Over the years I’ve used gel stain on many home maintenance and furniture makeover projects, and I’ve learned a lot!  Gel stain is an amazing tool for reviving wood, but it can be tricky to use if you’re not prepared.  Because of that, I am sharing my most helpful gel stain tips and tricks that will make a difference in the quality of your gel stain projects.

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.

What is Gel Stain?

Since you’re visiting this post, you probably already know what gel stain is.  But, just in case you don’t, gel stain is a thick stain that sits on top of the wood finish instead of penetrating the wood like regular stain does.

It is awesome to use on previously-stained wood, as it allows you to change the color of the wood and refinish it without stripping it to bare wood.  For example, at my old house, I refinished my front door with gel stain, and in my new house, I’ve refinished stair railings, stair treads, and a china cabinet top.

Gel stain can also be used on raw wood or unfinished wood, but you’ll need to take some extra steps, which I’ll fill you in on below!

Why Use Gel Stain?

In my opinion, the main reason why you would use gel stain instead of traditional stain is if you’re changing the color of wood that’s previously been stained.  It is easy to re-stain wood with gel stain, but requires a lot more work to re-stain wood with traditional penetrating wood stain.

If you are staining raw wood, I personally would use penetrating stain as it is less expensive than gel stain and gives a better finish on raw wood than gel stain. I personally do not like how dark gel stain looks on raw wood.

Gel Stain Tips and Tricks

OK, enough of the background info!  Let’s get down to the best gel stain tips and tricks, which I’ve compiled over the last several years of working with gel stain on various projects.

Wear gloves while working with gel stain.

You do not want to get gel stain on your hands.  I repeat, you do not want to get gel stain on your hands!  It is sticky and difficult to get off of your skin.  Because of that, make sure to wear rubber gloves or disposable latex gloves while applying gel stain!  

What is the best way to apply gel stain?

For large swaths of wood (like a tabletop), I like to use stain pads to apply gel stain.  Stain pads allow you to cover a large area of wood while maintaining a lot of control over the application.

For smaller areas, foam brushes are my gel stain applicator of choice.  Foam brushes are great because they’re disposable, and gel stained brushes are a mess I personally would not want to clean up.  Foam brushes also apply gel stain evenly and don’t leave brushstrokes in the finish.

How long do I leave gel stain on before wiping off excess?

Make sure to read the directions on the gel stain can, as it will tell you how long to leave on the gel stain before wiping off.

Generally, I wait around 3 minutes before wiping off.

If you wipe off too soon, you will not see a difference in wood color.

If you wait too long to wipe off, the gel stain will start to dry and will become very difficult to remove.

How do I get the right shade or color of gel stain?

Generally speaking, it is MUCH easier to use gel stain to achieve a darker wood color on a previously finished piece of wood than it is to get a lighter color.

Layering coats of gel stain (per manufacturer directions), will result in a more opaque finish that is darker and shows less of the woodgrain.  This type of finish looks more like paint than stain.

Also, you can layer different colors of gel stain, or mix different colors of gel stain, to achieve custom shades.  This is especially useful if you’re trying to color match an existing wood tone.

How do I fix areas of gel stain that have dried too quickly?

If you have gel stain that has started to get tacky before you were able to wipe it off, dip a rag in mineral spirits and apply a little bit to the problem area.  The excess gel stain should come up easily.  Once the area has dried, recoat with gel stain and wipe off within the proper timeframe.

Be careful not to apply gel stain to areas where the gel stain was not removed with mineral spirits or you will create an uneven finish.

If the gel stain has totally dried, sand it off and start the process over again.

Do I need to sand before applying gel stain?

For previously finished wood, yes, you need to sand before applying gel stain.  Generally, you need to sand enough to scuff up the existing finish and make the surface even.  You DO NOT need to sand down to bare wood.  This is what makes using gel stain an advantage on previously finished wood.

For raw wood, yes, you also need to sand before applying gel stain.  This will open up the grain and allow the gel stain to create an even richer and more even color.

Do I need to use Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner with Gel Stain?

If you’re applying gel stain to previously stained wood, you probably do not need to use pre-stain wood conditioner.  You may consider it if your wood piece, once sanded, seems uneven or damaged.  The wood conditioner will not hurt anything but can only help.

If you’re applying gel stain to raw wood, you absolutely need to use pre-stain wood conditioner!  Pre-stain conditioner helps prevent blotchy absorption and/or patchy spots in your finish.  As I said earlier, I wouldn’t use gel stain on raw wood, but if you are doing it for some reason, make sure to use a pre-stain conditioner first!

Should I seal or topcoat gel stain?

Yes! You should definitely seal or topcoat gel stain projects.

Once dry, gel stain has a naturally “glossed” look, which may lead some to believe it does not need to have a topcoat applied.  However, it really must be protected with polyurethane or some other “tough coat” or “performance topcoat,” in order to give it the protection it needs.  

I like to use fast-drying polyurethane or this performance topcoat for indoor surfaces, and Spar Urethane for outdoor surfaces like doors.

***

Those are my top gel stain tips and tricks, and I hope they help you achieve a finish that you love!  Let me know if you have any to add.  I’d love to hear from you in the comments below!

-Bre

I LOVE a good home transformation experiment, and today’s post showcases an amazing one!  I’m going to show you how to paint a countertop to look like marble.  I painted my dated granite countertop in my powder room and I achieved a convincing marble finish!  And guess what?  You can, too!

Before we dive in, let me show you what I was working with in my powder room.  Dated oak vanity, busy tile wall backsplash, and a dark and dated granite countertop that was REALLY busy with that crazy tile wall.

On a whim one day, I decided to paint the vanity with paint I purchased as a possibility for my painted marble fireplace hearth.  I didn’t end up using that color for the hearth, but I’m glad I saved the paint because it worked great in this bathroom.  New paint and new hardware on the vanity (as well as on the baseboards and mirror), helped spiff up this bathroom, but the countertop still really bugged me.

We will be replacing our kitchen countertops in the near future, and I planned to replace this bathroom countertop at that time as well.  Since I had that already in mind, I decided to try painting my granite countertop first, just to see if and how it would work.  I figured that if it looked good, I’d save myself some money, and if it looked bad, I will have only wasted around $80.

Although the countertop is not perfect, it turned out MUCH BETTER than I expected!  

How to Paint a Countertop to Look Like Marble

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, click here.

Because I painted a granite countertop, some of my prep work may have been different than will be required for those painting countertops made of different materials.  In my experience, I believe that the key to painting a granite countertop is in the prep work and in the sealer.  Because of that, it’s important to pay special attention to these steps!

I began by researching the Giani Marble Countertop Finish Kit, which includes everything you need to paint your countertops to look like marble.  Giani, the manufacturer of this kit, has an awesome video about the painting process, and this video really got me intrigued.

I quickly realized that the Marble Countertop Painting Kit contained enough product to paint a kitchen’s worth of countertops, and that I didn’t need nearly that amount of paint or product.  So, I figured out what I wanted and purchased the following items separately:

• Xylene (this is a MUST HAVE when painting granite)
• Rubbing alcohol (also a MUST HAVE when painting granite)
• Step 1 white primer paint
• Step 2 gray paint for veining
• Step 3 epoxy sealer
• 2″ foam brush
• 1/4″ nap roller
• Small artist’s brush
• 2″ brush
• Roller tray
• Painter’s tape
• Painter’s tarp
• Clear acrylic caulk
• Rubber gloves

I got all of my supplies for under $100, which was less than the price of the kit. (Note that the kit does not include Xylene.)

Step 1 for painting a granite countertop: PREP and CLEAN

I started by cleaning the countertop and then wiping it down with Xylene, which smells AWFUL.  Make sure to open a window while using this solution.  After the Xylene dried, I wiped it down with rubbing alcohol, per the instructions online.

Then I placed painter’s tape around the edge of the countertop and covered the vanity with a tarp.  

Step 2 for painting a countertop to look like marble: PRIME

Next, I primed the entire countertop with the white paint.  After one coat it looked pretty streaky, but the video warned that this would be the case so I wasn’t worried.

After four hours, I applied the second coat of primer.  It definitely looked better, but there were still spots where dark granite was shadowing through, or divots in the granite didn’t get filled.

Because of that, I applied a third coat of white primer the next morning.  The instructions say you only need two coats, but I definitely needed three coats of primer for my dark granite.  After three coats of white primer, all of the dark granite was covered.

Step 3 for painting a granite countertop: VEINING

After third coat of primer dried for four hours, I decided to try some veining to give my painted countertop a true marble look! 

I watched the Giani video again and used the techniques shared there to create what I think are very authentic-looking marble veins!

I made sure not to add to many painted marble veins, as I did not want to have the countertop be too busy.

Step 4 for painting a granite countertop: SEAL WITH EPOXY

This final step was the scariest in the entire countertop painting process: sealing the painted countertop with epoxy freaked me out!  I had never worked with epoxy, so I wasn’t totally sure what to expect.  But, I put on my game face and got to work.

I mixed up the epoxy per the instructions and poured it onto the countertop.  I used the roller with 1/4″ nap as recommended, but if I were you, I would use a foam roller instead.  The 1/4″ nap roller left lint everywhere!  I had to get as much out of the epoxy as I could with tweezers, but there was too much to remove before the epoxy set up (in about 30 minutes).  You would not have a lint problem of this magnitude if you use a foam roller!

As a result of my roller problems, there are visible lint bubbles in my finish.  I may be sensitive to them and others may not really notice them, but they are definitely there and mar the finish, in my opinion.  

Aside from this, the epoxy is what transforms the painted countertop from looking, well, painted, to looking like a shiny, marble finish.  Painted countertops with epoxy sealers are durable and the best looking painted countertops out there.  I’m not saying it looks identical to marble, I am just saying that the epoxy elevates the finish in a way that paint alone cannot.

Prior to using the countertops, I added a line of clear acrylic caulk around the countertop and the backsplash to help seal the edges.  After two days we were able to use our bathroom again.

Again, I painted a granite countertop to look like marble.  It’s not perfect, but it’s a definite improvement.  The Giani Marble Countertop Paint Kit or paint products enclosed in the kit, along with the company’s awesome video tutorial, make the marble countertop look accessible to all.  

If you’re on a budget or don’t want to deal with getting countertops replaced, I recommend using the Giani paints and epoxy to paint a countertop to look like marble.  Make sure your expectations are realistic, watch their video, and read others’ reviews of the products on Amazon, as all of these things will help you get the best finish possible!

I, for one, am very happy with the look of my painted countertop, and I’m glad I took a chance in painting it instead of replacing it!

-Bre

Last month we installed Tranquility 5mm Copper Ridge Oak luxury vinyl plank flooring from Lumber Liquidators in our living room and basement.  We replaced white carpeting in the living room and some composite flooring in the basement that had been damaged when our furnace leaked. 

Because vinyl plank is increasingly becoming a popular flooring choice, I thought this review post would help with some of the luxury vinyl plank pros and cons, and help you decide if this flooring is right for your home!

What is Luxury Vinyl Plank?

In a nutshell, luxury vinyl plank is manufactured flooring that is meant to mimic the look of hardwood floors.  It is totally manmade – there’s nothing “wood” about it.  Unlike vinyl flooring of the past, luxury vinyl plank comes in, well, planks as opposed to sheets.  Sometimes it has some texture to it, in an effort to give it more of a hardwood look.

The “luxury” part of this product name is a little misleading, in my opinion.  I don’t really think this flooring is luxurious.  I mean, it’s not glistening marble or anything like that.  That’s just my two cents.  🙂

Why We Chose Luxury Vinyl Plank for Our Home

The completely honest answer to this question is that we chose luxury vinyl plank flooring because the previous owners installed Copper Ridge Oak vinyl plank flooring throughout the rest of the first floor (just not the living room), two months before we purchased the house.  

We wanted cohesive flooring on the first floor since it’s a fairly open floorplan, but we did NOT want to spend money on new floors for the entire first floor.  Because of that, we opted to install the same vinyl plank flooring in the living room.  And, since we also needed to replace the basement flooring, we ran it down there, too.

What are luxury vinyl plank pros and cons?

In the time that I’ve been living with these floors, I’ve been keeping a list of luxury vinyl plank pros and cons so that I could write the most helpful post possible!  As things come to mind, I will update this post, too, so that it continues to be informative.

The Positives of Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

There are a lot of positives with luxury vinyl plank flooring!  Just because I am not totally head over heels in love with it doesn’t mean that I don’t recognize its benefits.  Here are what I think are the pros of luxury vinyl plank flooring.

The Price is Right (at least for the product)

We got our 5mm Copper Ridge Oak luxury vinyl plank flooring on sale for $1.99 per square foot.  That is a really good price for flooring!  Even with the added expense of underlayment and other necessary pieces (like trim pieces, threshold pieces, etc.), the price of the flooring was great. 

Carpet, tile, and hardwood ALL can run more expensive than that!

Remember to investigate the quality of the vinyl plank before purchasing.  Of course there are poor vinyl planks on the market and you don’t want to make that mistake!  We got ours on a great sale, so if you’re able to wait until the floor you want goes on sale, too, you can really save a lot.

If you’re hiring an installer to do your floors, prepare yourself that you’ll probably pay as much for installation as you do for the floor – or even more!  One installer quoted us an astronomical amount, and the installer we ultimately used was much more reasonable.  But, installation was still a large part of the money spent on this job.

Luxury Vinyl Plank Installation is Fast

Let’s be honest.  Laying new flooring is pretty disruptive to your life because you have to move everything out of the space where the flooring is being installed, and you may not be able to use the space again for some time (like if stain or grout is drying).

One amazing attribute of luxury vinyl plank flooring is that installation is fast.  For our installer to complete approximately 1200 square feet of space, it took 4.5 days – and that includes removal of the old flooring and baseboards, and installing the flooring underlayment for our click-and-lock flooring. 

The parts that took the longest were making cuts for all of the doors in the basement and undercutting the large stone fireplace that I limewashed in the living room.  (He undercut the stone so that the flooring could slide right underneath and have a seamless transition between stone and floor.)

Of course, installation time can vary depending on factors such as type of vinyl plank (is it click-and-lock or glue down?), whether subfloor needs to be replaced, amount of area being covered, and more!  But, in general, installation of luxury vinyl plank should take less time than installation of other flooring types.

Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring is Durable

With young kids and a dog, durable flooring is important to me!  The white carpeting in the living room started showing signs of wear practically the second we took ownership of this home.  I am so glad it’s gone!

Also, the Tranquility brand Copper Ridge Oak flooring that we chose is 100% waterproof, which is amazing for our basement especially.  Hello – we already had a water issue down there!  It’s nice to have peace of mind that if we have another problem down there our flooring won’t be ruined.

Not all luxury vinyl plank is waterproof; some is water resistant.  That means that for a certain amount of time (usually a set amount of hours), the flooring will be okay with water on it, but after that time it could be ruined.  It seems to me that if you’re going to install luxury vinyl plank, you might as well get a waterproof type!

Another thing we love about our new flooring is that it is extremely difficult to scratch – much unlike hardwoods!  (I know all about scratches in hardwood floors! We had a ton and I even wrote a post on the easiest way to fix scratches in hardwood floors.)  We’ve slid furniture across it, my kids do all their crazy kid stuff on it, and my dog runs around like a madman, and it doesn’t show a single scratch.  

Luxury vinyl plank’s durability is, in my opinion, the best thing going for it.  If you want flooring that you can install and not think about again for at least 25 years, luxury vinyl plank is a great choice for you.

The Flooring is Very Warm

One luxury vinyl plank pro that I never expected is that the flooring is very warm to the touch.  It is so comfortable to walk on and does not ever seem to get cold.  Our hardwoods in our old house were cold all winter, and don’t even get me started on how cold the tile floor was!  That is not the case with our new vinyl flooring.

Vinyl Plank Flooring is Easy to Clean

This stuff could not be easier to clean!  I use my dry Swiffer on it regularly to gather up all those dust bunnies, and then I mop with Murphy’s Oil Soap once in a while.

Swiffer WetJet also works, as does liquid cleaner made just for vinyl floors.  

I haven’t noticed any film on my flooring like I would get on my hardwoods sometimes after cleaning, so I’m liking how easy these are to maintain!

The Negatives of Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

While there are a lot of positives associated with luxury vinyl plank flooring, there are also some definite negatives.  These are the drawbacks that I’ve noticed so far.

Luxury Vinyl Plank Can’t be Refinished

Unlike hardwood floors, when luxury vinyl plank is worn out, it can’t be refinished.  You just have to rip it out and start over again. 

While this is definitely a drawback of the flooring, the same thing is true for carpeting and tile, so it’s not a unique drawback by any stretch.  It’s just something to keep in mind when weighing your options.

Renovating Can Cause Problems

Unlike hardwoods that can always be replaced and filled in when needed, the style of luxury vinyl plank you choose can be available one day and then gone the next.

This is EXACTLY what happened in our house!  The previous owners installed Tranquility Copper Ridge Oak flooring in October 2019.  In January 2020 we went to purchase that same flooring to run it into the living room, and we found out that the style the previous owners installed had been discontinued, and replaced with a new style that was not compatible with the old style (in terms of click and lock mechanism).  

Luckily the areas are separated by a couple of stairs, so we didn’t need the floors to physically connect.  However, when we had the newer Copper Ridge Oak flooring installed, we noticed that it is slightly darker than last year’s version and the planks are slightly wider.  

These slight differences drive me nuts!  

Plus, we would like to renovate the kitchen and mudroom at some point, but we realize that doing so will have a huge impact on the flooring.  We won’t be able to replace the flooring with the same flooring that’s already there (since it’s not available), and because the flooring seamlessly flows from room to room, we will have to install threshold pieces in some strange spots.

The Repeat in Patterns Looks Cheap

This may be my overly-analytical tendencies talking here, but I really don’t like how I can pick out repeat patterns in the luxury vinyl plank floors.  In our basement there’s one spot where two identical planks are very close to each other, and the matching “knots” in the wood stick out like a sore thumb to me!

If you’re installing the flooring yourself, you will probably pay attention to that type of detail, but an installer who is working quickly to get the job done likely will not.  

It’s not a dealbreaker, but it is a giveaway that your flooring is vinyl.  That’s all I’m trying to get across here.

Luxury Vinyl Plank Stairs Can be Tricky!

WHO KNEW?  But seriously – if you have stairs that need luxury vinyl plank, choose carefully!

Some vinyl planks have coordinating vinyl plank stair treads and/or risers that match the vinyl plank flooring being put down.  This gives you a cohesive look that is (from what they tell me) durable.

Some vinyl plank varieties do not have any stair products, however, so you either have to lay vinyl plank flooring on the treads and use stair nose pieces to cover the edges (HELLO TRIP HAZARD and unpleasant look), or you have to try and match stain to the vinyl flooring to finish wooden treads and risers.

The flooring we used has vinyl treads and risers, and we intended to use them on our stairs.  When the carpeting was removed, however, we realized that the treads were in good shape and we decided to stain them to “match” the floors. 

Getting a match was practically impossible and our stairs ended up slightly darker than the floors.  They’re not so dark that I’m willing to redo this project, however.  It does bother me that they’re not a precise match though!

All-in-all, luxury vinyl plank flooring seems like a good choice for people who want an alternative to carpet or tile, and who appreciate durability and low cost.  The drawbacks are definite drawbacks and could be dealbreakers for some people, so make sure to carefully consider whether vinyl plank floors are right for you!

If you have any thoughts on luxury vinyl plank pros and cons, I’d love to hear from you!  Please add a comment below and let me know what you think, or ask any questions and I will do my best to answer them!

-Bre

In my old house, you saw a beautiful staircase and arched doorways when you walked in the front door.  In my new house, you see a large wall and a 1970’s-style funky staircase with ugly carpeting.  Not exactly the best first impression.  (This is the photo from the real estate listing.  Yes, multiple people asked if we’d be negotiating for the stager’s “come in we are awesome” sign. :-))

Because of that, I needed to make the foyer feel more like “us” – not too serious but still put-together (most of the time).  On a whim I decided to paint a DIY accent wall to greet visitors to my home, and I think it turned out adorable!  I used trash (yes trash) and craft paint to paint this fun grid accent wall, and I can’t wait to show you how easy it was to add some style to my foyer!

So first off, let me remind you that I’m no stranger to the DIY accent wall.  A couple of years ago I added an adorable-but-subtle accent wall to my old home by putting up vinyl decals in a pattern to look like wallpaper.  I loved the burst of personality this added to a large blank wall, so I figured I would like something similar here.

What Supplies Do You Need to Paint an Accent Wall?

This post contains affiliate links.  To read my full disclosure policy, please click here.   

To paint this grid accent wall in my new home, I only needed a few supplies:

• Craft paint (I used DecoArt Multi-Surface paint in Cactus)
• Artist’s brush
• Bowl of water
• Pencil
• Laser level (note: you could use a regular level if you don’t have a laser level)
• Junk cardboard, foam, cardstock, poster board – anything with a little heft will do!

How Do You Paint a Grid Wall?

To begin, I fired up my laser level (which also came in handy for my vinyl decal accent wall!), and centered the red line cross on the wall I was going to paint.  When I had the red laser lines positioned where I wanted, I traced them onto the wall with a pencil.

Next, I grabbed a rectangular piece of foam padding that was in the box for my beautiful new rattan media console, and I held it parallel to the first vertical line that I’d drawn.  I traced along the edge of it, and brought it all the way down from ceiling to floor.  

I repeated this “hold the foam, trace the line” process until the entire wall was covered in perfectly-spaced vertical lines.  If you try this, you could use ANY rectangular piece of cardboard/foam/paper that has some heft to it, which will allow you to trace along the edge.  You’re not limited to trash foam from my media console – ha!

Then I did the same thing with the horizontal lines: I placed the foam parallel with the first horizontal line and traced along the edge; moving the foam from one side of the wall to the other.  

When this was finished, I had a pencil grid on the entire wall.  This part of the process took about 20 minutes tops.  So fast!

Next, I got out my craft paint stash and found this lovely shade of green craft paint. I used craft paint because I had it already and I didn’t want to go to the store.  🙂  Regular latex paint would also work perfectly!

 

I started by painting over the vertical pencil lines, making sure to vary the thickness of each stroke.  I intentionally wanted this DIY accent wall to be imperfect – no precise lines here!  

And then . . . you guessed it . . . I painted over the horizontal pencil lines . . . starting at the top and working my way down.  

This entire painting process took around 40 minutes.

With my DIY grid accent wall complete, I moved my new console table into place.  

And then I got to work on my favorite part: accessorizing!

I rounded up a vintage painting I scored for $15, some other vintage finds (including the wicker tray, brass bowl, and postal scale), some big box store scores from years past (including the sunburst mirrors, pitcher and lamp), and my FAVORITE item: a watercolor family portrait painted by my nine-year-old daughter!

How CUTE is this little spot (and the doggie)???

Let’s do a quick recap: for $0 and an hour of time, I painted the cutest DIY accent wall in a fresh grid pattern.  Not bad, right?

If grids aren’t your thing, maybe you could try something different.  Perhaps a brushstroke accent wall, imperfect polka dot accent wall, crosses – whatever!  The point is that with no skill and no money (or very little money), you can add personality to your home.  So be encouraged and go get it done!  🙂

-Bre