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Seven months.  SEVEN MONTHS! That’s how long my DIY Kitchen Makeover took from start to finish.

Last year I painted my oak kitchen cabinets and did a whole bunch of other stuff to update my 1990s oak kitchen (I’ll walk you down that memory lane later in this post). 

Once those projects were completed, I outsourced things like electrical, countertops, and tile work, serving as my own general contractor/project manager.  Also more on that later in this post.

But now the second phase of my kitchen remodel without a renovation is complete, and I am so glad this project is finished.  (*Almost complete.  More on that later, too!)

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

The Kitchen Before: Golden Oak Cabinets, Brown Countertops, and Glass Mosaic Tile Backsplash

Any good reveal post is incomplete without the before photos!  So let’s have a flashback to what this kitchen looked like when we purchased the home in late 2019.

The kitchen was in great condition, but it wasn’t really our style, so I set out to make it look more like us in the late summer of 2020.  I got a crazy idea to paint the kitchen tile backsplash to tone down the look.  The painted tile held up great and gave me the calmer look I was after.

Kitchen Makeover Part 1: Disguised Soffits, Converted Kitchen Desk, and Painted Oak Cabinets

Then, in the fall of 2020, things really got moving in my 1990s-style kitchen.  

Kitchen Soffit Makeover

First, my husband and I gave the kitchen soffit a makeover, and attempted to help blend the soffit with the cabinets by adding lots of trim to them.  You can read more about that project and how to disguise a kitchen soffit in the post I wrote about it.

Kitchen Desk Conversion to Trash

Then, we converted the kitchen desk area to pull-out trash, which was a better use of that space for our family.  

DIY Painted Cabinets

Once those projects were finished, I got to work painting the oak cabinets.  I painted, and painted, and painted.  It took me weeks of work because I only had a little bit of time each day to devote to the project, but I got it done.

I painted the cabinets Hampshire Taupe by Benjamin Moore, and you can read more about my process for painting oak cabinets in that post.

The first part of this DIY kitchen makeover made a huge difference in my family’s enjoyment of our home, and we were glad to celebrate Thanksgiving and Christmas in our refreshed kitchen!

Kitchen Makeover Part 2: New Electrical, New Tile Backsplash, and New Countertops

Once the New Year hit, it was time to get back to work on this kitchen makeover!  

Kitchen Remodel Electrical

First up, we had new LED recessed lighting installed in the ceiling, and we eliminated the large light fixture that once hung in an odd spot in the middle of the kitchen.  The recessed lighting added so much light to the kitchen – it was amazing!  The kitchen was very dark prior to this.

We also swapped the can light over the kitchen sink for a cute little semi-flushmount light.  I wanted this change for cosmetic purposes only.  Since I have recessed lighting throughout the rest of the kitchen, I wanted there to be a cute light fixture somewhere.  

Previously I added wireless under cabinet lighting (you can read about it in that post), and I still loved it so I didn’t feel like adding the expense of hardwired under cabinet lights.

Painted Tile Backsplash Removal

Once we started shopping for countertops, it became clear to us that we were also going to need to replace our tile backsplash.  The painted tile backsplash was holding up great, but it would be damaged during the countertop removal and installation process.

Because of that, it made sense to rip it out before the new countertops went in, and replace with a new backsplash once the countertops were installed.

We did the tile backsplash removal ourselves, and honestly – it was a horrible job.  It was such a mess!  I’m sure there are better ways to remove a backsplash, but we did the best we could.  

Once that was out, I hired drywall professionals to hang new drywall.  I’ve tried drywall in the past and it did not go well.  Ha!

Countertop Installation

At the beginning of March, our new quartz countertops, sink, and faucet were installed.  We chose MSI Blanca Statuarietto quartz because the creamy white shade with the subtle veining in browns, creams, and grays was perfect with the taupe cabinets.

We also chose quartz because of its reputation for durability and ease of care.  I will be writing a post on my experience with quartz countertops so far because I think there’s a lot of false or misleading information out there about this product.  I love the look of these countertops in my kitchen, but I feel a bit deceived.

New Tile Backsplash Installation

Finally, in mid-April we were able to get our new backsplash installed!  Since everyone in the world is renovating right now, it was hard to find a professional who could do this job for us in a reasonable timeframe!  Thankfully we found a great company and they did amazing work.

I chose a very simple and inexpensive white rhombus ceramic tile, which we laid in a chevron pattern.  The second I saw this tile I knew it was what I wanted!

The grout, on the other hand, was a totally different story.  I could not, for the life of me, make a decision.  Choosing between white grout, off-white grout, brown grout, and more was making my head spin!  Thankfully my mom came with me one day to pick something.  I chose Laticrete Permacolor grout in River Rock.  It is slightly darker than the cabinet color, and really helps that chevron pattern pop!

I was nervous to pick something that would stand out, but in the end, it’s what made me happy so I went with it. I’m really glad I did because it gives my kitchen a little personality and doesn’t look like everything else on Pinterest.

DIY Kitchen Makeover Reveal

It feels so good to finally be FINISHED with this DIY kitchen makeover! 

Doing the work yourself and finding/managing professionals to help you with the parts you can’t (or don’t want to) do yourself is a lot!

We have one issue left to resolve surrounding some scratches on our new quartz countertops, but once that’s taken care of with the installer, I will be glad to consider this project totally done!

I hope this project shows you that you can update spaces in your home without a gut renovation. 

It may take you a lot of time, but you’ll get there eventually!  And when you do, you’ll be very proud of yourself!  And . . . you will have saved yourself a lot of money over a gut renovation or hiring out all of the steps.

Please let me know what you think of this makeover, and also let me know if you have any questions at all!  I’m always glad to help.

Our house had a vibrant orange front door, which I actually loved.  But when we repainted the exterior this summer, the orange door wasn’t right.  I decided I wanted a wood front door to coordinate with our wood-look garage door and wood-accent exterior lights, but I did not want to strip and restain the door: too messy!  I became determined to figure out how to paint a door to look like wood so that I could get the wood look without all of the hassle.

FULL DISCLOSURE: I totally messed this up at first!  Because of my mistakes, I probably did not save myself any time and could’ve stripped and re-stained in the same amount of time.  That being said, I perfected the faux wood finish technique and can now share it with you, so it isn’t a total loss!

How NOT To Paint a Door to Look Like Wood (My Mistakes!)

Before we get to the good stuff and how to really achieve a convincing faux wood finish, I HAVE to show you how badly I messed this up the first time around.  I was trying to get a wood finish with orange undertones . . . 

So I applied two coats of gel stain right over the orange paint.  And it was awful – so bad that I could only laugh about how horrible it was! 

Can you believe this?  It was embarrassing to even close the door for anyone passing by to see.  Ha!

OK so take it from me – you cannot paint a door to look like wood with orange paint.  Not gonna work!

How to Paint a Door to Look Like Wood

Now that we’ve gotten THAT out of the way, let me show you how I redeemed myself and actually painted my door to look like wood!  You can read my step-by-step tutorial in this post and watch the video I’ve put together that shows you how this all went down!

Supplies Needed to Paint a Door to Look Like Wood

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

• Flat latex paint in a shade of brown
• Gel stain in the color of your choice (I used this brand and color)
• Varathane Ultimate Spar Urethane
• Stain pads
• 1.5″ or 2″ angled paint brush
• Small artist brushes
• 3″ chip brushes
• Painters tape
• Cardstock or cardboard with a straight edge
• Drop Cloth
• Sandpaper
• **May need primer if your door has never been painted

Step One: Sand and Tape Off Hardware or Remove Hardware

Before you start, make sure to protect your door hardware with painters tape, or to remove it.  

You’ll also want to spread a drop cloth underneath the door to protect surrounding surfaces and the floor beneath.

Then, lightly sand the door to remove any glossy surfaces, and wipe the door clean.

Step Two: Paint the Door Brown

OK so after my orange paint plus gel stain disaster pictured above, I realized that the gel stain wasn’t the problem; the orange paint was.  I went to my basement and found a gallon of flat latex paint in a soft brown shade.  It was left by the previous homeowners and I considered it a gift from God.

I painted over all of my ugly orange mess with the flat latex paint. 

Even my dog looks sad in this photo. 

Thank goodness that ugliness was gone!

**If you’re painting a door that has never been painted, make sure to prime it first!

Step Three: Apply a Coat of Gel Stain to the Entire Door

Once the paint dried, I started applying gel stain right over the paint.  I began by using a 1″ foam brush to spread the gel stain but quickly switched to a stain pad, as it was much easier to get it in all the nooks and crannies.  (Make sure to read my post on The Best Gel Stain Tips and Tricks, too.  It will help you have better success with gel stain!)

For the tight corners I used artist paintbrushes to spread the gel stain. 

Once the whole door was covered in gel stain, I let it sit overnight to dry. It already looked better than it ever did with the orange base color, but it still wasn’t great.

Step Four: Apply a Second Coat of Gel Stain

Here’s where the magic starts to happen.  For this next step, I worked rectangle by rectangle, and then row by row, and then column by column, to create the look of wood grain with gel stain.

I will show you how I did this in a rectangle part of the door.  I started by applying a coat of gel stain in a rectangle with my stain pad, and I got into the corners with the artist brush. 

Then, I took the 3 inch chip brush, and I gently ran it over the flat part of the rectangle, from bottom to top, to remove some of the gel stain and to add a woodgrain pattern to the door. 

I varied how I moved the brush: in some rectangles it was straight down to up, and in others I did a little bit of a curve as you see in woodgrain sometimes. 

I did this “apply gel stain and then remove some of it” process all across the door.  I used thick card stock at the edges of each row or column to create a barrier between the edges of each section, since the woodgrain travels in different directions in these different pieces.  This made the junctions crisp, just like a regular wood door. 

Here you can see the second coat of gel stain and woodgraining process on the entire door, except the outer columns.  The second coat of gel stain is necessary for getting a wood look finish!

Step Five: Seal the Door to Protect the Faux Wood Finish

After I applied the second coat of gel stain to the entire door, I let it sit overnight so that it could totally dry.  Then, I applied three coats of this sealer to the door throughout the course of one day (no sanding in between coats needed).

I let the door dry for the time recommended on the sealer, and in the end, I succeeded at painting my door to look like wood!

It’s hard to believe I was able to fix that disaster I created the first go-round!  

Check Out Other DIY Door Projects You Might Like!

• Easy Flat Panel Door Makeover
• How to Refinish a Stained Door with Gel Stain

Questions About Painting a Door to Look Like Wood

I feel like there will be some questions about this process, so I’m trying to anticipate them!

Does this process work on metal doors or fiberglass doors?

Yes!  Although my door is wood, you can use the exact same process and products to paint your metal door to look like wood, or to finish your fiberglass to look like wood.  Awesome!

Can you use this process to paint a garage door to look like wood?

Yes!  This exact same process will work to paint a garage door to look like wood.

Can I use gel stain to refinish a wood door that hasn’t been painted?

Yes!  You can, and I’ve done it before! Check out my post on refinishing an exterior door with gel stain for all of the info you’ll need.

Any other questions?  Ask them in the comments section and I will do my best to answer them!

-Bre

Last September I announced that we were moving from our beloved home outside of Chicago to the Milwaukee suburbs.  On December 21 we moved in to our new home, and since then, I have been busy unpacking and trying to make this house feel like our home!  I tackled my first big project, which was a makeover of our massive 1970s fireplace, and I am thrilled to share my limewash stone fireplace makeover with you now!  (Update: I subsequently finished my limewash stone exterior makeover, too!  Be sure to check it out!)

Before I show you all the pretty “after” makeover fireplace photos, I have to show you the beast I was working with!  Complete with a wide variety of orange rocks, this extra large fireplace really clashed with my living room decor. 

As much as I can, I like to work with what I’ve got, though, and I did not want to tear down this fireplace (can you imagine the dust and mess?!?), concrete over the rocks, or frame it out with wood and ruin the 70s vibe we’ve got going on here.  So, I did some research and decided to do a DIY stone fireplace makeover with Romabio brand limewash.

What is Limewash?

Sorry if you already know this, but I thought that some of you might be unfamiliar with limewash, so let me fill you in!  Basically, limewash is a heavily mineral-based paint that produces a very chalky and matte finish.  The minerals seep into the porous surface to which the limewash is applied and give a really authentic and aged look.  It is VERY popular for painting bricks and other masonry, like stone!

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

There are several brands of limewash on the market, and apparently you can even make your own!  I chose to use Romabio brand limewash because I follow the company on Instagram and love every makeover I see with their products, and because their limewash is affordably priced and comes in many colors.  I used the Riposo Beige shade for my limewash fireplace makeover.

Why Use Limewash on Stone and Brick Instead of Paint?

You might be wondering why I chose to limewash my stone fireplace instead of painting it . . . 

Well, there are several reasons!

First, I like that limewash is removable within the first five days of application.  This made the project seem less risky to me.  Although it probably would have been messy and tedious to remove the finish if I didn’t like it, I felt good knowing that it wasn’t permanent if I hated it.

Next, I like that limewash has little to no odor, unlike many types of paint!  I did this project in January with no windows open, and there were no stinky fumes invading my house.

Third, I liked that the finished look was completely up to me in terms of how much of the original stone color I wanted to show through.  Simply by thinning the limewash with water, I would have been able to get a more translucent effect and would have allowed more of the natural stone color to show through.  This is perfectly fine with limewash and does not affect the durability of the product!  In my case, I was trying to mask the orange tones, so I applied the limewash in a more opaque finish.  But had I wanted to, I could have allowed more of the stone color to show through.

What Supplies Do You Need for a Limewash Stone Fireplace Makeover?

Now that you have a little more background on limewash, let me fill you in on the supplies you need to limewash a stone fireplace.  Surprisingly, it isn’t that much!

• Masonry brush
• Protective tarp
• Cleaning rags/towels
• Spray bottle with water
• Mixing bucket
• Stir stick
• Limewash (I used one quart of Riposo Beige for my fireplace)
• Painters tape
• Optional: smaller paintbrush to get in crevices and hard to reach areas

All in, this project cost me just under $70, and that is because I had to buy things like painters tape, rags, and a protective tarp (since the ones I already had are still packed away from the move).  If you already have these items, your project cost will be less.

How to Limewash a Stone Fireplace

I think you won’t believe how easy it is to limewash a stone fireplace!

First, make sure to protect surrounding surfaces with a tarp and painters tape. 

Next, clean the stone with a wet rag.  Make sure to get rid of any cobwebs hiding in between the rocks, and get the rocks wet (but not dripping wet).

 

After the stone fireplace surround is clean, get out your water bottle and spray the rocks.  You want the rocks to definitely be wet, but you don’t want water running down the rocks.

Now it’s time to mix up the limewash!  For this step, make sure to read the product instructions that come with the limewash you have purchased.

 

I chose to mix my quart of limewash with half the amount of water (so, 16 ounces in this case), and this resulted in a thicker cover of limewash.  Remember to mix, mix, mix the product so that there is no extra water left at the top of the bucket, and so that everything is all mixed together.  This could take up to ten minutes because limewash is very thick to begin with! 

Once the product is fully mixed, it’s time to apply the limewash to the fireplace.  I started on the top side and worked my way down.  I watched carefully to see when the limewash was almost dry (but not totally dry), and then began to wipe it off very lightly. 

Doing this let some of the rock tones show through – but not too much!

I repeated this application / drying / wiping process across the front and couldn’t believe the immediate difference the limewash made!  I won’t lie – I did have a minor time of doubt as it was such a drastic difference, but I know that I always do that with any project, so I calmed down and kept working. 

Once I finished the entire fireplace, I went back in to the nooks and crannies I missed with the bulky masonry brush, and touched up those spots with a small paintbrush.  (If you’re working with a limewash solution that is more diluted than my mixture, this may not be an issue for you!) 

I stood back and admired the look of my limewashed rock fireplace, and then noticed how awful the orange hearth looked against it.  I felt a pit in my stomach because I couldn’t let this orange hearth ruin this makeover!  The limewash did not work on the marble hearth (I accidentally got some on the hearth and it wiped right off even though it had dried), so I had to think of a different solution. 

The good news is that I did come up with a way to paint my marble fireplace hearth, and the whole project came together gorgeously!  (Click that link if you want to learn how to paint a marble fireplace hearth, too!)

 

The Completed DIY Stone Fireplace Makeover

I know, I know – you want to see it!  Here is the completed fireplace makeover – it looks so different! 

I cannot believe what I accomplished for under $70! 

And in case you’re wondering why I didn’t paint the brass fireplace doors – it’s because I like them!  Brass is one of my favorite finishes.

Decor should be about what you like and not what others say you should do, so I am leaving them.  (For now, at least.  ;-)). 

Final Thoughts and the Nitty Gritty on a Limewash Fireplace Makeover

In total, I spent just about 4.5 hours on this DIY stone fireplace makeover – from cleaning, to wetting the stone, to mixing the limewash, and applying the limewash.  Note that if your limewash solution takes longer to get to the “wipe off” phase, your project time could be longer.

It was TOTALLY worth it.  My living room is so much brighter, and my fireplace looks so much better.  I didn’t have to spend a ton of money to make it look fresh, and I am so thankful to have found out about limewash! 

I used an entire quart of limewash in the Riposo Beige shade for this fireplace and I didn’t have any left over. If you use Romabio Classico Limewash, they have helpful tools on their website that will let you figure out how much product you need for your specific project.  They say that generally, a quart is enough for a fireplace makeover.

The next step in this living room overhaul is to paint the wall surrounding the fireplace (it’s currently a gray/purple color), and then paint the built-ins and get rid of the mirrored backs!  UPDATE: I finished the mirrored built-ins makeover, and we replaced the carpeting with luxury vinyl plank flooring (you can read my luxury vinyl plank review here!)  We would also like to have a mantel built for the fireplace, but it is surprisingly expensive (according to the one quote I’ve gotten), and my large round wood mirror gives the natural wood look we’re after – at least for now!  

So, what do you think?  Was this 1970s stone fireplace makeover a success?  Let me know in the comments and please share this post to Pinterest to help others learn how to limewash their fireplaces, too!  Us stone fireplace people need to stick together!  🙂

 

-Bre

One of the most rewarding DIY projects my husband and I have completed is building a fire pit in our family’s tiny backyard.  Spending time together relaxing, roasting marshmallows, and eating way too many s’mores is the perfect way to enjoy the yard.  It was not a difficult project, and I can’t wait to show you how to build a backyard fire pit of your own!

Supplies Needed to Build a Backyard Fire Pit

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

Fire Pit Supplies:

• 36″ Galvanized Metal Fire Ring
• Landscape bricks (we used approximately 65 3″ x 8.2″ Mini Flagstone Wall bricks from Lowes)
• DAP DynaGrip Adhesive
• Caulk Gun
• Paver base
• Paver sand
• Pea gravel

Tools:

• Tamper
• Level (long length)
• Hammer
• Mallet
• Chalk
• Knife

Optional:

• Landscape Weed Barrier Fabric
• Netting Staples

How to Build a Fire Pit in Your Backyard

Before Building a Backyard Fire Pit – Things to Consider

Before you build a fire pit in your backyard, there are a few things to take into consideration.  The first is whether there are any buried cables in the area that you need to be careful of when digging. 

The second is if your city, town, village, whatever has any codes or regulations that will impact your project. 

And the third is whether your fire pit will negatively impact any neighbors (smoke sensitivities, etc.).  Think about all of this before beginning work to ensure a happy fire pit experience!

Phase One: Clear the Land

Once you have those things figured out, the first step in all of this is to clear out the area where you’re placing the fire pit.  As you can see from this picture, we had a lot of plants (namely, giant hosta, which are difficult to remove), to clear.  

Once the plants were removed, we got to work raking up the area and getting the ground level.  The kids got involved in this part of the project, which was fun!  

We used our level to make sure we got the ground as flat and as even as we could, and then we laid down the landscape weed barrier fabric to prevent vegetation (like those darn hosta), from growing up around our eventual fire pit.  

Next, we figured out where we wanted the fire pit, and used chalk to make a circle several inches wider than the galvanized fire ring.  Then we cut that circle out of the landscape barrier.  

You might be wondering why we used a galvanized fire ring in our fire pit construction, when many other fire pit tutorials do not use one.  The main reason is that we wanted our fire pit to be extra durable, and also for the landscape bricks not to get charred by the flames. 

One other benefit of using the fire ring is that you can purchase accessories, like grill grates and fire pit screens, that fit perfectly over the fire ring. 

Finally, we also thought it made it easier to create a perfect circle with the landscape bricks.  While this added a little extra cost to the construction, it was worth it in our minds.

Phase Two: Preparing the Ground for Landscape Bricks

The next step was to fill in the circle with paver base.  Once that was poured, my husband got to work with the tamper, pounding it down and getting a level surface that was slightly lower than the surrounding ground.

Next, we poured paver sand around the perimeter of the circle – so where the galvanized fire ring and the landscape bricks would sit.  We again used the tamper to make that paver sand flat.

Then we placed the galvanized fire ring into the paver sand, using a mallet to pound it into the paver sand, paver base, and ground ever so slightly, and we laid our first row of landscape bricks around the fire ring. 

NOTE: it’s important to leave a space of about 2.5″ between the fire ring and the landscape bricks because if you place the landscape bricks right against the ring, by the time you get to the top row of landscape bricks, they will be too close to the fire ring and will be jutting out farther than your base row of bricks.  You will have to disassemble and start over. 

(Prior to gluing our bricks together, we stacked all four rows to see how this would work, and it didn’t!  That’s how we knew to put that space between the fire ring and the landscape bricks at the bottom.)

Once the first row of landscape bricks was laid, it was time to move onto the next row.  We used DAP DynaGrip adhesive to hold our bricks together.  We simply applied it to the stones and pressed them down, making sure to stagger them rather than laying them directly one on top of the other.  

We repeated this process two more times, making our fire pit four rows of landscape bricks high.  Note that once the landscaping went in, the first row of bricks was essentially “underground.”  

We added inexpensive pea gravel inside the fire pit, and with that, our backyard fire pit was complete!

Over the following weeks, I spent time landscaping around the area to make it look nicer. 

This project took us about 8 hours to complete, and that included ripping out all the pre-existing landscape and running to Home Depot a few times for extra supplies. 

At the end of the day I can honestly say that if you’ve ever thought about adding a fire pit to your backyard, you should go for it!  It brings a huge element of fun to your outdoor space and is a wonderful memory maker for your family and friends.  

I’d appreciate it if you’d pin this post to help others find out how to build a backyard fire pit!  

Once you’ve done that, come over and roast a marshmallow with me!  🙂

-Bre