  Since I had that already in mind, I decided to try painting my granite countertop first, just to see if and how it would work.  I figured that if it looked good, I’d save myself some money, and if it looked bad, I would have only wasted around $80.

Although the painted countertop is not perfect, it turned out MUCH BETTER than I expected!  

Supplies Used to Paint a Countertop to Look Like Marble

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, click here.

Because I painted a granite countertop, some of my prep work may have been different from what will be required for those painting countertops made of different materials. 

In my experience, the key to painting a granite countertop is in the prep work and in the sealer.  Because of that, it’s important to pay special attention to these steps!

I began by researching the Giani Marble Countertop Finish Kit, which includes everything you need to paint your countertops to look like marble.  Giani, the manufacturer of this kit, has an awesome video about the painting process, and this video really got me intrigued.

I quickly realized that the Marble Countertop Painting Kit contained enough product to paint a kitchen’s worth of countertops, and that I didn’t need nearly that amount of paint or product.  So, I figured out what I wanted and purchased the following items separately:

• Xylene (this is a MUST HAVE when painting granite.)
• Rubbing alcohol (also a MUST HAVE when painting granite)
• Step 1 white primer paint
• Step 2 gray paint for veining
• Step 3 epoxy sealer
• 2″ foam brush
• 1/4″ nap roller (TIP: See my note below about possibly using a foam roller instead)
• Small artist’s brush
• 2″ brush
• Roller tray
• Painter’s tape
• Dropcloth
• Clear acrylic caulk
• Rubber gloves
• Spray bottle with water

I got all of my supplies for under $100, which was less than the price of the kit. (Note that the kit does not include Xylene.)

How to Paint a Countertop to Look Like Marble

If you follow the instructions and are patient, I believe you can also paint your countertop for a lasting finish!

Step 1 for painting a granite countertop: PREP and CLEAN

I started by cleaning the countertop and then wiping it down with Xylene, which smells AWFUL.  Make sure to open a window while using this solution.  After the Xylene dried, I wiped it down with rubbing alcohol, per the instructions online.

Then I placed painter’s tape around the edge of the countertop and covered the vanity with a tarp.  

Step 2 for painting a countertop to look like marble: PRIME

Next, I primed the entire countertop with the white countertop paint.  After one coat it looked pretty streaky, but the video warned that this would be the case, so I wasn’t worried.

After four hours, I applied the second coat of white paint.  It definitely looked better, but there were still spots where dark granite was shadowing through, or divots in the granite didn’t get filled.

Because of that, I applied a third coat of white primer the next morning.  The instructions say you only need two coats, but I definitely needed three coats of primer for my dark granite.  After three coats of white primer, all of the dark granite was covered.

Step 3 for painting a granite countertop: VEINING

After the third coat of primer dried for four hours, I decided to try some veining to give my painted countertop a true marble look! 

I watched the Giani video again and used the techniques shared there to create what I think are very authentic-looking marble veins with one of their second-step gray countertop paints!

I made sure not to add too many painted marble veins, as I did not want to have the countertop be too busy.

Step 4 for painting a granite countertop: SEAL WITH EPOXY

This final step was the scariest in the entire countertop painting process: sealing the painted countertop with epoxy freaked me out!  I had never worked with epoxy, so I wasn’t totally sure what to expect.  But I put on my game face and got to work.

I mixed up the epoxy (with the activator) per the instructions and poured it onto the countertop.  I used the roller with 1/4″ nap as recommended, but if I were you, I would use a foam roller instead.  The 1/4″ nap roller left lint everywhere! 

I had to get as much out of the epoxy as I could with tweezers, but there was too much to remove before the epoxy set up (in about 30 minutes).  You would not have a lint problem of this magnitude if you use a foam roller!

As a result of my roller problems, there are visible lint bubbles in my finish.  I may be sensitive to them and others may not really notice them, but they are definitely there and mar the finish, in my opinion.  

Aside from this, the epoxy is what transforms the painted countertop from looking, well, painted, to looking like a shiny, marble finish.  Painted countertops with epoxy sealers are durable and the best looking painted countertops out there.  I’m not saying it looks identical to marble, I am just saying that the epoxy elevates the finish in a way that paint alone cannot.

Step Five for Countertop Painting: CAULK

Prior to using the countertops, I added a line of clear acrylic caulk around the countertop and the backsplash to help seal the edges.  After two days we were able to use our bathroom again.

Again, I painted a granite countertop to look like marble.  It’s not perfect, but it’s a definite improvement.  The Giani Marble Countertop Paint Kit or paint products enclosed in the kit, along with the company’s awesome video tutorial, make the marble countertop look accessible to all.  

If you’re on a budget or don’t want to deal with getting countertops replaced, I recommend using the Giani paints and epoxy to paint a countertop to look like marble. 

Make sure your expectations are realistic, watch their video, and read others’ reviews of the products on Amazon, as all of these things will help you get the best finish possible!

I, for one, am very happy with the look of my painted countertop, and I’m glad I took a chance in painting it instead of replacing it! Make sure to see how these countertops have held up over the past two years!

If you want to change the color of a stone or rock fireplace or wall, try limewash! This post shows how to limewash stone fireplace to retain a natural look.

Last September I announced that we were moving from our beloved home outside of Chicago to the Milwaukee suburbs.  On December 21 we moved in to our new home, and since then, I have been busy unpacking and trying to make this house feel like our home! 

I tackled my first big project, which was a makeover of our massive 1970s fireplace, and I am thrilled to share my limewash stone fireplace makeover with you now! 

(Update: I subsequently finished my limewash stone exterior makeover, too!  Be sure to check it out!)

Before I show you all the pretty “after” makeover fireplace photos, I have to show you the beast I was working with!  Complete with a wide variety of orange rocks, this extra large fireplace really clashed with my living room decor.

This post contains affiliate links.  Please read my disclosure policy for more information.

As much as I can, I like to work with what I’ve got, though, and I did not want to tear down this fireplace (can you imagine the dust and mess?!?), concrete over the rocks, or frame it out with wood and ruin the 70s vibe we’ve got going on here.  So, I did some research and decided to do a DIY stone fireplace makeover with Romabio brand limewash.

What is Limewash?

Sorry if you already know this, but I thought that some of you might be unfamiliar with limewash, so let me fill you in!  Basically, limewash is a heavily mineral-based paint that produces a very chalky and matte finish. 

The minerals seep into the porous surface to which the limewash is applied and give a really authentic and aged look.  It is VERY popular for painting bricks and other masonry, like stone!

There are several brands of limewash on the market, and apparently, you can even make your own!  I chose to use Romabio brand limewash because I follow the company on Instagram and love every makeover I see with their products, and because their limewash is affordably priced and comes in many colors.  I used the Riposo Beige shade for my limewash fireplace makeover.

Why Use Limewash on Stone and Brick Instead of Paint?

You might be wondering why I chose to limewash my stone fireplace instead of painting it . . .

Well, there are several reasons!

First, I like that limewash is removable within the first five days of application.  This made the project seem less risky to me.  Although it probably would have been messy and tedious to remove the finish if I didn’t like it, I felt good knowing that it wasn’t permanent if I hated it.

Next, I like that limewash has little to no odor, unlike many types of paint!  I did this project in January with no windows open, and there were no stinky fumes invading my house.

Third, I liked that the finished look was completely up to me in terms of how much of the original stone color I wanted to show through.  Simply by thinning the limewash with water, I would have been able to get a more translucent effect and would have allowed more of the natural stone color to show through.  This is perfectly fine with limewash and does not affect the durability of the product! 

In my case, I was trying to mask the orange tones, so I applied the limewash in a more opaque finish.  But had I wanted to, I could have allowed more of the stone color to show through.

All in, this project cost me just under $70, and that is because I had to buy things like painters tape, rags, and a protective tarp (since the ones I already had are still packed away from the move).  If you already have these items, your project cost will be less.

How to Limewash Stone

I think you won’t believe how easy it is to limewash a stone fireplace, or any rock surface!

Step One: Protect Surrounding Surfaces

First, make sure to protect surrounding surfaces with a tarp and painters tape.

Step Two: Clean the Stone or Rock

Next, clean the stone with a wet rag.  Make sure to get rid of any cobwebs hiding in between the rocks, and get the rocks wet (but not dripping wet).

Step Three: Wet the Rock or Stone

After the stone fireplace surround is clean, get out your water bottle and spray the rocks.  You want the rocks to be wet, but you don’t want water running down the rocks.

Step Four: Mix the Limewash

Now it’s time to mix up the limewash!  For this step, make sure to read the product instructions that come with the limewash you have purchased.

I chose to mix my quart of limewash with half the amount of water (so, 16 ounces in this case), and this resulted in a thicker cover of limewash. 

Remember to mix, mix, mix the product so that there is no extra water left at the top of the bucket, and so that everything is all mixed together.  This could take up to ten minutes because limewash is very thick to begin with!

Once the product is fully mixed, it’s time to apply the limewash to the fireplace. 

Step Five: Apply the Limewash

I started on the top left side and worked my way down the fireplace with the masonry brush.  I watched carefully to see when the limewash was almost dry (but not totally dry), and then began to wipe it off very lightly.

Doing this let some of the rock tones show through – but not too much!

I repeated this application/drying/wiping process across the front and couldn’t believe the immediate difference the limewash made!  I won’t lie – I did have a minor time of doubt as it was such a drastic difference, but I know that I always do that with any project, so I calmed down and kept working.

Step Six: Get the Nooks and Crannies

Once I finished the entire fireplace, I went back into the nooks and crannies I missed with the bulky masonry brush, and touched up those spots with a small paintbrush.  (If you’re working with a limewash solution that is more diluted than my mixture, this may not be an issue for you!)

I stood back and admired the look of my limewashed rock fireplace, and then noticed how awful the orange hearth looked against it.  I felt a pit in my stomach because I couldn’t let this orange hearth ruin this makeover! 

The limewash did not work on the marble hearth (I accidentally got some on the hearth, and it wiped right off even though it had dried), so I had to think of a different solution.

The good news is that I did come up with a way to paint my marble fireplace hearth, and the whole project came together gorgeously!  (Click that link if you want to learn how to paint a marble fireplace hearth, too!)

The Completed DIY Stone Fireplace Makeover

I know, I know – you want to see it!  Here is the completed fireplace makeover – it looks so different!

I cannot believe what I accomplished for under $70!

And in case you’re wondering why I didn’t paint the brass fireplace doors – it’s because I like them!  Brass is one of my favorite finishes.

Decor should be about what you like and not what others say you should do, so I am leaving them.  (For now, at least.  ;-)).

Final Thoughts and the Nitty Gritty on a Limewash Fireplace Makeover

In total, I spent just about 4.5 hours on this DIY stone fireplace makeover – from cleaning, to wetting the stone, to mixing the limewash, and applying the limewash.  Note that if your limewash solution takes longer to get to the “wipe off” phase, your project time could be longer.

It was TOTALLY worth it.  My living room is so much brighter, and my fireplace looks so much better.  I didn’t have to spend a ton of money to make it look fresh, and I am so thankful to have found out about limewash! 

I used an entire quart of limewash in the Riposo Beige shade for this fireplace and I didn’t have any left over. If you use Romabio Classico Limewash, they have helpful tools on their website that will let you figure out how much product you need for your specific project.  They say that generally, a quart is enough for a fireplace makeover.

The next step in this living room overhaul is to paint the wall surrounding the fireplace (it’s currently a gray/purple color), and then paint the built-ins and get rid of the mirrored backs!  UPDATE: I finished the mirrored built-ins makeover, and we replaced the carpeting with luxury vinyl plank flooring (you can read my luxury vinyl plank review here!) 

We would also like to have a mantel built for the fireplace, but it is surprisingly expensive (according to the one quote I’ve gotten), and my large round wood mirror gives the natural wood look we’re after – at least for now!

So, what do you think?  Was this 1970s stone fireplace makeover a success?  Let me know in the comments, and please share this post to Pinterest to help others learn how to limewash their fireplaces, too!  We stone fireplace people need to stick together!  🙂

And, if you’d like to see another DIY fireplace makeover I did, check out my DIY wood slat fireplace!  This is a total transformation of the 1970s brick fireplace in my bedroom, and it’s aaaaaa-maaaa-zing!